Tigerlight O ring

Whats up with this? I'm using the correct O ring (034) and still having problems. Is the O ring supposed to be showing or does it disappear under the bezel when it's tightened down? My FBOP TL came new with the O ring not showing and now I can't get it back there, even when using the 034.

The new 8" design will conceal the o-ring when tightened. The older 8" and all 11" will show the o-ring when tightened.

I just took a toothpick and lined it back up again, put some lubricant on it, and tightened it in. Not much of a problem unless you're constantly opening up the head/bezel...

Originally posted by flashlightlens.com:
The new 8" design will conceal the o-ring when tightened. The older 8" and all 11" will show the o-ring when tightened.

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<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Is that acheived by a new bezel or new body? Any idea how water proof my FBOP is with that 1/16" gap showing between bezel and body?

Brightnorm

I'm pretty sure the water resistance of both designs is equally effective. I don't recall there being a gap in either design. I only saw one of the new 8" lights in person once - and very briefly at that. When assembled correctly, the old 8" and all 11" models will have the 1/16" o-ring visibly sandwiched between the bezel and head body. I'm pretty sure the new 8" closes the gap completely - the bezel will screw on over the o-ring. Again, my take on the 8" is from memory.

It appeared the new 8" design was achieved by removing the lip that was present. The lip was about the same size as the OD of the bezel threads and would hold the o-ring, whose OD was about the same as the bezel and head's OD. I can't recall if they recessed the o-ring (actually made a slot), or just removed the lip in the new design.

Chris

The change was made to the lens ring. generally the FBOP has the oring that conceals. We are aware that the oring design at that point is difficult. I have been using it for so long tha I don't have any problem with it. It does provide the requisite water resistance. I tis important to be using a 90 durometer oring. The oring that comes stock is a 136.

being a rechargeable it is really not encountered very often, but I have actually worked the assenbly line for a long time so that I could train our employees. I just let my hand slide around the circumfrence of the lens ring, right over the top of the oring and that pushes it into place while tightening. Unfortunately their is a technique to it.

Originally posted by TigerLight Pro:
The change was made to the lens ring..... tec

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<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I was able to fully close the lens rig with the stock plastic lens, but not with the UCL.

Can I buy the new lens ring?

Brightnorm

I have the same problem with the 1/16" gap after installing the UCL lenses w/new o-rings in only one of the two 8" TL's recently purchased from Dan.

This one also has noticeably less light output and a more uneven beam pattern than the other one, and the battery wrap is blue. The brighter one with no gap has a white battery.

Any suggestions?

John

I've got an 8" on the way (I couldn't pass up Dan's outstanding price)- I'll have to verify any problems with the lens installation. I think the LA damper on the 8" is the same as the 11" - which means you should be able to put a thicker lens in without any problem - it simply tightens the LA further into the rubber tube. This is, in fact, how we increased the duarbility of the glass lens in the 11". If you remove the o-ring and tighten the bezel all the way (until it closes the gap completely), it increases the pressure on the lens. This keeps the lens from moving back and forth and prevents it from imapcting the inside of the bezel, which causes it to break.

Chris

[EDIT] - I'm still torn on whether or not the new #034 o-ring fixes problems, or causes more. I'll do some testing with the 8" when I get it.