Make one up

heres one, if you could take all the best bits from your favourite torches.. what would you end up with..

They already make my ideal light... the A2. It'd be really nice to have something to grip on the lamp assembly so I wouldn't feel like it'd slip out of my hands when swapping, but aside from that... perfection. It'd also be nice to be able to buy multiple LED bezel heads for it, but I'd be willing to drop $200 for another. A shock-isolated bezel would be neat too, but I don't foresee myself needing it. See my review here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/107355

a titanium peak with the finish of a surefire, the runtime of the underwater kinetics 4aa eLED, the brightness of the barn burner, the size of the firefly or aunoc, and did I forget to mention the waterproof capabilities of a divelight.LOL,if this light were to exist, the sun would explode,LOL, :lolsign: :laughing:

Did I also forget to mention the price of a plastic case keychain LED light?

For the kind of work I do......
Titanium.
Throw of a highly modded m@g.
Led.
Rechargable.
100% weatherproof.
Focusable beam.
2+ hours of flat regulation at least.
Small enough to fit in a Uncle Mikes Scorpion holster.

I would use this light to conduct room/building searches and exterior searches. I need throw as much as spill.
I can hit it with a hammer and it still work.

Any one can make this? PM ME!

A combination of the A2, U2, and Darpa.

A clickie on/off, with a ring at the head end, to set:

Position 1: 4-5 lumens red LED (map reading with dark adapted eyes)

Position 2: 4-5 lumens white LED flood (general use with dark adapted eyes)

Position 3: 25-30 lumens regulated white LED flood (general use without dark adapted eyes and extended runtime)

Position 4: 60-100 lumens regulated white LED flood (looking for what made the noise in the yard at O-Dark-thirty)

Position 5: 60-100 lumens regulated white incandescent (identifying what made the noise in the yard at O-Dark-thirty)

I want to be able to use 2 or 3 123As to get either more lumens from the incan by using different bulbs (like the P60/P61), or more runtime.

I want it all built into a head that'll screw onto either a C or E size body.

That's what I want.

Monty

I did mine, starting with an early L1. I reworked it to take an uncut McR20, used an Aleph 1X 123 body, and and a modded (For my over-sized thumb to work) Aleph trim(?) 2-stage tailcap. I made a copper, DD light engine for it and use an R123. There is room to for one of Wayne's drivers. The heatsinking is great with the flange of the LE being trapped between the inside of the head, (machined flat) and the face of the body. (Yeah, the LE can fall out while changing batts. ) The first pic shows an earlier rev that I made with a longer bezel ring. The current uses an uncrennalated ring from an early E2e. The other light was a "kit" that Don gifted me, and is my numero uno desert campout light. :bow: Don!




I really like the light, but may convert it to a primary with a driver.

Larry

Pretty cool, Larry. I'd hate to drop the camo job in the tall weeds at dusk, though.

I just put an Aleph 2-stage switch on my L-4, and I'm really impressed with the quality.

Monty

Here are few that I came up with .

An Aleph 2 head on a E2D bod with a Z61 clicky .



A KL4 on a Aleph 1x123 body with a Z61 tailcap . ( TW4 )



An Aleph 3 head on a moded 6P body .



Kenny

No more jokes from me now, for me, I would be something along the lines of a knurled titanium arc luxeon or aa surefire luxeon smaller than a fenix l1p,infinite variable brightness levels, with a strobe and/or SOS flash option. Now that's a little more realistic! Or an Inova aaa luxeon(yes I know, I'm obsessed with type 3 HA lights!) Must be waterproof, and have a tempered mineral glass or pyrex lens!!! Has to run on aaa's or aa's and have a runtime of at least 1 1/2 before going on low.

I hate to keep talking up McGizmo, but in all honesty, between the PD and the HD45, I think all my flashlight ideals are met right there... I guess it would be nice to be able to charge the lights either on a charger or by removing the cells, but that's pretty minor.

But since that's kind of a pansy way out, I guess this would be my ideal light:

- 2 cell, 2 stage light
- High would be in the 'holy Hell' range for at least 1 hour
- Low would give ample throw, a large hotspot, but not so bright as to destroy night vision and the spill beam needs to be very usably large and bright
- Could run on a single 18650 cell, 2 primary cells or 2 R123 cells
- HAIII coated, natural prefered, but black is fine too
- glass lens preferably AR coated

In all honesty, the CPF 16 level light comes pretty close for a very reasonable cost though about 2 - 5 widely-spaced levels would be more ideal.