FireFly 3 Battery dims

Tremendo

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
Messages
407
Location
Kingwood, TX
I love my F3, my favorite light. Everyone says it doesn't really dim, burst then high kick out, it turns off, rest it a bit and you get some low runtime still. However, I've been through several charges each of 2 RCR123 batteries (inlcuded with light) and my FF3 definitely gets very dim. I've never had it kick off even on burst, it just dims. But dims as the battery dies, I've had it dwn to maybe 1/4 of normal power. Really dim. Then I get bothered that it's not that bright anymore, and realize the battery is beat, put a new battery in and I'm happy again. I got my FF3 about 3 weeks ago.

Any thoughts? I almost prefer it to dim instead of just die, since it's still functional and I never get left in the dark.

Tom

PS - With all the lights I now have, if I lost them all, the FF3 would be the 1st to replace.
 

Planterz

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 14, 2005
Messages
1,162
Location
Tucson, AZ
This supprised me as well. I set my Fire~Fly III on burst (in a glass of water for cooling) and although "bright" lasted about 40-45 minutes, it was still going after 2 hours. Very dimly, but it was. Same with the Peak Rainier I had during a passaround. My McLux PD simply shuts off. I think it's the bin of the LED, specifically the foreward voltage (Vf), which is the last letter. The Fire~Fly III uses an H Vf bin, while the PD uses a J bin. The H bin will still operate at lower voltage where a J bin would stop shining. Then add the combination of a boost circuit (or lack thereof) and this will cause a certian light to shut down (or rather the battery) or keep going. The Fire~Fly III I think is simply direct driven, although there might be a buck circuit (somebody correct me on this if I'm wrong), as is the Peak Rainier. The Wiz2 circuit in the PD is a true voltage converter which'll keep the light going even if the voltage of the battery dips below the Vf of the LED.
 
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