ROFIS - abbreviation of "roof iris", the English translation of the Chinese word for rainbow. ROFIS is a newer manufacturer on the scene, and they released a few smaller lights before now that got a little attention. Now it seems they're making a move into the realm of more powerful lighting, and taking a bold step in with a very unique style, in keeping with their choice name. The TR51 is at first glance obviously different from the normal flashlight, and proves to be distinct in performance as well.
Thanks to Jason at Sbflashlights for lending the TR51 for review.
I'll be reviewing the TR51 in two sections: first, I'll discuss the light objectively (the facts about the light itself), then I'll discuss the light subjectively (my impressions about the light's performance when used for specific applications). This is a compact, powerful light geared more towards throw than flood. ROFIS advertises it as being useful for outdoor and tactical situations, so I'll be reviewing it as such. If you have any other specific applications you'd like the light tested for, let me know and I'll see what I can do.
4-Minute Overview
Below is a video "quick review" you can watch in just a few minutes, if you're not up for reading the full review right now:
Objective
Manufacturer's Specifications
MSRP: $94.95
Packaging
The box for the ROFIS TR51 displays it's stats, but more specific stats are included in the warrant/manual card inside. I didn't see this anywhere in packaging materials, but it's worth noting here that the runtime and output claims were measured using 4xCR123 batteries (according to the ROFIS website). Inside the box, the light and accessories are nestled into a foam cutout.
Construction Quality
The ROFIS TR51 has a very unique body design. It is run by either 4xCR123 or 2x18650, but instead of one long tube like most lights using these batteries, the TR51 has two tubes side by side. The batteries are still in series, so they still have the same voltage and capacity as if they were in a single tube.
Now, we'll examine the light up close, starting from the head and working back.
The TR51 has a crenellated bezel, which allows light to escape the sides even when set bezel-down. The bezel is one piece with the rest of the head (not removable). The lens has an anti-reflective coating, which allows almost all direct light to pass through. The reflector is very smooth, with no discernable texturing. A smooth reflector, though showing more irregularities in the beam, will throw light a bit farther than a textured reflector. Though not a dedicated thrower, this light does have pretty decent throwing distance, considering it's compact feel (see my lux and throw numbers in the performance section).
The TR51 uses a Cree XM-L U2 LED emitter. This is currently the brightest bin of XM-L available, and the XM-L is considered to be the most efficient emitter at high brightness levels (6/12/12).
The TR51 features two switches: one on the tail, and one on the side of the head. The tail switch turns the light on and off, and the side switch controls the mode. You can see there are a few heat dissipation fins just behind the head, then the two battery tubes are visibly separate from each other. The tail has four raised sections that go beyond the switch, each with a hole for a lanyard.
Here you can see a close-up of the button. It protrudes just slightly beyond the surrounding area on the head. Just above the button is printed the ROFIS logo and the model number. This is an electronic switch that detects being pressed or being held down.
On the reverse side of the head from the button is a heat caution, and the URL for the ROFIS website. I've also included close-ups of the heat dissipation fins behind the head, and the small grooves that give grip to the body tubes.
The tail switch is a forward-click switch, witch means you can press it half way for momentary activation, or press it fully to click it into constant on until the switch is clicked again. The raised crenellations around the tail allow the TR51 to do a very stable tail stand.
Now, let's take the light apart!
Without the use of tools, the TR51 comes apart into two pieces, the head and the tail. I suspect you could disassemble the head mechanism using a pair of pliers, but I did not do this as the light was merely loaned to me.
The threads are triangle cut and anodized, and there are quite a few of them. It takes several turns to take the head on or off. In this case, the anodizing on the tail doesn't really allow a lock-out feature by slightly unscrewing the light, as some of us are used to. The threads are completely anodized, and no electrical connection is made using them. The electrical path instead happens entirely on this blue board in the head, and the board is spring loaded, so it connects with the batteries for most of the length of the head travel. This positive side of this is that it means the TR51 can accomodate a wide range of battery lengths.
The board in the head has two smaller metal contact points, one for each battery. Because these are raised, they should have no trouble making connection with either flat top or button top cells (both my AW flat top and Trustfire button top cells connect just fine. In the picture on the right, you can see a small notch on the side of the board. This lines up with a groove in the body, to make sure the proper contact plate is always in line with the proper battery.
The body has two holes, one for each battery tube. You can see that each tube is very clearly labeled. The labels indicate which end of the battery should be pointing upwards. So, if you insert the batteries, you should see a negative pole by the negative sign and a positive pole by the positive sign. In the picture on the right, you can see the small groove in the side that lines up with the notch on the circuit board in the head. When screwing the head on, you hear and feel a small impact when the notch catches in the groove.
Using a screw driver, you can take apart and examine the tail, though this is not necessary or recommended for normal use. You can see in the picture on the left (click it for an enlarged version) that the screws securing the tail switch have small rubber skirts, which help maintain the water resistance in the tail. In the middle and right picture you can see the switch mechanism and the springs that make contact with the batteries.
Accessories
The TR51 comes with a lanyard and a holster.
The light fits in the holster head-up, and a velcro strap goes around the head (not over). It is fairly secure because of the raised section in the head around the switch, but it does leave the lens exposed.
The lanyard attaches to any of the four holes on the tail section by a small split ring. The light can still do a stable tail stand when the lanyard is attached.
Dimensions
User Interface
The TR51 has two switches that control 7 different modes. The tail switch turns the light on and off, and the side switch controls the modes. The tail switch has both momentary and constant on activation. The seven modes are put into two groups, the various brightness modes and the flashing modes.
When the light is off, the side switch does nothing. When the light is turned on by the tail switch, the side switch will change the modes. The TR51 has mode memory, so it comes on in whatever brightness mode was used last (the flash modes are not remembered). A quick click on the side switch moves through the four brightness levels, and holding the side switch for a little over a second will move to the flash modes. When in the flash group, a quick click on the side switch will cycle through the flash modes, and holding the side switch will return you to the last used brightness mode.
-----------
Brightness Modes Group (Light starts here when turned on, using the last used mode)
Low -> Medium -> High -> Turbo
Flash Modes Group (Accessed by holding the side switch when light is on, always starts in Crazy mode)
Crazy Strobe (fast strobe of varying frequency) -> SOS -> Regular Strobe
-----------
To see the UI in action, take a look at the video at the top of the review.
Action Shots
Light in Hand
White Wall (Low, Medium, High, Turbo)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1/20"
BeamSlice
MugShot
Indoor Shots (Low, Medium, High, Turbo)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1/4"
Outdoor Shots (Low, Medium, High, Turbo)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1"
Performance
Submersion: I did not test submersion of the TR51, because the light was loaned to me. It does have O-rings to seal the appropriate places to resist water intrusion.
Heat: On Turbo, the TR51 got hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold after about 10 minutes, but it automatically stepped down soon after that. I did notice that there seemed to be less heat around the batteries than I expected. It seems the separated barrel design is not only style, but functions as more surface area for greater heat dissipation away from the batteries.
PWM: I cannot detect PWM on any mode, however, Medium and Low mode show a certain amount of "flickering". On Medium, the effect is not visible but it is measurable (see runtime graph below). On Low mode it can be very visible. The light does not go off, but has rapid flickers of dim and bright. My guess is this is due to the circuit's attempt to regulate the output at very low current levels. Overall, the output keeps a solid average, but there is significant flickering around that average.
Drop: I did not drop-test the TR51, because the light was loaned to me. The light appears to have a solid design, and springs in the tail combined with the spring-loaded circuit board should prevent damage to batteries on most impacts.
Reverse Polarity Protection: I did not test reverse polarity protection, because the light was loaned to me. There is no obvious sign of mechanical protection here, so if it does have reverse polarity protection as ROFIS claims, it must electrical.
Over-Discharge Protection: The TR51 uses a low voltage warning to protect batteries from over-discharge. In my tests, the light was well regulated but then suddenly got very dim, and stayed dim a few hours before the battery protection circuits shut them off. When you see the light get dim, that's your cue to charge your batteries. I don't think the TR51 will shut itself off when it detects a low voltage, so I don't recommend leaving it running unattended.
Spectral Analysis
All light that we see as white is actually made up of several different colors put together. The relative intensities of the different colors in the mix are what determine the tint of the white we see. For example, cool white LED's have a lot of blue, and warm white LED's have more red or yellow. This measurement was done on a home made spectrometer. Note: the peak in the 900nm region doesn't really exist, it's a piece of the second-order spectrum that's showing up here because of the high intensity of the light source.
Output, Current Draw and Runtime
*Note: ANSI runtime ratings are the time it takes for a light to fall to 10% of it's original output. The Turbo mode stays at it's Turbo output for about 14 minutes, then steps down to about 70%. The 70% is still higher than High mode, and it maintains that for the rest of the battery life. The figure for my measured run time on Low is a calculation based on the current draw and the used capacity of the battery.
Note: The vertical axis of the graph below represents a relative brightness measurement using a home made light box. The horizontal axis is time in hours:minutes:seconds. Runtimes are stated in hours:minutes:seconds. These graphs may be truncated to show detail.
Mode Comparison
Turbo
High
Medium
Note: This graph shows that the output on Medium has the tendency to jump around a bit. This is not noticeable to me when using just my eyes, but obviously it is measurable. However, the Low mode does this jumping as well, and for the Low mode it is at times very noticeable by the naked eye, almost looking like flickering.
Throwing Distance
ANSI standard for stating a light's throwing distance is the distance at which the peak beam intensity (usually at the center of the beam) is 0.25 lux. I calculate throwing distance and candela (lux at 1 meter) by measuring peak beam intensity at five different distances and using the formula lux*distance^2=constant.
Peak Beam Intensity: 28178cd
Throw Distance: 336m
ROFIS claimed 31500cd and 355m when using 4xCR123, and I made my measurements using 2x18650. It is believable that the light will be brighter, and thus throw farther, when running on the higher voltage supplied by 4xCR123.
Subjective Review
General
Quick break down:
+ Ergonomic
+ Two-button UI
+ Better throw than expected
+ Option for primaries or rechargeable batteries
+ Great regulation
+ Good mode spacing & range
+ Unique style
+ Compact for a 2-cell
- Occasional flickering on Low mode
- What's a "ROFIS"?
- Two buttons require grip shift
I'll start by saying that the TR51 is just a real pleasure to use. This is comes from the combination of a lot of factors working together. Some lights have some of these things, but few lights seems to pay attention to all the details. In my opinion, the TR51 leaves little to be desired for a light in it's class.
First, the size and ergonomics of this light are great. Many multi-cell lights feel too long in proportion to their bezel diameter, except for those that cluster the batteries side-by-side, which feel too thick. The TR51 with it's dual battery tube not only looks good, but it seems to fit easily in the hand, and the buttons are positioned correctly in order to be easy to push.
As you can see in the runtime/output plots above, the regulation on these is very good. There is some flickering present, which is sometimes visible on the low mode, which I don't like. Fortunately, the average output remains very constant over the entire course of the battery life. What you can't see from the plots is that the mode spacing, including the total range of outputs, is abnormally excellent. In many high brightness lights, the manufacturers don't take into account that our brightness perception is not linear, and the result is that even though the modes look good on paper, in reality medium and high mode don't look very different to the user. That's not the case here, as each mode is not only noticeably brighter, but together they cover a wide range of output, which really lends to the versatility of the light.
Overall, the TR51 is going to be a great light to fill any number of needs. Having two cells instead of one like in similarly sized lights is just going to be an added bonus.
EDIT: Thanks to Jason for the tip on where to find what "ROFIS" means. You can find the explanation at the ROFIS website. I consider this a very minor negative, due to the time it will take to explain to your friends what a ROFIS is. :laughing:
Outdoor
ROFIS advertises this as being useful for "outdoor" applications, so I spent some time using it "outdoors" to evaluate it.
First thing I noticed when I took this outside is that it threw further than I expected it to. I could tell the beam was well focused, but it turned out better than I thought. The tint of this light is cool white, but it's a very even cool (no blue or purple cast), and a little warmer than some, so I found it very easy on the eyes for outdoor application. Also, while geared a bit more towards throw than flood, it did have a very good amount of usable spill, so there was no problem with "tunnel vision".
One of the main things I consider when choosing a light to use outdoors is the fact that "outdoors" is a messy, rough place. The ROFIS is waterproof to IPX-8 standards, which is a definite must (it can handle being submerged in water). As I mentioned above, I did not actually perform a water test or drop test, because the light was loaned to me, but I have no doubt its rugged enough to handle some drops (the springs around the batteries will help a lot here). I would like to see the bezel extend a little further beyond the lens to give a little extra protection when landing head-down on an uneven surface, but that's not a deal-breaker to me. Also, I'm just slightly worried about something getting wedged in the gap between the battery tubes.
The TR51 performed very well outdoors, and I would not hesitate to use it in more extreme conditions if it were not a loaner. However, I believe for most outdoor use, I'm inclined to grab a light running off 3x18650, just to have the extra runtime (so I can stay outside longer
). My hands are big enough that the extra size isn't too uncomfortable for me.
Tactical
ROFIS advertises the TR51 as being useful for "tactical" applications, so I spent some time emulating "tactical" situations (as I didn't have an actual tactical situation handy this week).
Many people have very different ideas on what they are looking for in a tactical light. I have a very loose definition that it's a light that will perform exactly as you expect, to the point you can form a plan (tactics) in which the use of the light in a specific way is critical. This definition could fit anything from a floodlight to a keychain light, providing they performed reliably and their type of output was what was needed for your specific application. So, your needs for a tactical light are going to depend heavily on the specific tactics you need to execute. The TR51 is going to be useful for situations that require high brightness at mid to long ranges (I'd say about 100m was the sweet spot), with a need for lower brightness at times as well.
So, that being said, there are a few things that I really like about the TR51 that I anticipate will be useful in most tactical situations. The first is the separate switches to turn the light on/off and to change the mode. This means that you can set the brightness you want, and turn it on/off as much as you want, as rapidly as you want, without changing the brightness. With that, the flashing modes are available, but not as part of the normal sequence, so you have them only when you intend to. That's huge, as accidentally activating strobe in a delicate situation is not good at all (not to mention embarrassing). The good grip and easy reach to the switches is also a big plus, as I can think of few tactical situations that will call for a slippery, awkward to hold light. Also, the flat regulation is going to be pretty helpful, as you can count on your light not getting dim as you use it.
On the other hand, there are also a few things I dislike about the TR51 in a tactical situation. However, the changes I'd like to see mostly would have to be made as a group instead of individually. In my mind, the mode memory introduces a certain amount of uncertainty when using the light, if you don't remember what mode you used last, so I'd rather see it always start in either high or low after being off for a time. Also, the current design requires different grips for one-handed operation of the two switches, so if you've turned it on and want to change the mode, or you've changed the mode and need to turn it off, you have to switch your grip to do it. I'd either like to see side-by-side buttons (or at least reachable from the same grip) or a side-button that can also turn the light off (maybe holding the button turns it off, and the strobe modes are accessed by 3 quick clicks instead). Either way, you would then be able to use all the functions of the light without shifting your grip, which I see as a huge plus in a tactical situation.
Overall, this is definitely a possibility for your use in a tactical situation--just consider what you need done, and then see if this is a light you can rely on to do it every time.
Long Term Impressions
I'll fill this part in after carrying the light for a while. If nothing get's added here, either I find nothing else worth noting about the light, or I end up not using it often.
Thanks to Jason at Sbflashlights for lending the TR51 for review.
I'll be reviewing the TR51 in two sections: first, I'll discuss the light objectively (the facts about the light itself), then I'll discuss the light subjectively (my impressions about the light's performance when used for specific applications). This is a compact, powerful light geared more towards throw than flood. ROFIS advertises it as being useful for outdoor and tactical situations, so I'll be reviewing it as such. If you have any other specific applications you'd like the light tested for, let me know and I'll see what I can do.
4-Minute Overview
Below is a video "quick review" you can watch in just a few minutes, if you're not up for reading the full review right now:
Objective
Manufacturer's Specifications
MSRP: $94.95
Packaging
The box for the ROFIS TR51 displays it's stats, but more specific stats are included in the warrant/manual card inside. I didn't see this anywhere in packaging materials, but it's worth noting here that the runtime and output claims were measured using 4xCR123 batteries (according to the ROFIS website). Inside the box, the light and accessories are nestled into a foam cutout.
Construction Quality
The ROFIS TR51 has a very unique body design. It is run by either 4xCR123 or 2x18650, but instead of one long tube like most lights using these batteries, the TR51 has two tubes side by side. The batteries are still in series, so they still have the same voltage and capacity as if they were in a single tube.
Now, we'll examine the light up close, starting from the head and working back.
The TR51 has a crenellated bezel, which allows light to escape the sides even when set bezel-down. The bezel is one piece with the rest of the head (not removable). The lens has an anti-reflective coating, which allows almost all direct light to pass through. The reflector is very smooth, with no discernable texturing. A smooth reflector, though showing more irregularities in the beam, will throw light a bit farther than a textured reflector. Though not a dedicated thrower, this light does have pretty decent throwing distance, considering it's compact feel (see my lux and throw numbers in the performance section).
The TR51 uses a Cree XM-L U2 LED emitter. This is currently the brightest bin of XM-L available, and the XM-L is considered to be the most efficient emitter at high brightness levels (6/12/12).
The TR51 features two switches: one on the tail, and one on the side of the head. The tail switch turns the light on and off, and the side switch controls the mode. You can see there are a few heat dissipation fins just behind the head, then the two battery tubes are visibly separate from each other. The tail has four raised sections that go beyond the switch, each with a hole for a lanyard.
Here you can see a close-up of the button. It protrudes just slightly beyond the surrounding area on the head. Just above the button is printed the ROFIS logo and the model number. This is an electronic switch that detects being pressed or being held down.
On the reverse side of the head from the button is a heat caution, and the URL for the ROFIS website. I've also included close-ups of the heat dissipation fins behind the head, and the small grooves that give grip to the body tubes.
The tail switch is a forward-click switch, witch means you can press it half way for momentary activation, or press it fully to click it into constant on until the switch is clicked again. The raised crenellations around the tail allow the TR51 to do a very stable tail stand.
Now, let's take the light apart!
Without the use of tools, the TR51 comes apart into two pieces, the head and the tail. I suspect you could disassemble the head mechanism using a pair of pliers, but I did not do this as the light was merely loaned to me.
The threads are triangle cut and anodized, and there are quite a few of them. It takes several turns to take the head on or off. In this case, the anodizing on the tail doesn't really allow a lock-out feature by slightly unscrewing the light, as some of us are used to. The threads are completely anodized, and no electrical connection is made using them. The electrical path instead happens entirely on this blue board in the head, and the board is spring loaded, so it connects with the batteries for most of the length of the head travel. This positive side of this is that it means the TR51 can accomodate a wide range of battery lengths.
The board in the head has two smaller metal contact points, one for each battery. Because these are raised, they should have no trouble making connection with either flat top or button top cells (both my AW flat top and Trustfire button top cells connect just fine. In the picture on the right, you can see a small notch on the side of the board. This lines up with a groove in the body, to make sure the proper contact plate is always in line with the proper battery.
The body has two holes, one for each battery tube. You can see that each tube is very clearly labeled. The labels indicate which end of the battery should be pointing upwards. So, if you insert the batteries, you should see a negative pole by the negative sign and a positive pole by the positive sign. In the picture on the right, you can see the small groove in the side that lines up with the notch on the circuit board in the head. When screwing the head on, you hear and feel a small impact when the notch catches in the groove.
Using a screw driver, you can take apart and examine the tail, though this is not necessary or recommended for normal use. You can see in the picture on the left (click it for an enlarged version) that the screws securing the tail switch have small rubber skirts, which help maintain the water resistance in the tail. In the middle and right picture you can see the switch mechanism and the springs that make contact with the batteries.
Accessories
The TR51 comes with a lanyard and a holster.
The light fits in the holster head-up, and a velcro strap goes around the head (not over). It is fairly secure because of the raised section in the head around the switch, but it does leave the lens exposed.
The lanyard attaches to any of the four holes on the tail section by a small split ring. The light can still do a stable tail stand when the lanyard is attached.
Dimensions
User Interface
The TR51 has two switches that control 7 different modes. The tail switch turns the light on and off, and the side switch controls the modes. The tail switch has both momentary and constant on activation. The seven modes are put into two groups, the various brightness modes and the flashing modes.
When the light is off, the side switch does nothing. When the light is turned on by the tail switch, the side switch will change the modes. The TR51 has mode memory, so it comes on in whatever brightness mode was used last (the flash modes are not remembered). A quick click on the side switch moves through the four brightness levels, and holding the side switch for a little over a second will move to the flash modes. When in the flash group, a quick click on the side switch will cycle through the flash modes, and holding the side switch will return you to the last used brightness mode.
-----------
Brightness Modes Group (Light starts here when turned on, using the last used mode)
Low -> Medium -> High -> Turbo
Flash Modes Group (Accessed by holding the side switch when light is on, always starts in Crazy mode)
Crazy Strobe (fast strobe of varying frequency) -> SOS -> Regular Strobe
-----------
To see the UI in action, take a look at the video at the top of the review.
Action Shots
Light in Hand
White Wall (Low, Medium, High, Turbo)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1/20"
BeamSlice
MugShot
Indoor Shots (Low, Medium, High, Turbo)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1/4"
Outdoor Shots (Low, Medium, High, Turbo)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1"
Performance
Submersion: I did not test submersion of the TR51, because the light was loaned to me. It does have O-rings to seal the appropriate places to resist water intrusion.
Heat: On Turbo, the TR51 got hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold after about 10 minutes, but it automatically stepped down soon after that. I did notice that there seemed to be less heat around the batteries than I expected. It seems the separated barrel design is not only style, but functions as more surface area for greater heat dissipation away from the batteries.
PWM: I cannot detect PWM on any mode, however, Medium and Low mode show a certain amount of "flickering". On Medium, the effect is not visible but it is measurable (see runtime graph below). On Low mode it can be very visible. The light does not go off, but has rapid flickers of dim and bright. My guess is this is due to the circuit's attempt to regulate the output at very low current levels. Overall, the output keeps a solid average, but there is significant flickering around that average.
Drop: I did not drop-test the TR51, because the light was loaned to me. The light appears to have a solid design, and springs in the tail combined with the spring-loaded circuit board should prevent damage to batteries on most impacts.
Reverse Polarity Protection: I did not test reverse polarity protection, because the light was loaned to me. There is no obvious sign of mechanical protection here, so if it does have reverse polarity protection as ROFIS claims, it must electrical.
Over-Discharge Protection: The TR51 uses a low voltage warning to protect batteries from over-discharge. In my tests, the light was well regulated but then suddenly got very dim, and stayed dim a few hours before the battery protection circuits shut them off. When you see the light get dim, that's your cue to charge your batteries. I don't think the TR51 will shut itself off when it detects a low voltage, so I don't recommend leaving it running unattended.
Spectral Analysis
All light that we see as white is actually made up of several different colors put together. The relative intensities of the different colors in the mix are what determine the tint of the white we see. For example, cool white LED's have a lot of blue, and warm white LED's have more red or yellow. This measurement was done on a home made spectrometer. Note: the peak in the 900nm region doesn't really exist, it's a piece of the second-order spectrum that's showing up here because of the high intensity of the light source.
Output, Current Draw and Runtime
*Note: ANSI runtime ratings are the time it takes for a light to fall to 10% of it's original output. The Turbo mode stays at it's Turbo output for about 14 minutes, then steps down to about 70%. The 70% is still higher than High mode, and it maintains that for the rest of the battery life. The figure for my measured run time on Low is a calculation based on the current draw and the used capacity of the battery.
Note: The vertical axis of the graph below represents a relative brightness measurement using a home made light box. The horizontal axis is time in hours:minutes:seconds. Runtimes are stated in hours:minutes:seconds. These graphs may be truncated to show detail.
Mode Comparison
Turbo
High
Medium
Note: This graph shows that the output on Medium has the tendency to jump around a bit. This is not noticeable to me when using just my eyes, but obviously it is measurable. However, the Low mode does this jumping as well, and for the Low mode it is at times very noticeable by the naked eye, almost looking like flickering.
Throwing Distance
ANSI standard for stating a light's throwing distance is the distance at which the peak beam intensity (usually at the center of the beam) is 0.25 lux. I calculate throwing distance and candela (lux at 1 meter) by measuring peak beam intensity at five different distances and using the formula lux*distance^2=constant.
Peak Beam Intensity: 28178cd
Throw Distance: 336m
ROFIS claimed 31500cd and 355m when using 4xCR123, and I made my measurements using 2x18650. It is believable that the light will be brighter, and thus throw farther, when running on the higher voltage supplied by 4xCR123.
Subjective Review
General
Quick break down:
+ Ergonomic
+ Two-button UI
+ Better throw than expected
+ Option for primaries or rechargeable batteries
+ Great regulation
+ Good mode spacing & range
+ Unique style
+ Compact for a 2-cell
- Occasional flickering on Low mode
- What's a "ROFIS"?
- Two buttons require grip shift
I'll start by saying that the TR51 is just a real pleasure to use. This is comes from the combination of a lot of factors working together. Some lights have some of these things, but few lights seems to pay attention to all the details. In my opinion, the TR51 leaves little to be desired for a light in it's class.
First, the size and ergonomics of this light are great. Many multi-cell lights feel too long in proportion to their bezel diameter, except for those that cluster the batteries side-by-side, which feel too thick. The TR51 with it's dual battery tube not only looks good, but it seems to fit easily in the hand, and the buttons are positioned correctly in order to be easy to push.
As you can see in the runtime/output plots above, the regulation on these is very good. There is some flickering present, which is sometimes visible on the low mode, which I don't like. Fortunately, the average output remains very constant over the entire course of the battery life. What you can't see from the plots is that the mode spacing, including the total range of outputs, is abnormally excellent. In many high brightness lights, the manufacturers don't take into account that our brightness perception is not linear, and the result is that even though the modes look good on paper, in reality medium and high mode don't look very different to the user. That's not the case here, as each mode is not only noticeably brighter, but together they cover a wide range of output, which really lends to the versatility of the light.
Overall, the TR51 is going to be a great light to fill any number of needs. Having two cells instead of one like in similarly sized lights is just going to be an added bonus.
EDIT: Thanks to Jason for the tip on where to find what "ROFIS" means. You can find the explanation at the ROFIS website. I consider this a very minor negative, due to the time it will take to explain to your friends what a ROFIS is. :laughing:
Outdoor
ROFIS advertises this as being useful for "outdoor" applications, so I spent some time using it "outdoors" to evaluate it.
First thing I noticed when I took this outside is that it threw further than I expected it to. I could tell the beam was well focused, but it turned out better than I thought. The tint of this light is cool white, but it's a very even cool (no blue or purple cast), and a little warmer than some, so I found it very easy on the eyes for outdoor application. Also, while geared a bit more towards throw than flood, it did have a very good amount of usable spill, so there was no problem with "tunnel vision".
One of the main things I consider when choosing a light to use outdoors is the fact that "outdoors" is a messy, rough place. The ROFIS is waterproof to IPX-8 standards, which is a definite must (it can handle being submerged in water). As I mentioned above, I did not actually perform a water test or drop test, because the light was loaned to me, but I have no doubt its rugged enough to handle some drops (the springs around the batteries will help a lot here). I would like to see the bezel extend a little further beyond the lens to give a little extra protection when landing head-down on an uneven surface, but that's not a deal-breaker to me. Also, I'm just slightly worried about something getting wedged in the gap between the battery tubes.
The TR51 performed very well outdoors, and I would not hesitate to use it in more extreme conditions if it were not a loaner. However, I believe for most outdoor use, I'm inclined to grab a light running off 3x18650, just to have the extra runtime (so I can stay outside longer
). My hands are big enough that the extra size isn't too uncomfortable for me.Tactical
ROFIS advertises the TR51 as being useful for "tactical" applications, so I spent some time emulating "tactical" situations (as I didn't have an actual tactical situation handy this week).
Many people have very different ideas on what they are looking for in a tactical light. I have a very loose definition that it's a light that will perform exactly as you expect, to the point you can form a plan (tactics) in which the use of the light in a specific way is critical. This definition could fit anything from a floodlight to a keychain light, providing they performed reliably and their type of output was what was needed for your specific application. So, your needs for a tactical light are going to depend heavily on the specific tactics you need to execute. The TR51 is going to be useful for situations that require high brightness at mid to long ranges (I'd say about 100m was the sweet spot), with a need for lower brightness at times as well.
So, that being said, there are a few things that I really like about the TR51 that I anticipate will be useful in most tactical situations. The first is the separate switches to turn the light on/off and to change the mode. This means that you can set the brightness you want, and turn it on/off as much as you want, as rapidly as you want, without changing the brightness. With that, the flashing modes are available, but not as part of the normal sequence, so you have them only when you intend to. That's huge, as accidentally activating strobe in a delicate situation is not good at all (not to mention embarrassing). The good grip and easy reach to the switches is also a big plus, as I can think of few tactical situations that will call for a slippery, awkward to hold light. Also, the flat regulation is going to be pretty helpful, as you can count on your light not getting dim as you use it.
On the other hand, there are also a few things I dislike about the TR51 in a tactical situation. However, the changes I'd like to see mostly would have to be made as a group instead of individually. In my mind, the mode memory introduces a certain amount of uncertainty when using the light, if you don't remember what mode you used last, so I'd rather see it always start in either high or low after being off for a time. Also, the current design requires different grips for one-handed operation of the two switches, so if you've turned it on and want to change the mode, or you've changed the mode and need to turn it off, you have to switch your grip to do it. I'd either like to see side-by-side buttons (or at least reachable from the same grip) or a side-button that can also turn the light off (maybe holding the button turns it off, and the strobe modes are accessed by 3 quick clicks instead). Either way, you would then be able to use all the functions of the light without shifting your grip, which I see as a huge plus in a tactical situation.
Overall, this is definitely a possibility for your use in a tactical situation--just consider what you need done, and then see if this is a light you can rely on to do it every time.
Long Term Impressions
I'll fill this part in after carrying the light for a while. If nothing get's added here, either I find nothing else worth noting about the light, or I end up not using it often.
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