Battery explosion with Fenix P1D

ltiu

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
1,344
Location
Texas
I am also panicing.
I have always got either a P3DCE/L1DCE/L2DCE all on lithiums.
Should I be worried ???
I also carry spare AAA/AA/CR123A in the car, do I need to be concerned ???

Chances are, it's probably like winning the lottery. But someone's got to win and someone always wins!
 

ltiu

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
1,344
Location
Texas
Re: Fenix P1D after battery explosion

Not that this is a battery review...but I've been using Titanium batteries in quite a few different lights (both factory and mods) with no problems.

Titanium? ... assuming you are talking about Energizer Titanium batteries are pumped up versions of alkalines and are not lithiums.
 

LED61

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 18, 2006
Messages
1,085
Location
Central America
Re: Fenix P1D after battery explosion

Hello SoSa,

Glad to hear that you are OK.

I am not sure what happened, but a wild guess is that the cell shorted out internally causing it to rapidly vent.

Tom

Hi Tom

Do you think brand name cells like Duracell will have its protection circuit defend us from an internal short ?
 

SilverFox

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 19, 2003
Messages
12,449
Location
Bellingham WA
Re: Fenix P1D after battery explosion

Hello Alberto,

I believe the PTC is supposed to protect against this type of event. EDIT: I am off base here. MorePower pointed out in a response below that the PTC protects against external shorts. It does not help with internal shorts or thermal runaway. See post #72. ENDEDIT:

I am not sure if the brand that failed uses a PTC device, but all of the name brand cells do as well as some of the others. The Titanium cells originally did not have a PTC with the first batches that were sold, but they were added on subsequent batches. I believe all the BatteryStation cells are also PTC protected.

The PTC does add additional cost to the cell, so those who are looking for only the cheapest price may be at additional risk.

Tom
 
Last edited:

Sable

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Messages
454
Location
Arizona
How curious.

I suppose (like others) that extraordinarily poorly-constructed batteries could suffer from internal shorting when thermal expansion causes parts of the battery that ought not contact to contact...which would explain why the light would have stayed on for a period of time, but only blew when left standing.

I think this one can be alleviated completely by staying away from, again as others have said, poor-quality batteries. I don't have any apprehension about using my Energizer/Duracell/Batterystation/etc. lithium batteries after this, my own self. This was, as far as we're aware, an isolated incident using a very poor-quality cell. No reason to be worried about a widespread problem or freak out.
 

LuxLuthor

Flashaholic
Joined
Nov 5, 2005
Messages
10,654
Location
MS
As far as I am aware, primary lithium cells (non-rechargeable) from a quality manufacturer have the best track record, but always best to stop when you first notice ANY dimming of bulb. Once you get into rechargeable LiPo/Li-Ion, your risk level goes up....and it is best to buy protected batteries that open the battery circuit if voltage gets too low (or too high with charging), or too hot.

Even with this incident which can be likely blamed on going for the cheapest version where that company has poor supervision/quality control guidelines, most of the lithium cell problems are from charging.

One exception to that is the recalled laptop Lithium cell packs that started fires from some combination of poor pack/cell design, poorly insulated and structurally protected batteries from adjacent structures, lack of cell balancing, etc.

I personally would not be scared or panicked about using a QUALITY name cell as long as you are able to drop a light and move away from it for safety. Remember most cell phone and laptop batteries on airplanes are lithium...so this sort of thing is much less likely to happen unless you try to buy the cheapest crap cells around.
 

Illum

Flashaholic
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
13,053
Location
Central Florida, USA
Re: Fenix P1D after battery explosion

I can understand how a light with two batteries might explode, but how does this happen with a single battery light?

lets hope its just a crappy cell

something tells me our previously established conclusion of cells consisting of different remaining capacities reverse-charging each other is only a partial conclusion:eek:oo::whistle:

Chances are, it's probably like winning the lottery. But someone's got to win and someone always wins!

only with batteries, when you win, you lose :ohgeez:

Titanium? ... assuming you are talking about Energizer Titanium batteries are pumped up versions of alkalines and are not lithiums.

I think hes referring to Titanium brand lithium cells
see here: http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/titanium_123a.htm
 
Last edited:

KingGlamis

Banned
Joined
Jun 10, 2007
Messages
745
Location
Mesa, AZ
Once you get into rechargeable LiPo/Li-Ion, your risk level goes up....and it is best to buy protected batteries that open the battery circuit if voltage gets too low (or too high with charging), or too hot.

I'm a relative newbie. Can you explain the difference between protected and unprotected cells? I have RCR123As with the name Powerizer on them. Doesn't say where they were MFG-ed. But they do have a plastic "wrap" on them and what appears to be two vent holes on the positive end. Are these protected cells?
 

Bullzeyebill

Flashaholic
Joined
Feb 21, 2003
Messages
12,164
Location
CA
I think this is an isolated incident. In our CPF community we have seen few incidences of CR123 failure. It has occurred, and we have taken note.

That said, I have been using RCR123 batteries that have established a track record in high drain applications. Surefire, Streamlight, and Duracell, to name a few, appear to be better suited to our flashlight purposes. Remember, CR123's got their start as camera batteries, running flash, on and off in in fractions of a second. We require more of our CR123's and I think we should be very selective brand wise. Study Silver Fox's work up on CR123's in the sticky at the electronics, battery, etc. forum.

Bill
 

LED_Thrift

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
1,874
Location
Northern NJ, USA
I'm a relative newbie. Can you explain the difference between protected and unprotected cells? I have RCR123As with the name Powerizer on them. Doesn't say where they were MFG-ed. But they do have a plastic "wrap" on them and what appears to be two vent holes on the positive end. Are these protected cells?

Protected cells have a circuit in them that shuts the current off when the voltage of the cell gets low. Draining a lithium rechargable battery too low and then recharging it can sometimes create a dangerous condition. The protection circuit prevents the cell from being discharged too low. The downsides are: a slight increase in cost, a loss of capacity [my guess ~ 25%], and the fact that your light will go out with little or no warning. In some lights I can see the light getting a little dimmer and so I know the batteries will stop soon, in others it is very hard to tell.
 

fluke

Enlightened
Joined
May 20, 2007
Messages
476
Location
London UK
Re: Fenix P1D after battery explosion

Hello Alberto,

I believe the PTC is supposed to protect against this type of event. I am not sure if the brand that failed uses a PTC device, but all of the name brand cells do as well as some of the others. The Titanium cells originally did not have a PTC with the first batches that were sold, but they were added on subsequent batches. I believe all the BatteryStation cells are also PTC protected.

The PTC does add additional cost to the cell, so those who are looking for only the cheapest price may be at additional risk.

Tom

Is the PTC a true circuit on non rechargeable cells ???
Or is it just the name for a vent ???
I had some Colston brand CR123A's that when getting low make my Fenix drop to low.
 

Flymo

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 2, 2007
Messages
98
Location
Europe
I'm glad you are OK!
mpr.gif


I would say, sue that factory of the batteries, or at least send them a email with pictures, to scare the poop out of them.:poof:
 

LuxLuthor

Flashaholic
Joined
Nov 5, 2005
Messages
10,654
Location
MS
I'm a relative newbie. Can you explain the difference between protected and unprotected cells? I have RCR123As with the name Powerizer on them. Doesn't say where they were MFG-ed. But they do have a plastic "wrap" on them and what appears to be two vent holes on the positive end. Are these protected cells?

It's a very good and important question. When we say "Protected" we mean a separate computer chip that is added and gives a cutoff (breaks the circuit in the battery from completing) if the voltage goes too low, the voltage goes too high, the current amperate goes too high, and the cell temperature rises too high.

I sacrificed one of my AW 14670 cells to show you exactly what this means. Click on the thumbnail images below. AW starts with a normal UNprotected cell in blue plastic which he also sells. These have the vent holes which help release pressure if the temperature rises, and gas expands. That means the starting blue, unprotected cell just has high temp venting protection (as far as I know).

Now note there is a thin computer chip on the bottom under a metal disc. One end is welded to the bottom (Negative Terminal) of the blue battery, and the other end uses a thin contact strip to run along the side and attach on the top Positive terminal.

It is this computer chip that does all the important sensing and interruption of the circuit, otherwise the blue cell is an unprotected cell. The additional black shrink wrap and label are added to keep the components anchored and insulated. You can feel and see the space at the bottom of the bottom of a protected AW battery where the PTC circuit is locate4d.

If the ones you are buying for other lights, such as R123 do not specify that they have this kind of protection, and especially if you don't see the circuit gap and feel the thin strip along the side, then it's pretty safe to assume you are not using protected Lithium cells. I hope this illustrates more clearly what a "Protected" battery actually means.






Finally, if I remove the blue wrapper you see the metal canister with the plastic circle on top that separates the Negative entire outside and the inner, middle top positive end. It is a shiny, stainless steel casing, it just photographed a darker color.

 
Last edited:

elgarak

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 30, 2004
Messages
1,045
Location
Florida
The protection circuit is added to (some) rechargeable cells.

AFAIK, the primaries like the one that was reported to explode in this thread typically do not have an active circuit like this.

They should have a PTC, though. That stands for "Positive Temperature Coefficient"; it's simply a resistor that has higher resistance at higher temperature. It's there to limit the current when the battery is hot, since Lithium batteries are prone to thermal runaway: Hot batteries can produce a lot of current which makes them even hotter -- positive feedback without the PTC. Also, if the temp gets too high, the chemical inside break up, with nasty results (see the thread start). For instance, they release an oxidizer, which means that if they're on fire they can burn even without oxygen.
 

DM51

Flashaholic
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
13,338
Location
Borg cube #51
Good unprotected cells have PTC thermal protection - not the same thing as the low voltage / overcharge protection circuit.
 
Last edited:

Art Vandelay

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
1,550
Re: Fenix P1D after battery explosion

It was was a cheap chinese with a "PW Powerstation" label on it.
It is on sale in Europe by several vendors through the Internet.
I don't think they make rechargeable CR123s. Charging a non rechargeable could cause an explosion like that.
 
Top