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Nitecore HA20 review
Disclaimer: Nitecore have provided me with their HA20 headlamp for testing. I get to keep the light after testing and Nitecore have only asked me to write a review and share the link with them. I've made this review due to my own interest in flashlights and writing reviews and will not receive any extra advantage or payment for doing so. English is not my mother tongue, but I've tried to do my best to correct all the typos. This is my second flashlight/headlamp review.
Introduction
Nitecore HA20 is multi-mode 2xAA, XP-G2 headlamp with die-cast aluminium body (IP67), a 2-stage switch and 2 red LEDs. With 300 lm output it's not a powerhouse, but offers enough illumination for various tasks (my bias being working on a construction site, working indoors and camping). In this review I take a closer look to the headlamp and its specification. I've divided the review in two parts: facts and opinions. Since I've had only one 2xAA headlamp that I've already sold, I cannot safely compare it to any other headlamp that I own. At the end I've reflected my experience with HA20 in use to my experience with my other headlamps. We'll start with the facts though.
Manufacturer's specification
This is copy-and-paste from manufacturer's site:
Max Output 300 lumens
Max Beam Distance 110 m
Max Beam Intensity 3050 cd
Max Run time 160 h 0 m / 6.67 d
LED CREE XP-G2
Reflector SMO
Battery 2 × AA
Special Modes Location Beacon, Slow Flashing, SOS
Beam color White light
Length 90 mm / 3.54 in
Head Size 24 mm / 0.94 in
Weight 61.4 g / 2.17 oz
Feature Dual – Output
Activity Gear, Outdoor/Camping, Search
According to the manual:
Also, according to manual the red LEDs run 7 hours 25 minutes at 16 lumens.
The packing
HA20 comes in a cardboard packing with lights specs (output & runtimes) and recommended use (including Map Reading, Rock Climbing, Climbing and Picnic) printed on.
What's included
The package contains HA20 unit with the holder, headband (detached), extra O-ring (or maybe it should be called square ring), manual sheet and warranty card.
Closer look
HA02 is a dual-source headlamp with Cree XP-G2 and two F5 red LED's. The body is die-cast which is supposed to help with the heat transher and to be more compact than the usual round-shaped bodies.
HA02 has small body that fits in 2 AA batteries. The holder seems huge compared to the body but it is barely big enough to allow you to turn the unit around for battery change. You can also cover the switch with it to prevent accidental activation.
From above
From below
The headlamp is operated by using one dual switch. You can either half press the switch or fully press it. Half press has the feel of an electronic switch with no audible click. The full press has audible click and the feel of a stiff mechanic switch (even though it seems both switches are electronic).
HA20 has die-cast aluminum body but the battery cover is plastic. I've found the best way to change the batteries is to pop out the cover at point presented by the picture, remove the lid and then turn the unit to around to access the batteries.
The cover removed. There are clear + and – signs for right polarity. HA20 has O-ring around battery compartment to protect the electornics from water and dust. According to specs the headlamp is IP67 protected (immersible up to 1 m momentarily).
To test how waterproof the lid is I took a shower with HA20 and sunk it in 20 cm water. After drying the outerior with a towel and opening the lid, I found few drops of water had found their way in. I repeated the test, but couldn't find water inside second time. It's possible the drops got in when I opened the lid. I couldn't find water on the batteries or the electronics in either case.
Batteries in. Every time batteries are inserted into the flashlight the red LEDs flash according to the battery voltage (2 flashes, pause, 5 flashesh for my Ni-Mhs). Nitecore recommends primary AA batteries or rechargeable AA batteries (Ni-MH). For some reason lithium primaries (L91) are not recommended but listed as compatible.
Edit: Safety precaution: As noted by my TeamSpeak friend, there is possibility of reverse polarity on high modes or when using poor quality cells leading to possibly one of the cells venting. With the plastic battery cover it will not be lethal, but I should be cautious to use any cells connected to series attached to my head. I recommend using Eneloops or alkalines with same state of usage and voltage.
Battery cover replaced. The little 'nail' on top of the cover prevents the unit from accidentally turning around so the switch stays covered when you e.g. carry the headlamp in you backpack..
The headband is easy to install due to big holes but unfortunately the holes are too big: the headband runs quite freely through the holder if you shake your head.
The over-the-head strap brings you more steadier feeling of the headlamp and helps with balancing the weight
The Beamshots
My camera seems to have broken so I had to use the camera in my mobile phone. Here are some pictures with mid mode with different exposure times. Pictures are taken with automatic whitebalance so do nyt rely on the pictures when considering the tint.
As you might have guessed from the 110m throw, HA20 has very hard hotspot but it has nice even spill. The hotspot has a little ring in the middle of it.
Comparison with Armytek Wizard.
Tint comparison with my new Jaxman E2 (5700 K, HI CRI) on right. Due to autowhitebalance this comparison is relative only. I'd say the hotspot in HA20 is greenish and the tint shifts to purpleish outside the hotspot.
The red LEDs on
To diffuse the beam, I added a piece of Scotch tape over the unit.
The beam with DIY diffuser
Usage, UI, modes and features
Ok... This headlamp has modes. As previously mentioned the headlamp is operated by using one dual switch. You can either half press the switch or fully press it. Half press has the feel of an electronic switch with no audible click. The full press has audible click and the feel of a stiff mechanic switch (even though it seems both switches are electronic). The full press switch is so stiff there is no chance of accidentally pressing the full press instead of half press. The basic operation is easy: full press for on/off, half press for mode switch, long presses for special modes (red and flashing modes). Long half press for the secondary red LEDs might feel unintuitive, but I guess it's set so to protec the headlamp to turn on accidentally.
From off:
Half press: Quick battery test. Flashes the red LEDs. Three times for battery level over 50%, twice for below 50% and once for close to depletion.
Full press: Turns on the white LED with the previous used constant mode on (so called 'memory effect').
Long half press: Turns on the red LEDs.
Long full press: Turns on the white LED on with max mode
From red LEDs on:
Half press: cycles through constant and flashing mode.
Full press: turns the light off
From white LED on:
Half press: cycles through modes moonlight – low – med – high – max
Full press: turns the LED off
Long full press: turns on the flashing modes. First police warning (~1 hz strobe) and then after half presses: beacon and SOS.
Voltage meter: Every time the batteries are inserted the red LEDs will flash to indicate the battery voltage (accurate to 0.1 V). E.g. in my case 2.5 V = 2 blinks, 1.5 sec pause, 5 blinks.
Advanced Temperature Regulation: According to the manual ATR tchnology allows HA20 to dynamically adjust output performance based on its internal temperature. I ran the headlamp on max mode for 5 minutes. I didn't notice the unit get too hot or the headlamp to drop down to lower mode (whereas my EC4SW with its ATR felt almost too hot to touch when I ran it on turbo mode when taking the pictures). The die-cast body seems to do good job transfering the heat.
I didn't detect PWM on any of the modes (by shaking nor by fan test).
Opinions
The 2AA battery option, red LEDs and low price make HA20 appealing choice of headlamp for camping and hiking. Maybe hiking in the mind Nitecore have chosen XP-G2 emitter which has throwier beam than e.g. XM-L2. I prefer my headlamps more floody so I made a diffuser out of a piece of Scotch tape. I find the beam more usable with the diffuser as I don't have to turn my head every time to have the hotspot on the thing which I'm focusing on.
The weight seem to be another issue for me. With two Eneloops, HA20 feels heavier for my neck than my 18650-powered Wizard. This is maybe due to the fact that the unit protrudes so far from the forehead causing more moment. Using lithium primaries in the headlamp might ease with the weight. I will have to test the headlamp on my hard cap also, maybe the weight might help balance the weight of the ear protection. On the other hand, the aluminum die-cast body makes the headlamp sturdy enough for construction sites. It also helps with the heat transfer and thus the headlamp offers good runtimes on 30 lm and 90 lm modes (according to specs). It also seems to put out constant 300 lm on the turbo mode without dropdown.
I really like the dual-switch UI, but 5 modes in a 300 lm headlamp feels excessive and I wish they had reconsidered the mode spacing since the jump from moonlight to low feels so high (e.g 1, 15, 60, 160, 300). On the other hand, with the DIY diffuser I find moonlight mode is enough for walking in dark apartment or reading and low mode enough for actually working in the dark. Moonlight mode is a nice feature and I wish the UI had direct acces to it from off instead of max mode. To preserve your night vision you can direct acces to red light mode from off (though it's debatable if the 19 lm red LEDs are too bright to break your night vision).
The battery cover is pretty hard to remove or put back on if you're in the dark/blindfold. Even in lit conditions finding the right technique for the battery change needs some training.
Summary:
Pros
+ good runtimes
+ dual-switch
+ die-cast body
+ moonlight mode
Cons
- feels heavy with 2 Eneloops
- too tight hotspot for me
- no direct acces to moonlight
Conclusion
I'm still waiting for my chance to get my hands on Fenix HL35, but without this comparison available I'd say I find HA20 a good addition to 2xAA headlamp class.
Would I recommend it?
I need more testing in the nature, but I might recommend the headlamp for a hiker who is looking for 2AA headlamp. I also believe HA20 will make a good headlamp for construction site but it needs a (DIY) diffuser. I would also recommend considering other options in this 2AA battery class, e.g. Fenix HL30 and HL35, Spark SD52, Petzl Pixa 3 but also 1AA options by Armytek and Zebralight. I think this headlamp will make a good gift for my room mate replacing his old 3AAA headlamp.
Nitecore HA20 review
Disclaimer: Nitecore have provided me with their HA20 headlamp for testing. I get to keep the light after testing and Nitecore have only asked me to write a review and share the link with them. I've made this review due to my own interest in flashlights and writing reviews and will not receive any extra advantage or payment for doing so. English is not my mother tongue, but I've tried to do my best to correct all the typos. This is my second flashlight/headlamp review.
Introduction
Nitecore HA20 is multi-mode 2xAA, XP-G2 headlamp with die-cast aluminium body (IP67), a 2-stage switch and 2 red LEDs. With 300 lm output it's not a powerhouse, but offers enough illumination for various tasks (my bias being working on a construction site, working indoors and camping). In this review I take a closer look to the headlamp and its specification. I've divided the review in two parts: facts and opinions. Since I've had only one 2xAA headlamp that I've already sold, I cannot safely compare it to any other headlamp that I own. At the end I've reflected my experience with HA20 in use to my experience with my other headlamps. We'll start with the facts though.
Manufacturer's specification
This is copy-and-paste from manufacturer's site:
Max Output 300 lumens
Max Beam Distance 110 m
Max Beam Intensity 3050 cd
Max Run time 160 h 0 m / 6.67 d
LED CREE XP-G2
Reflector SMO
Battery 2 × AA
Special Modes Location Beacon, Slow Flashing, SOS
Beam color White light
Length 90 mm / 3.54 in
Head Size 24 mm / 0.94 in
Weight 61.4 g / 2.17 oz
Feature Dual – Output
Activity Gear, Outdoor/Camping, Search
According to the manual:
Also, according to manual the red LEDs run 7 hours 25 minutes at 16 lumens.
The packing
HA20 comes in a cardboard packing with lights specs (output & runtimes) and recommended use (including Map Reading, Rock Climbing, Climbing and Picnic) printed on.
What's included
The package contains HA20 unit with the holder, headband (detached), extra O-ring (or maybe it should be called square ring), manual sheet and warranty card.
Closer look
HA02 is a dual-source headlamp with Cree XP-G2 and two F5 red LED's. The body is die-cast which is supposed to help with the heat transher and to be more compact than the usual round-shaped bodies.
HA02 has small body that fits in 2 AA batteries. The holder seems huge compared to the body but it is barely big enough to allow you to turn the unit around for battery change. You can also cover the switch with it to prevent accidental activation.
From above
From below
The headlamp is operated by using one dual switch. You can either half press the switch or fully press it. Half press has the feel of an electronic switch with no audible click. The full press has audible click and the feel of a stiff mechanic switch (even though it seems both switches are electronic).
HA20 has die-cast aluminum body but the battery cover is plastic. I've found the best way to change the batteries is to pop out the cover at point presented by the picture, remove the lid and then turn the unit to around to access the batteries.
The cover removed. There are clear + and – signs for right polarity. HA20 has O-ring around battery compartment to protect the electornics from water and dust. According to specs the headlamp is IP67 protected (immersible up to 1 m momentarily).
To test how waterproof the lid is I took a shower with HA20 and sunk it in 20 cm water. After drying the outerior with a towel and opening the lid, I found few drops of water had found their way in. I repeated the test, but couldn't find water inside second time. It's possible the drops got in when I opened the lid. I couldn't find water on the batteries or the electronics in either case.
Batteries in. Every time batteries are inserted into the flashlight the red LEDs flash according to the battery voltage (2 flashes, pause, 5 flashesh for my Ni-Mhs). Nitecore recommends primary AA batteries or rechargeable AA batteries (Ni-MH). For some reason lithium primaries (L91) are not recommended but listed as compatible.
Edit: Safety precaution: As noted by my TeamSpeak friend, there is possibility of reverse polarity on high modes or when using poor quality cells leading to possibly one of the cells venting. With the plastic battery cover it will not be lethal, but I should be cautious to use any cells connected to series attached to my head. I recommend using Eneloops or alkalines with same state of usage and voltage.
Battery cover replaced. The little 'nail' on top of the cover prevents the unit from accidentally turning around so the switch stays covered when you e.g. carry the headlamp in you backpack..
The headband is easy to install due to big holes but unfortunately the holes are too big: the headband runs quite freely through the holder if you shake your head.
The over-the-head strap brings you more steadier feeling of the headlamp and helps with balancing the weight
The Beamshots
My camera seems to have broken so I had to use the camera in my mobile phone. Here are some pictures with mid mode with different exposure times. Pictures are taken with automatic whitebalance so do nyt rely on the pictures when considering the tint.
As you might have guessed from the 110m throw, HA20 has very hard hotspot but it has nice even spill. The hotspot has a little ring in the middle of it.
Comparison with Armytek Wizard.
Tint comparison with my new Jaxman E2 (5700 K, HI CRI) on right. Due to autowhitebalance this comparison is relative only. I'd say the hotspot in HA20 is greenish and the tint shifts to purpleish outside the hotspot.
The red LEDs on
To diffuse the beam, I added a piece of Scotch tape over the unit.
The beam with DIY diffuser
Usage, UI, modes and features
Ok... This headlamp has modes. As previously mentioned the headlamp is operated by using one dual switch. You can either half press the switch or fully press it. Half press has the feel of an electronic switch with no audible click. The full press has audible click and the feel of a stiff mechanic switch (even though it seems both switches are electronic). The full press switch is so stiff there is no chance of accidentally pressing the full press instead of half press. The basic operation is easy: full press for on/off, half press for mode switch, long presses for special modes (red and flashing modes). Long half press for the secondary red LEDs might feel unintuitive, but I guess it's set so to protec the headlamp to turn on accidentally.
From off:
Half press: Quick battery test. Flashes the red LEDs. Three times for battery level over 50%, twice for below 50% and once for close to depletion.
Full press: Turns on the white LED with the previous used constant mode on (so called 'memory effect').
Long half press: Turns on the red LEDs.
Long full press: Turns on the white LED on with max mode
From red LEDs on:
Half press: cycles through constant and flashing mode.
Full press: turns the light off
From white LED on:
Half press: cycles through modes moonlight – low – med – high – max
Full press: turns the LED off
Long full press: turns on the flashing modes. First police warning (~1 hz strobe) and then after half presses: beacon and SOS.
Voltage meter: Every time the batteries are inserted the red LEDs will flash to indicate the battery voltage (accurate to 0.1 V). E.g. in my case 2.5 V = 2 blinks, 1.5 sec pause, 5 blinks.
Advanced Temperature Regulation: According to the manual ATR tchnology allows HA20 to dynamically adjust output performance based on its internal temperature. I ran the headlamp on max mode for 5 minutes. I didn't notice the unit get too hot or the headlamp to drop down to lower mode (whereas my EC4SW with its ATR felt almost too hot to touch when I ran it on turbo mode when taking the pictures). The die-cast body seems to do good job transfering the heat.
I didn't detect PWM on any of the modes (by shaking nor by fan test).
Opinions
The 2AA battery option, red LEDs and low price make HA20 appealing choice of headlamp for camping and hiking. Maybe hiking in the mind Nitecore have chosen XP-G2 emitter which has throwier beam than e.g. XM-L2. I prefer my headlamps more floody so I made a diffuser out of a piece of Scotch tape. I find the beam more usable with the diffuser as I don't have to turn my head every time to have the hotspot on the thing which I'm focusing on.
The weight seem to be another issue for me. With two Eneloops, HA20 feels heavier for my neck than my 18650-powered Wizard. This is maybe due to the fact that the unit protrudes so far from the forehead causing more moment. Using lithium primaries in the headlamp might ease with the weight. I will have to test the headlamp on my hard cap also, maybe the weight might help balance the weight of the ear protection. On the other hand, the aluminum die-cast body makes the headlamp sturdy enough for construction sites. It also helps with the heat transfer and thus the headlamp offers good runtimes on 30 lm and 90 lm modes (according to specs). It also seems to put out constant 300 lm on the turbo mode without dropdown.
I really like the dual-switch UI, but 5 modes in a 300 lm headlamp feels excessive and I wish they had reconsidered the mode spacing since the jump from moonlight to low feels so high (e.g 1, 15, 60, 160, 300). On the other hand, with the DIY diffuser I find moonlight mode is enough for walking in dark apartment or reading and low mode enough for actually working in the dark. Moonlight mode is a nice feature and I wish the UI had direct acces to it from off instead of max mode. To preserve your night vision you can direct acces to red light mode from off (though it's debatable if the 19 lm red LEDs are too bright to break your night vision).
The battery cover is pretty hard to remove or put back on if you're in the dark/blindfold. Even in lit conditions finding the right technique for the battery change needs some training.
Summary:
Pros
+ good runtimes
+ dual-switch
+ die-cast body
+ moonlight mode
Cons
- feels heavy with 2 Eneloops
- too tight hotspot for me
- no direct acces to moonlight
Conclusion
I'm still waiting for my chance to get my hands on Fenix HL35, but without this comparison available I'd say I find HA20 a good addition to 2xAA headlamp class.
Would I recommend it?
I need more testing in the nature, but I might recommend the headlamp for a hiker who is looking for 2AA headlamp. I also believe HA20 will make a good headlamp for construction site but it needs a (DIY) diffuser. I would also recommend considering other options in this 2AA battery class, e.g. Fenix HL30 and HL35, Spark SD52, Petzl Pixa 3 but also 1AA options by Armytek and Zebralight. I think this headlamp will make a good gift for my room mate replacing his old 3AAA headlamp.
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