Un-flashaholic-thought....

If I have a Fenix L1P, do I really NEED a surefire E1L Outdoorsman.....?

I have the SF E2D, so with some Legoing i could have the E2L Outdoorsman also... Is it worth the 99$ (+shipping)....?

The reason I've stayed away from Fenix lights is because I like forward clickies (eg Maglites), but unfortunately the clickies on Fenix's are the reverse type, which to me is un-natural. When I press the button I want INSTANT light, without needing to let go of the button. It's the same reason I've stayed away from Lumapower, Huntlights, Liteflux, Jetbeam, Lumalight.. ALL these clickie lights made in China are reverse type- I wish they made a normal clickie!! (Maybe it's too difficult to implement these type of switching?)

Here's a list of the lights that currently are reverse clicky:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/147393

xiaowenzu said:

The reason I've stayed away from Fenix lights is because I like forward clickies (eg Maglites), but unfortunately the clickies on Fenix's are the reverse type, which to me is un-natural. When I press the button I want INSTANT light, without having to let go of the button. It's the same reason I've stayed away from Lumapower, Huntlights, Liteflux, Jetbeam, Lumalight and just about every clickie light made in China - I wish they made a normal clickie!! (Maybe it's too difficult to implement these type of switching?)

Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly.

In addition to a reverse-clickie tailcap Lumapower M3 is supplied with a second tailcap that works exactly like an Inova X series one: push for momentary, tighten in for constant on.

Kilovolt said:

In addition to a reverse-clickie tailcap Lumapower M3 is supplied with a second tailcap that works exactly like an Inova X series one: push for momentary, tighten in for constant on.

Click to expand...

ugh, I don't like Twistie it's even worse than reverse clickie because I have to use both hands to activate the light. I only wish for a postive clickie.

Liteflux LF1 also has a normal momentary on switch. I like the momentary on with twisty for constant (like many Surefires). But I really dont understand why so many manufacturers go with the reverse clicky, it can't be that hard or expencive to make a true momentary on. There have been many threads about it, but not sure if a good answere was given. I can understand that a momentary on doesnt work on a light with many levels were you chose them with multiple taps, but I'm not that found of that interface anyway. Chosing lvl with the bezel is the way to go !MHO.

But back on topic, no, you don't NEED the E1 if you allready have the L1P. But need and want is two completely different things.
If you have deep pockets enough and really want it, go for it!

not sure why you think the comments on reverse clickies apply to Lumapower.

Both the M1 and M3 have a standard 2-stage clicky, you click it and you get first level, click again get higher level, click again for off.

in addition the M3 shipped standard with an extra tactical clicky, I believe it is also an option for the M1.

the Fenix L1D CE is a reverse clicky indeed (you push not all the way to shift between modes).

maybe I am getting lost in semantics, but anyway, this is the situation (I own and use all three of the lights mentioned above).

Lobo said:

But I really dont understand why so many manufacturers go with the reverse clicky, it can't be that hard or expencive to make a true momentary on. There have been many threads about it, but not sure if a good answere was given.

Click to expand...

hmm... I've been pondering this issue lately and here's my theory: (excuse the poetry ) Once upon a time only Maglites existed, and then came 1st Chinese manufacturer to copy it. Now this 1st Chinese company decided to use reverse clicky instead because it was slightly easier and cheaper to make - Tada! First Chinese light was born! Very quickly, a THOUSAND other Chinese flashlight makers jumped on this 'pioneering' maker and COPIED the Chinese clone. It was good profit and easy... and the reverse clicky spread and spread, a billion times.

This explains why Chinese lights today are almost always Reverse clicky. There have been many different Chinese designs (inspired from foriegn brands of course), but only thing they neglected was the switch.. but to them, it's "If it aint broke why fix it?"

UGH I HATE REVERSE CLICKYS!

flashy bazook said:

not sure why you think the comments on reverse clickies apply to Lumapower.

Both the M1 and M3 have a standard 2-stage clicky, you click it and you get first level, click again get higher level, click again for off.

Click to expand...

It is called a reverse clickie because when you push the button lightly or even completely nothing happens (Lumapower included) and only when you release it the light comes on.
In forward clickies (e.g. Surefires) as soon as you push the button the light is switched on (momentarily or permanently).

reverse clicky can be made cheaper, smaller and more reliable all on one package.

imho the reverse is the perfect and only workable means to switch between the levels on the fenixes. It would be not possible with a forward (and akward)

You could wait a few months for Surefire to launch their Cree lights. 30 lumens and a longer runtime. Or you could get a Amilite T5 with 80 Lumens high and a low mode and there are a few more brands that also produce a E1L like light.

Surefire has the quality and customer service and the other brands have the lower price and higher brightness.

lys_og_varme said:

If I have a Fenix L1P, do I really NEED a surefire E1L Outdoorsman.....?

I have the SF E2D, so with some Legoing i could have the E2L Outdoorsman also... Is it worth the 99$ (+shipping)....?

Click to expand...

lys_og_varme said:

If I have a Fenix L1P, do I really NEED a surefire E1L Outdoorsman.....?

Click to expand...

If you're not sure you need it, you probably don't. But some people, such as myself, like the look and feel of SF lights.

GeorgePaul said:

If you're not sure you need it, you probably don't. But some people, such as myself, like the look and feel of SF lights.

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If your not sure you need it, just get it anyway~!!!!

-- words to live by. :rock:

lys_og_varme said:

If I have a Fenix L1P, do I really NEED a surefire E1L Outdoorsman.....?

I have the SF E2D, so with some Legoing i could have the E2L Outdoorsman also... Is it worth the 99$ (+shipping)....?

Click to expand...

YES , buy it you need it, they are completly different types of lights, and you are in dire need of a backup.

IS my SureFire stock rising yet? i need to sell

I like all types of lights. I can use twisties one handed without a problem and do. I find Inova easier to use than Fenix twisties because I can put the end against the heal of my hand and twist the body. I do like clickies a little better because I can flash the light on and off quickly to see just for a moment. It's a little slower with a twisty. The only thing I really prefer a postive clicky for is a tactical light. You can make do with something else is if you really have to, but really, nothing replaces the postive clicky for a tactical light. I'm looking forward to surefire upgrading the L2 next year.

lys_og_varme said:

If I have a Fenix L1P, do I really NEED a surefire E1L Outdoorsman.....?

I have the SF E2D, so with some Legoing i could have the E2L Outdoorsman also... Is it worth the 99$ (+shipping)....?

Click to expand...

Hi there. Welcome to CPF. No harm in investing in an E1L. Its the E series lego. Since you have E2D you are set to lego. Its even nicer if there is a all black E1L version. There is an all black E1E though. Or just get the Black KL1 head does well with the E2D body and TC. Cpfer AW 3.7v hi-cap R123s also can be used on these.

If you have a Fenix L1P, you will like the L1D CE

Greetings!

lys_og_varme said:

If I have a Fenix L1P, do I really NEED a surefire E1L Outdoorsman.....?

Click to expand...

Since when did "NEED" have anything to do with being a flashaholic?

Best wishes,
Bawko

lys_og_varme said:

If I have a Fenix L1P, do I really NEED a surefire E1L Outdoorsman.....?

Click to expand...

As far as I'm concerned, you're not a flashaholic until you've purchased yourself a Surefire

sorry to be OT... but in response to the talk about lousy reverse clickies... The ideal little budget light that has a NORMAL clicky (like mag) is the Brinkman maxfire... great little mod host with a good click and glass lens... at $16 at target, I don't feel bad if It gets busted up, can just pull the mod-guts and replace host. And It would probably support a 26mm cree drop-in just fine.