Gliderguy
Newly Enlightened
Ok, I got my SRT6 and am totally happy with it meeting my expectations. I was torn hard between it and the SRT7, but really didn't want the extra complexity of three additional color modes. THAT BEING SAID, I live in Arizona and having a blacklight/near UV light is practical and useful for finding scorpions and a few other critters. I suppose it would also have real utility for law enforcement for body fluid or U.V. dye identification. I wish we could take the SRT7 form factor and starting from left most magnetic ring position, keep the beacon mode. Discard the SOS and all the RGB disco color modes leaving just a single blacklight mode for the three outer LEDs. Then the standby- variable power area, maximum detent, and finally end with a strobe. After reading about the Dutch studies that say about 18 Hz is ideal for their use, let's slow the strobe to about there or somewhere between there and the maximal disorientation 12-13 Hz as per Klarus design. Keep a modest crenellated bezel like on the SRT6, and you can let the bezel remain SRT7-sized at 40mm. Wait around until you can throw a U3 binned LED in there and be sure it will ANSI test just past 1000 lumens. Send me three in grey. If you want simpler we can lose the beacon mode, but I might someday actually use that. At maybe 10% duty cycle it is way more practical for emergency signaling than the SOS mode. It might make it through a full night on a fresh battery(ies)
Question: a good anti reflective coating for visible light on a glass or sapphire lens doesn't automatically go opaque for near UV does it? I hear this is sometimes a problem with non-glass lenses and that some plastics just don't do U.V. transmission well.
Discussion?
Question: a good anti reflective coating for visible light on a glass or sapphire lens doesn't automatically go opaque for near UV does it? I hear this is sometimes a problem with non-glass lenses and that some plastics just don't do U.V. transmission well.
Discussion?
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