Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Hmm... that's a good point, didn't even think of that. Makes sense though -- a typical 5mm LED at 20mA drive would be bad to put a couple inches from ones eyeballs and stare into for prolonged periods, similar problem as green lasers with crappy IR filtering (though there you have a lot more problems if you try to stare into one ... even if it has good filtering...) Most of the newer mice seem to be going all black as well -- so even the red beam isn't really visible anymore, anyway. In the past optical mice used to be clear as if to "flaunt" that feature.TorchBoy said:
It probably has to do with sensitivity of the sensor more than anything. Swapping an LED such as a blue or white will still work, even in one that was orignally red -- it just won't be as sensitive on surfaces that aren't consistent. Although, there are some gaming mice that have blue LEDs in them for looks.TorchBoy said:
True said:Actually, most old ball mice were optical in nature - the ball moved a horizontal and vertical bar, which had slotted wheels at the ends. Between these were a light source and a receptor - when the mouse was moved, this would cause the slotted wheel to turn, cutting off then allowing the light to pass at a high rate.
As far as the topic goes, I have swapped IR into a mouse and it worked fine. I have also swapped high intensity blue into a few mice, and all worked fine as well. One wireless one in particular would turn the LED off earlier than it would with red, then it'd flicker on / off at .8-2hz or so, so the mouse would seem like it was turning on / off rapidly... if you are doing this to a wireless mouse, this would be my only concern.
And yes, the red LED is reusable (most use a 5mm LED), but why not just buy a package of them for cheap?
Beamshots?riffraff said:
