Olight M2X-UT Javelot (XM-L2 dedome, 1x18650/2xCR123A) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES+

The commentary in this thread appears somewhat underwhelming considering the outstanding output achieved by this very modest sized LED Flashlight. The first time I turned it on I realised it would be one of the milestone flashlights in LED flashlight history.
Yes, the stock throw capability of the M2X-UT is outstanding, and far and above standard dome-on emitters. I am not sure why this hasn't generated more buzz - except maybe those familiar with the throw characteristics of dedomed emitters are already used to custom mods. :shrug:

Ultimately, I expect it will be sales that drive uptake my other makers. And like with neutral white emitters, this may wind up not really catching on with the general consumer. Hard to know ... but I agree, the M2X-UT represents a significant milestone for stock manufacture.
 
now that is a deeeeppplllyyyyy domed light. i think it will be good for caving tho. :D
 
Yes, the stock throw capability of the M2X-UT is outstanding, and far and above standard dome-on emitters. I am not sure why this hasn't generated more buzz - except maybe those familiar with the throw characteristics of dedomed emitters are already used to custom mods. :shrug:

Ultimately, I expect it will be sales that drive uptake my other makers. And like with neutral white emitters, this may wind up not really catching on with the general consumer. Hard to know ... but I agree, the M2X-UT represents a significant milestone for stock manufacture.

For me, the small size of the hotspot, the extreme contrast between the intensity of the hotspot and the spill, which likely creates major tunnel vision, and the tint shift undermine the impressive throw of the light . I prefer the beam profiles of the larger lights with the larger reflector and domed emitter; I'd take a large bright hotspot that reaches very far over a small very bright hotspot that reaches very, very far.
 
A very small bright hotspot with a dim spill is not just about distance. It's also very good for seeing through rain, snow and mist/fog, in between trees, buildings and reflective signs, into small spaces like manholes, crawlspaces, and chases. Without alot of blinding back scatter.
 
A very small bright hotspot with a dim spill is not just about distance. It's also very good for seeing through rain, snow and mist/fog, in between trees, buildings and reflective signs, into small spaces like manholes, crawlspaces, and chases. Without alot of blinding back scatter.

You're quite right. Smoke-cutting lights firefighters use are designed based on that principle: minimizing spill to minimize glare. The spill of the Javelot, however, as far as I can tell from videos and beamshots, is not dim enough to eliminate glare, but also not bright enough to complement the hotspot to minimize tunnel vision either.

The hotspot is too small for my liking, but that's just personal preference.
 
You're quite right. Smoke-cutting lights firefighters use are designed based on that principle: minimizing spill to minimize glare. The spill of the Javelot, however, as far as I can tell from videos and beamshots, is not dim enough to eliminate glare, but also not bright enough to complement the hotspot to minimize tunnel vision either.

The hotspot is too small for my liking, but that's just personal preference.

By the nature of a single emitter dedomed LED, they are going to minimize spill light. The overall brightness area is reduced by dedoming, so you no longer have spill. Throwers unless like the Surefire Hellfighter HID lights have a monster amount of spill as well as throw. They achieve this by using the parabolic reflector.

I think that Olight hit a home run with this light for three reasons, first being a single cell light and secondly having the throw it does and finally the price point of $120 or less.

I own a few Olight models and the M2X-UT IMO is the best value of them all.
 
By the nature of a single emitter dedomed LED, they are going to minimize spill light. The overall brightness area is reduced by dedoming, so you no longer have spill.

Could be the cameras, could be my monitor, or could just be my eyes: this is a lot of spill to me:



 
Not sure I'm understanding your issue here scs. If you want less throw nearly every other flashlight on the market will do that. The spill is mostly light coming straight off the LED through the glass. You would have to shield it somehow to get less.
 
Not sure I'm understanding your issue here scs. If you want less throw nearly every other flashlight on the market will do that. The spill is mostly light coming straight off the LED through the glass. You would have to shield it somehow to get less.
Turkeylord, issue is too strong a word. There's no issue with the light. I'm simply expressing why I don't like it. I prefer either minimum (dim) spill or no spill to minimize or eliminate glare, or ample spill bright enough to complement the hotspot to prevent tunnel vision.

Again, to me, to me, the javelot falls in the middle: it has too much spill to eliminate glare, but not enough to eliminate tunnel vision.

My previous post with the videos is in response to Nonotagain's comment that there's minimum to no spill.
 
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Turkeylord, issue is too strong a word. There's no issue with the light. I'm simply expressing why I don't like it. I prefer either minimum (dim) spill or no spill to minimize or eliminate glare, or ample spill bright enough to complement the hotspot to prevent tunnel vision.

Again, to me, to me, the javelot falls in the middle: it has too much spill to eliminate glare, but not enough to eliminate tunnel vision.

My previous post with the videos is in response to Nonotagain's coment that there's minimum to no spill.

I've got an Olight SR-95, the Olight M2X-UT, a couple of Nitecore TM36's and a couple of Fenix TK61's , all considered to be throwers.

A LED thrower is not going to have much spill. Your comment about tunnel vision to me indicates that you are only able to focus your eyes on the spot lit by the light, so you aren't perceiving much spill light.

Until you get into an aspheric which has a beam angle of 1-2 degrees, you will have some light that partially lights the area in front of you.

If you look at my posting http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...omer-Service&p=4623312&viewfull=1#post4623312 , I have a picture of the light produced by my Hellfighter. You'll see a lot of spill light as well as a defined hot spot on a tree that sits 225 yards from where I took the shot. The Hellfighter is a HID not LED. I don't have any pics of the beam patterns of my other lights, but I'll see if I can get the time if the weather cooperates to photograph each. I recall that the M2X-UT had less light hitting the ground in front of me than I saw from the TM36.
 
Thanks, NoNotAgain. If you're too busy, no worries.
 
I've got an Olight SR-95, the Olight M2X-UT, a couple of Nitecore TM36's and a couple of Fenix TK61's , all considered to be throwers.

A LED thrower is not going to have much spill. Your comment about tunnel vision to me indicates that you are only able to focus your eyes on the spot lit by the light, so you aren't perceiving much spill light.

Until you get into an aspheric which has a beam angle of 1-2 degrees, you will have some light that partially lights the area in front of you.

If you look at my posting http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...omer-Service&p=4623312&viewfull=1#post4623312 , I have a picture of the light produced by my Hellfighter. You'll see a lot of spill light as well as a defined hot spot on a tree that sits 225 yards from where I took the shot. The Hellfighter is a HID not LED. I don't have any pics of the beam patterns of my other lights, but I'll see if I can get the time if the weather cooperates to photograph each. I recall that the M2X-UT had less light hitting the ground in front of me than I saw from the TM36.

Whats the difference in reach-throw, between your Fenix TK61....Nitecore TM36, and your Olight M2X Javelot=

The M2X, and the TM36, should trow farther, than the TK61, i think.
 
Man I brought this 4 - 5 months ago and it has never seen the outside of my house yet, really need to take it out.
 
I recently bought my first M2X-UT and posted my thoughts on this post a week or so ago. Serial Number F02030525. Did not realise it had quite a different LED, which has a much smaller and neater LED base but it definitely has a thin clear coat over metal base and LED.
C:\_image002.jpg

Bought my second M2X-UT and it is the identical size and shape as the Selfbuilt review picture which shows bare larger metal base with LED in middle, but when checked closely the metal base has definite surface corrosion. Serial Number E11252123 (Selfbuilt Serial was E11252524 to best of my memory) so they are almost cousins.
Has anyone else noticed this corrosion or do I have a bad LED. The Selfbuilt pictures show very clean bare metal no corrosion. While this second E serial version seems to work as well, a little greener perhaps, will this corrosion be a problem in months to come with regular use?
I am a newbie so am trying to paste JPG in the text on word doc then cut and paste to Forum. Please forgive pics do not work. I think you will all get the gist of what I am saying with or without pictures.
Hope you can zoom the pictures to see what I mean, I did not want to pull the torches apart to get better macro shots, one might need to go back to Aus Ebay seller as a secondhand or damaged Flashlight. The hotspot and corona surround are greener/yellow compared to the later F serial version which is whiter. As a matter of interest a quick comparison using my cheap light meter at 1 meter, Thrunite TN32=115,000 lux, M2X-UT E serial fully dedomed=115,000lux, Later F serial version M2X-UT=96,000 lux. Sorry all I have to measure lights comparatively. The E series also throws further onto my white wall target approx 700 metres away.
C:\image004.jpg

Regards
John
sorry pics did not work!
 
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It's possible that with some humidity that the aluminum base of the LED has some oxidation. Without seeing pictures, it would be hard to tell.

My M2X-UT, serial # E11111852 is clear of oxidation. You can see a shadow where the dome was removed from the LED on the aluminum base.

You need to use an imaging host to post photo's on this site unless you are a paying contributor. CPF gives paying contributors a whopping 1 MB of picture storage until you become a level 3 or higher contributor.
 
Man I brought this 4 - 5 months ago and it has never seen the outside of my house yet, really need to take it out.
+1 :)

Bought my second M2X-UT and it is the identical size and shape as the Selfbuilt review picture which shows bare larger metal base with LED in middle, but when checked closely the metal base has definite surface corrosion.
Like NoNotAgain said, it's hard to say without pics (and you will need to consider the various options to get image-hosting privileges here or elsewhere). It may very well be some sort of oxidation/damage due to the dedoming process. This can be common in manual dedomes done by custom modders. As long it is not affecting the die itself, and it not changing over time, I wouldn't be too concerned.
 
But, my nitecore TM36, against the olight M2X, my TM36, is king, in throw terms...the M2X UT, is nice, but the TM36, is absolutely outstanding.

But, the M2X UT, is absolutely amazing, for its size
 
I see on another thread on M2X a suggestion that some kind of filter can reduce the green tinge but not reduce the throw. Any thoughts?

Olight SR95-UT SBT-70, Fenix TK-70, Thrunite TN32, Olight M2X-UT (both F&E versions), Nitecore EA8, Ultrafire C8, Thrunite Neutron 2a v2, Nitecore HC90, Olight S15, XTAR VP2 x2, Maha MH-C808M
 

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