Interesting.
But, as the does SRT7 et cet., it misses the mark. . .
Or, it hits the mark, and just don't have a clue what that mark actually is.
Erm...to use red or blue, you loosen the head, and it automatically comes on in white-red-blue STROBE?!?! - "for your convenience"????
Ok, Sunwayman, listen-up: What you (OK, what "I") want is something comparable to the old SureFire A2.
1. Ditch the blue LED and put in a yellow-green LED. Better yet, put in a pair of red and a pair of yellow green. The YGs should be putting out I'd guess about 1/3 the output of the red LED, given the same drive current, which is good, as 15 lumens is pretty bright when it's pitch black out.
2. Ditch the colored light strobe feature. Seriously, what good is this???? Leave a white locator strobe or SOS if you must, but hide it away. It's useful in the rare instance when it's useful, but I don't want to be wading through it, or trying to avoid it in the UI that I'll be using 99% of the time.
3. Use a neutral-or warm-white, high(er) CRI XM-L2, rather than cool or neutral white. 200 lumens of a decent tint with tolerable color rendering beats 300 lumens of some weird, other-worldly "cool" white.
Now THAT would be a light I'd take into the woods.