It's a little less likely for a 3-step 4000k light to have green, but still very likely. Take a look at Cree's easywhite binning chart for the 50.2.
As you can see, the 3-step binning process for a 5000k light means that you are pretty much guaranteed to get a light with a slight green-tint bias. A 4000k 3-step binning process means you will have a rare chance of getting a light with a slight magenta bias.
However, you can slap on a green-minus filter to shed some of that green off the light's spectral output and coincidentally raise the CRI and R9 reproduction of the light. It's the same trick CREE uses for their high CRI home LED bulbs. I'm pretty sure my old H600FD MK3 leans on the green side, but when I slap on a pink filter or pink highlighter, it becomes an incredible tinted light.
I've pre-ordered three H600FC MK4s btw, and am only keeping one.
My first post here!
I contacted Zebralight specifically about differences between H600w MkIII and Mk IV. This is what they said: The Mk IV version is slightly brighter at max output, and comes with the new User Interface that allows the user to program 6 modes to any brightness levels he/she wants. Runtimes and battery protection will be exactly the same.
I have never used H600W MK III, (but was about to buy one), so I really do not know if the new user interface is a big deal.
That's the kind of thing that could likely make ZL drop their generous return policy one day.
Oh ok, good idea. I really wish ZL would just offer a premium tint upgrade. I would gladly pay an added charge for a hand picked light with a tint right on the BBL. I bet some others including yourself would too. Hopefully they will consider it one day.No I'll be selling the other two here at CPF.
ZL labels the H604c to have a maximum brightness of 1616 lumens. Don't know about runtimes yet but based on ZL's track record I expect it to be more than solid.
I'd believe it if both the H604c&d didn't have the same brightness specs. Since they also don't have the runtimes, i'd conservatively suspect they put the H604d specs in and duplicated them and the H604c would run a small percentage less than that due to the lower tint levels.
Yes, based on ZL's history the c version should have ~10% less output than its d equivalent, but given the Fd/c's 1568 lumens output the 604d/c 1616 lumens is also believable for me. Let's see how ZL adjusts that spread sheet in the near future.
Yeah i noticed the same lumens count on the Fc/d series as well (and the run times again missing) and thought the same thing there (even though the lumen level is lower i presume through loss via the frosted lens). I personally am not interested in the frosted lens light after that post where someone had multiple frosted Zebra lens crack on him. Each their own though. Looking forward to the H604c and the H600w Mk IV (though the latter can wait for me)
Yeah i noticed the same lumens count on the Fc/d series as well (and the run times again missing) and thought the same thing there (even though the lumen level is lower i presume through loss via the frosted lens). I personally am not interested in the frosted lens light after that post where someone had multiple frosted Zebra lens crack on him. Each their own though. Looking forward to the H604c and the H600w Mk IV (though the latter can wait for me)
IIRC the cracked lens problem was with a certain batch of lens supplied by Corning? After that thread no one's frosted lens cracked anyway. My H53Fc and SC600Fd III Plus are doing well without a single problem. I'm a flood guy so I got the H600Fc MKIV this time.
No problems on my frosted lens lights either(H600Fd&c MKIII) and I have been using them for about 2 years doing everything from backcountry camping and rock climbing to mechanics and carpentry(I do take care of my stuff though and don't abuse it). As said, I believe they just had an issue with a batch of the old type of glass they used to use. The newest frosted lenses(late 2015+) are Corning Gorilla Glass 3(the same glass used for the screens on many cell phones) which is one of the strongest and most scratch resistant varieties available. Plus, ZL will replace any lens if you do happen to break one. In my opinion, the frosted lens ZL headlamp models offer the best beam type for general use by far. You will be missing out if you don't try one imo MX421.
I have a H602w for floody stuff, but i do see the merits of the semi-floody 'F' lens, thats what my only working Armytek Wizard has essentially and its okay to have the concentration of light in the middle with the smooth transition to the spill. Still, cracked lens aside, if i want flood, my preference so far is the "mule" H602w (or now the H604c it appears), otherwise, I'd get a H600 and put a diffuser on the lens (the scotch tape thing works pretty well) for more focussed lighting. That way i have two different beam profiles with one light.