what will happen if it make a direct drive light engine with a 1 or 2 ohm resistor and then put a 15 ohm resistor in the two stage tailcap? will the two-stage tailcap still do it's job?
you set the primary resistor to get your maximum brightness,and the tail cap resistor goes in series with the primary resistor.. so.. techincally if you wanted 15 ohms for 'low' you would use say a 2ohm for main and a 13 for 'low'.. not too likely to find a 13 ohm resistor but that's the principal.
[ QUOTE ] Wildcat said:
what will happen if it make a direct drive light engine with a 1 or 2 ohm resistor and then put a 15 ohm resistor in the two stage tailcap? will the two-stage tailcap still do it's job?
Thanks
[/ QUOTE ]
I have some special order 2 ohm, 10 ohm, and 25 ohm resistors coming from an aerospace supplier. They are SMD 1206 size (nominal 3mm long x 1.6 wide) and are capable of (many) watts as opposed to the normal 1206 size which can handle 1/4 watt.
[ QUOTE ] HarryN said:
I have some special order 2 ohm, 10 ohm, and 25 ohm resistors coming from an aerospace supplier. They are SMD 1206 size (nominal 3mm long x 1.6 wide) and are capable of (many) watts as opposed to the normal 1206 size which can handle 1/4 watt.
Let me know if you need some. HarryN
[/ QUOTE ]
That's some part, Harry. Watts is Watts. There'd better be some serious heat sinking going on, consider what you need to do to get a few Watts out of a Luxeon emitter....
Fortunately, I only need to remove 1-2 watts, so it is not so bad. People that know me have observed my slight tendency toward having "robustness" in my designs.
In this particular, case, I could not find an AlOx based part that went over 1/2 watt, and the two options were BeOx based and AlN based. BeOx is under health pressures, so AlN became the obvious choice.
I have heat sinked the resistor in a similar manner to the Luxeon.