Regulated incandescent

What would it take to create a regulated incandescent? Been searching through the forum and found almost nothing of any real info. Is there some kind of physical limitation or just an overwhelming led bias ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

bhds

Do a search for "Willie Hunt", i believe he makes PWM regulators for incandescant bulbs. But you're right, they are rare. The Surefire A2 is the only regulated incan that im aware of.

Willie will set you up with an LVR (lightbulb voltage regulator) for your application. They are rather nice if you want to stay with incans, and if the application is right. I highly recommend them for applications where an LED just isn't going to do it for you...

I have two, and I'm workomg on another...

Here's a link to a bike light mod I did with one of Willie's LVR's - here you'll find a link to his website...


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=352458&page=7&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14&fpart=1
John


John

I ran across willies site already during my search. Also read some of your posts illuminated. I'm tempted by the lvr except that the thing is too darn big! I want to be able to regulate a regular small flashlight. I use a G2 at work and absolutely love the output. The only problem is that half way through a set of batteries its not much better than the standard 2 D cells we have. It would be great to have the same level of light every time I turn it on. A led light just wont cut it for the work I do.

Curious as to what the run time of the g2 at 90-100% regulation would be (if there was a regulator for it)I think the Surefire A2 is rated at 50 lumens for 60 minutes, but that includes the 3 leds. A steady 50 lumens for an hour would be killer! So that answers my first question -whether or not its phsically possible. That said the only conclusion I can draw is that there just isnt enough demand for one. Everyone is enamored with the leds.?

The A2 will give you a full incadesant 50 lumens for the entire time stated. It is less than 60 min I think it is more like 45

Funny you mentioned the G2...Willie tells me that the P60 will run for about 90 minutes from 3 x 123. He states that the lamp runs from "normal" at 5.5 volts to "super hot" at 5.8 volts. I'm aiming for "slightly warm" in order to acheive good color temerature while not seriously reducing lamp service life. Don't forget that the LVR output voltage must also account for voltage drop of the P60 spring reistance, plus connections between lamp/batteries/body,etc.
As soon as I figure out exactly what voltage is needed to do this, I'm moving ahead with my project.

I have a G2 plus the AN14 battery extension tube. I believe there's enough room in there to nest an LVR3C directly between th P60 and batteries. The LVR3C is tiny, and I believe I can fit it into the form factor of a short 123 battery. It will require a connection to the internal sleeve of the G2 body in order to work, and I have a few ideas for how to do that. I probably won't use the LVR's dimming feature, so that eliminates the need to access it's onboard pushbutton. G2's tailswitch (or clickie upgrade) will work fine - and also eliminates the 100uA (give or take) off-state current draw, so longer term storage will not present any problems due to that.

I'm glad I'm not the only one not yet ready to totally abandon the incans...

Have fun - John

John, I read your thread on the G3. Cool! I'm more interested in a 2x123 or 1x123 form factor though. But, I also was thinking that a lantern type 4d,6v would be easy to fit the regulator in and be very useful. (I just went through a 4 day power outage last week)

bdhs,

I'd probably have to say that for power outages, LED's are probably the way to go...even an Opalec in whatever host you desire can provide fully regulated output for 8-10 hours, plus more diminishing light for up to 5 additional hours from 2 ordinary alkaline AA's, all in a relatively small package.

Incandescent regulation has its place in the ranks in my opinion. I agree with you about the nice beam of a G2 on fresh batteries. Nice and white, with good sidespill and adequate throw. Then, after 20 minutes or so - I notice the yellowing and reduced output, and it seems to go downhill from there...

Seems to me that the trick to a good LVR3C application is to match the bulb's design voltage with a battery combination that equals the total battery depletion voltage. With the P60 for instance, 3 x 123 is just about gone at 1.8 to 2 volts under load, so it should be just about right for the P60 (5.5-5.6 volts). The LVR will warn of battery depletion before it happens, so the light wouldn't just die suddenly w/o warning. I've had rechargeables that would go from bright to useless in under 60 seconds...

You don't have to worry about any of that if using the LVR3I because the lo-batt warn and optional lo-batt cutoff points are fully programmable for whatever battery config you are using. Works fabulously for my bike light.

If the G2 config isn't to your liking, then perhaps a 2 x 123 config driving a 1 x 123 lamp might be the ticket. Then there are all the possibilities of AA's in a 2D maglight, driving an HPR50, etc.

So many choices...

John