Sold/Expired *CLOSED* Molex connectorized wires

*CLOSED*

Due to the discovery of the mag bi-pin drop-in Mag/MC hybrid, this option is superfluous and I am closing this thread and will no longer be selling these things.

*****

A long, long time ago (it seems) I started an ambitious thread on making a drop-in replacement for the mag D cell lights switch/pedetal assy. There were many twists and turns, but skipping to the end of it all, I have concluded that the best solution is to modify the switch/pedestal assy the OA4D cookbook way, with molex connectors on the ends of the two wires. Check out the link, but essentially you just cut off the pedestal and solder wires onto the proper spots. Then run the wires--which have molex connectors on the ends--to bi-pin lamp leads.

This requires a Carley 1940 reflector and one of my ring-potted lamps, or the metal sleeve which Carley sells that allows you to secure one of their lamps into a set-screw reflector (such as the 1940).

There are many ways to do an incan mod, and this is only one of them. But in case people are interested, I am selling the following items for this method:

1. Bare molex connectors. 25 cents each if you send me a SASE (PM me for my address please). Or add 40 cents for shipping otherwise. These are what the TigerLight uses, and they are conservatively rated to 3 amps, but I have run 3.6 amps through them without any trouble.

2. Bare MIL-MAX connectors. 20 cents each with SASE, or add 40 cents for shipping. These are better than the Molex connectors for making up a socket, or bi-in to PR base adaptor, because they are enclosed and sealed. Unfortunately this makes it harder to attach wires to them.

3. Molex connectorized wires: For those who want me to do it all, I am selling completed pairs of red and black high strand count silicone insulated 20 gauge wires with the Molex connectors crimped and soldered on, and with shrink wrap. This wire is really nice stuff and is very flexible due to the high strand count and the silicone insulation (which is good to 200 degrees C). Cost is $3 shipped.

The picture below shows all of the products mentioned. The MIL-MAX connectors are the ones which look like minature tubes or barrels, towards the top left of the picture. Oops! and some spurious shrink wrap got in there in the upper right. Ignore it.

image removed

And once you install and solder them, you would connect them to a 1940 w/ lamp like so:

image removed

I accept PayPal, personal checks, money orders, or loose cash /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. However, if you want to use PayPal, please add 3 percent plus 30 cents to the order.

All items will be sent USPS first class mail with no special services or guarantees.

I will be opening a separate thread for ring-potted lamps. For those wanting ring-potted lamps for their Mag incan mods, I will need you to send me the lamps to be potted, as the WA lamps I have on hand are all reserved for TigerLight mod owners. Cost to ring-pot a lamp will be $5 per lamp, plus shipping.

Please post orders here, and note that I want to sell small quantities only as a service to CPFers. If you want more than half a dozen, spring for it and buy yourself a bag of 100 for $15 plus shipping from Newark electronics, or organize a Group Buy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

Thanks everyone.

*CLOSED*

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy mod

BTT

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy mod

BTT2

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy mod

BTT3

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

BTT4.

People are occasionally buying these from me, but they are not posting to this thread, so it keeps sinking like a rock. Hence the multiplem but infrequent, bumps.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

flashaholics sure are an impatient bunch...maybe too much caffeine, js?

Dropping like a rock, huh? You do have your preferences set to display 50 thread/posts at a time don't you?

Could also be the pics are...umm, well you need good pics to be informative and inspire. Or maybe there are lots of us, like me, who are a wee bit dense and need step by step pictorial tutorials to visualize the build process. With step by step clear and concise explanation of how to put this into operation for whatever lights in question? Yeah, I know you have a picture for one reflector with the connectors on it. But what about pictures of other uses, that could be done...show us a few pictures of each of the other lights where you have used these with.

Here, I Photoshop enhanced your picture, cause I couldn't make much sense out of it, everything is way too small (see my macro lens close-up bulb pics on the 8AA-2D adapters threads in the Reviews section). What, you did not spend 1/2-1hr handholding a light up in the air in various positions, after you turned the flash off on the camera and set white balance for incandescent for each image; then spent another 1/2-1hr per pic to Photoshop enhance each...like I have done with my soon to be posted thread on cleaning the M*g contacts /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif?


I have some ideas for the enhancement/mod/replacment of parts of the switch assembly, but too busy with that darned lengthy contacts cleaning tutorial which I must get done today...umm, you can wait another week can't you?

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

PM sent to request quote for parts and advice.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

PM sent to request quote for parts and advice.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

PM sent to request quote for parts and advice.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

PM sent to request quote for parts and advice.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

PM sent to request quote for parts and advice.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

udaman,

Yeah. Sorry about the poor quality photo. I still don't know how to take good digital photos (or regular type photos for that matter). You've got the MIL-MAX properly circled. To the right of them are the Molex connectors. And to the right of them is some shrink tubing. Below all of that is a pair of molex connectorized wires with shrink tubing over the Molex connectors. Everything else is a burn mark of one sort or another, due to me soldering something resting on top of my wooden work bench.

A tutorial is a really good idea, but I was under the impression that the OA4D cookbook link covered things pretty well. Do you disagree?

In any case, I could certainly provide a tutorial post with pictures and directions. Any chance you'd want to enhance my raw photos for me?

JimH,

PM reply in the works. Have to research a few things first.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

I'll take two completed #3 sets, if still available. PM sent

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

[ QUOTE ]
js said:
udaman,

Yeah. Sorry about the poor quality photo. I still don't know how to take good digital photos (or regular type photos for that matter). You've got the MIL-MAX properly circled. To the right of them are the Molex connectors. And to the right of them is some shrink tubing. Below all of that is a pair of molex connectorized wires with shrink tubing over the Molex connectors. Everything else is a burn mark of one sort or another, due to me soldering something resting on top of my wooden work bench.

A tutorial is a really good idea, but I was under the impression that the OA4D cookbook link covered things pretty well. Do you disagree?

In any case, I could certainly provide a tutorial post with pictures and directions. Any chance you'd want to enhance my raw photos for me?

JimH,

PM reply in the works. Have to research a few things first.

[/ QUOTE ]

Darn js,

my bad eyesight and wishful thinking, led me to think there was a Mil-spec, gold plated RS-232 single female connector socket/pin down below. Just thinking from having used them years ago, they might just be the same diameter as the larger bi-pin wire leads?

Raw photos can only be enhanced so much, you have to start out with 1/2-decent photos to begin with. I tried to fix up some of Jet22's pics, but those were damn near hopelessly bad after 10-20 minutes of tinkering.

Still, I can do a little bit better job with exposure, color compensation to picts like bwaites' inexpensive digicam shots, but if you don't get in close enough like these photos and the flash washes out the exposure you're sunk. Underexposure is easier to compensate for than detail that is completely lost in areas of highlights washed out by flash over-exposure---if you have a manual override, you always take bracketed exposures, film users are used to doing that. You cannot enlarge them to any degree; unless you start with high quality sharp lens, like those used on the expensive SLR digicams, and combine with at least 4Mpixel images.

Hmmm, OAD cookbook covered it all---hehe, guess you've never owned an older British sports car then (infamous for all sorts of hellaciously bad demonic electrical gremlins /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)? But I like my pics and 'tools of the trade' better ;-). Anyway, let's see how much you have gleaned from that info. There are a total of how many loose-nonbonded; potentially weak/subject to, corrosion-oxidation points in the M*g2D electrical circuit path, not including the point in between the two D-Cell batteries (there are a lot!)??? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif Besides, those few picts of slice-and-dice crude chopping up of the complex design of the M*g switch assembly, kind of makes me cringe. Those where for the purpose of doing a LED mod-ghast! Hehe, LED's...when they hit 100lm/w of 3w or greater, I'll be interested in that kind of hacking up of the switch assembly. Until then, I'm still pondering the other possibilities of tweaking what is already there...if it ain't broke, why try to re-invent the wheel? More along the lines of Tim Allen's comedy routines...dishwasher, kitchen sink garbage disposal, lawnmower engine...not enough power, so I TURBOCHARGED those babies! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif (Arggh! Arggh!, primitive man/ape-like grunting approval).

And what about the M*gC bodies? I'm taking/demolishing that switch apart next week, after I order that and a new M*gChr switch assembly; to post an update to my thread, just for ideas. What about the M*gChr, looks like Ginseng has not much interest in taking one of them down to pieces for inspection-idea formulating?

OT speaking of the M*gChr, Ginseng just mentioned in another thread after needling, I mean nudging, by me (apparently not having read your lathe turned, fixed focus 1940 thread recently) and wanted a link to obtain the M*gChr switch assembly, saying that some unspecified "Jim" person was working on installing the M*gChr 'switch' (assuming he's referring to the entire switch assembly) into the standard D body, I think for the S4MadMan 'Mini-Aurora' project of early this year. Umm, come come now js---you've been holding out on us /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif; I thought you and Ginny belong to the Brotherhood of M*glite Anti-Cammed Operation--what's this turn around all about?

I don't mind giving it a try to enhance anyone's pictures, add in some text overlay, but I have to finish my long overdue 'cleaning contacts' thread, because I'll be using some of those detail pictures to try and garner ideas for tweaking what is there already, and perhaps replacing some or all of the components as possible or desirable. I think you can get most of these simple image editing tools I use from the full version of Photoshop, in the under $100 Photoshop Elements package, but I'm not sure about that. But it's like a camera, operator experience separates excellence from the status quo.

Also, if there are any additional angle shots, or helpful part identifications/explanations from my pictures, I'll solicit those to refine the tutorial. And most importantly, I Photoshop compress to minimal sizes, all higher-resolution pics for faster viewing- those unfortunate souls like me who have dog slow internet connections /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif, really appreciate that.

A preview observation. We see nice secure connections from js's potted 1940 reflector-LA, quality wire and connectors. It is analogous to connecting super heavy-weight gauge, premium soft flexing/high strand count, positive battery cables from the automobile battery to the alternator, using expensive gold-plated termination. Nice, now is that a brand new automobile you are doing this upgrade to; and are there other points of corrosion/poor or weak/loose connections that prevent the full potential of maximum current flows throughout the whole circuit? Has the OA4D Cookbook adequately addressed all of those points with suggested tweaking? Maybe there is another way to use those gold plated connectors, maybe we can come up with some ideas on your other thread, or will you be starting a thread on the M*gChr switch assembly mods?

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

oodles,

You can do this or not, and you can like it or not. It's all good for me. Whatever floats your boat.

But what I CAN tell you is that bwaites is using the mag switch core, w/o the pedestal in his Mule and is pushing 10 amps, and has had no problems. So, this would strongly suggest that there is very little resistance in the switch core, for otherwise, it would have burnt up by now.

I will not be starting another thread on mag switch assy mods. In fact I am inclined to can this one. Almost no one is interested in it, and it just means more work for me in maintaining it and in potting up the extra bulbs for those who are doing the mag mods. I'll see. For now it will stay active, but if anyone wants some of this stuff, now would be the time to get it.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

No, read carefully, I meant the M*gChr thingy, putting the M*gChr switch assembly into the D-cell body; you are working on that correct? And there are no known threads with pictures showing that AFAIK, yes? So why even work on installing M*gChr switch assembly into a D-cell M*g, with no pictures or documentation on that mod? Geez, if it works, I'll post instructions and pictures after I order the $11 M*gChr assembly. That's got to be one of the lowest, coversion mods I know of...But you then need a M*gChr reflector to retain cammed operation, and how does it fit into the standard M*gD-cell head??? Pictures, we need pictures! Yeah, and what about the C-cell, anybody interested in that? Oh well, I walk alone it seems...C-cell M*g-body is my preference of choice, as you know.

While js & Ginseng, & high-end power guys like bwaites, FNinjaP90, theepdinker, hold up the $300 range; there are others at the low-end; Kiu's solution is interesting, but no cammed operation build a plug-in base for 1185. IIRC, the Mule will cost more than $300, has custom this and custom that--no patented cammed operation and so fort, does not use the same electrical contacts pathway as the lowly MuGlite, so the fact that it is using a M*gD-cell switch is a false comparison---assuming arguendo that such bulb in the Mule can be accurately measured to be realistically drawing 10a through the M*g switch. There are still those few /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif lowly standard MuGlite users, looking for maximum lumens, in a cheap thrills package. Robin Hood I am, I guess /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Pictures help illustrate the points better than this /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif.

Surely it would be a shame if the high-end modders (once upon a time, a year or two ago they were not so high-end) don't share their valuable insight and prior experience to help out the low end modders. Mr. Bulk, bless his 'textually challenged' soul, kindred spirit; still likes to do less than $10 plastic Baglite mods, while at the same time pushing the envelope with his very impressive high-end LED's.

10amps, maybe so, 10a at 12v??? through automobile wiring not designed for more than 8a, results in some very hot wires. So when they get this hot, hmmm, I wonder why those people that sell the upgrade kits with heavier gauge wire, tell you that if you want MAXIMUM current flows going to the bulb so that the bulb burns brighest; you get the thicker wires, with heavy duty relays, connect directly to the battery?...but what do I know about floating boats and what not, I can't even swim /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Talk to me about Enzo's and JA-now that's something I know a little about /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Back to work on photos of the M*g D switch innards, back to work on ordering and tearing down the M*gC switch assembly, the M*gChr switch assembly too. Care to have me take a test drive of the Mule? Will bwaites mind if I tinker with the bottom of the M*g switch assembly, they only cost $6 each. Anyone have a lux meter I can borrow? If bwaites is running a completely unmodified/stock lower M*gD switch assembly(not just the switch itself), with my bad eyesight and warped perceptions, I see areas that sure don't look conducive to MAXIMUM current flows.

I'll have to ask bwaites how he is measuring the current flows, at what points, under what conditions then...or bwaites can send me the Mule, let me I tinker with it just a bit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/evilgrin07.gif Hmm, the resistance in a M*g running off AA NiMH batteries in Ginseng's M*gChr that bwaites has, will be what?? The same as the resistance for the instaflashed WA1185's with 1/2D 3.5a AeroNiMH? js himself tested high-current RC type cells with the WA1185 for the TL85, confident in the WA1185. Same with Ginseng, his reply "maybe" to my worries that extender tubes using bad-*** 1/2 4ah AeroNiMH cells, might strain the WA1185 too much. Same Muglite correct? No, LedmodMan must have been wrong, the minimal difference in resistance on a puny 3-4a current draw bulb like the Wa1185 shouldn't have any effect /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif. LedmodMan's boat sank /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Sun Tzu, apply those philosophies. There is a method to my madness, even if not always (mostly) not apparent.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

udaman,

All of this conversation is not appropriate in a B/S/T thread!

I understood about the MagCharger switch/pedestal assy conversion.

I was just saying that if someone buys a $9 or $12 ring-potted lamp from me, and a $3 pair of molex connectorized wires, and a $8 or $9 Carley RF1940, and a $18 to $20 maglite and a couple AA to D adaptors, and a $7 UCL, then he could have 500+ lumens out the front of the light for $45 to $51 plus the cost of the adaptors and batteries. No need to buy a Mag Charger switch. No need to wait for Carley to pot WA lamps into PR bases. And no heat issues, because there is no pedestal to melt: you can't melt what's not there.

The downside is the loss of focusing on the fly (which I couldn't care less about) and the need to find good AA to D adaptors.

Or the other option is to use a pre-made battery pack from someone like AERO or CheapBatteryPacks.com, and skip the adaptors.

The mag switch core WILL handle the 3-4 amps required by the various WA superbulbs.

So don't tell me I'm not holding up the low-end! Make that the last time you dig me in that way, udaman. The only other thing I could do would be to start some group-buy, js build-run thread where I end-to-end solder up the battery packs, mod the pedestals and reflectors, and pot the bulbs, and buy them in the first place from WA and Carley.

At the moment I don't have time to do that.

And for the record, out of the 14 Tiger85's which are out in the field, only about 4 or 5 1185's have flashed hot off the charger so far. I told people from the beginning that this was a danger and a possibility. Everyone knew about it.

And you have said "I told you so" about fourteen thousand times now. Frankly, I'm getting sick of it, udaman. I apologized to you twice already. STOP! ENOUGH ALREADY! OK? Can we move on now?

If you don't like what I'm doing or the services I'm offering, maybe you should try to keep it to yourself, or restrict it to PM's. Please.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

Jim,

Check your PM's. I need your paypal address.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

[ QUOTE ]
JimH said:
Jim,

Check your PM's. I need your paypal address.

[/ QUOTE ]

Info is in the first post above, but I replied to your PM in any event.

Re: Molex connectorized wires for Mag switch assy

Just a heads-up, because everything still needs to be nailed down and fine-tuned, but I am working on ring-potting the larger Osram lamps, such as the 62138 and 64440 and 64447. I have found good "molex" type connectors for the 1 mm dia pins of these lamps, which are rated to 9.5 amps. The fixture rings will be 5/8" o.d. and thus the Carley reflectors will need to have their bores enlarged for this scheme to work, but that's not too dificult to do.

Also, for those who are interested in buying any of this stuff, PLEASE don't forget to add the 3 percent plus 30 cents for PayPal payments.