26" LightSport, 700-1200 watt HMI powerful, multi-use light

[LightSward]

I ordered a new Jenbo 1,200 short arc HMI Light bulb that arrived in my regular mail box recently! It is suppose to equal a 5,000 watt incandescent bulb or 2,400 watt Xenon lamp in lumen output!

 

[LightSward]

Reflector out of the mold! Best, smoothest, better optics, glass like finish, right off the mold before surface prep! Easiest product from mold removal ever, just a couple taps with wedges. Now if the mirroring kit would arrive soon!? This reflector is the lightest weight of them all. More soon!

 

[LightSward]

First half of the "mirroring" chemicals arrived today, and the reflector surface prep is half done. Hopefully a beautiful reflector next few days!

Something weird last month or so with CPF; I am logged in but can't post until I log in two or three times and then, :shakehead the log in, only last a few minutes...any idea what the issue is?:scowl:

 

[LightSward]

I applied the copper paint to the fiberglass reflector, and wow, it conducts electricity! Ready for electroplating; first copper layers, then nickle/chrome polish to mirror!
I'll post these photos soon.

 

[LightSward]

Many things to do before I can electroplate the copper with more copper and then 'copy chrome'. $$$ I had to do a lot of kit building for the proper chemical soup.

 

[Al Combs]

Did you use Caswell copper conductive paint? Just a guess from your mention of Copy Chrome. How smooth is the surface after it dries? Does it look like a mirror when you look in the surface? I was wondering because if the spray paint is conductive, why is it necessary to introduce an intermediate layer of Bright Acid Copper Plating before using Copy Chrome? Or is that only necessary if you want a smoother surface? They mention sanding to fill in scratches and minor pits between built up layers of copper.

I hope you are successful and get better results than the old chrome tape method. It sounds like a promising and interesting process. Unfortunately for the curious, Caswell only has directions for download if you pay first.

On another subject, I haven't had any problems with staying logged into CPF. I use CookieCuller in Firefox to erase all the unprotected cookies. But since it protects the CPF cookies, I don't have to login every time. When you look at the CPF password and userid cookies from the browser options, what does it say their expiration dates are? Normally they should be good for a year. Is your CMOS battery OK?

The only problem I've noticed is there still appears to be an intermittent issue with the database. There was nothing in the Administrative Announcements forum about it. But sometimes when I post to a thread, I can open the same thread in another window and see my new post. While the original editor window I posted from appears frozen. A refresh of forum the thread is in doesn't list me as the last poster in the thread. I have seen a few posts where there are a half dozen of the same post because the person hit the "Submit Reply" button that many times. Out of habit from the old server, when it freezes I do a click and drag so I can copy the editor window just in case it times out and I lose everything. I really should draft posts in Word, but I'm just too lazy.

 

[LightSward]

Did you use Caswell copper conductive paint? Just a guess from your mention of Copy Chrome. How smooth is the surface after it dries? Does it look like a mirror when you look in the surface? I was wondering because if the spray paint is conductive, why is it necessary to introduce an intermediate layer of Bright Acid Copper Plating before using Copy Chrome? Or is that only necessary if you want a smoother surface? They mention sanding to fill in scratches and minor pits between built up layers of copper.

I hope you are successful and get better results than the old chrome tape method. It sounds like a promising and interesting process. Unfortunately for the curious, Caswell only has directions for download if you pay first.

On another subject, I haven't had any problems with staying logged into CPF. I use CookieCuller in Firefox to erase all the unprotected cookies. But since it protects the CPF cookies, I don't have to login every time. When you look at the CPF password and userid cookies from the browser options, what does it say their expiration dates are? Normally they should be good for a year. Is your CMOS battery OK?

The only problem I've noticed is there still appears to be an intermittent issue with the database. There was nothing in the Administrative Announcements forum about it. But sometimes when I post to a thread, I can open the same thread in another window and see my new post. While the original editor window I posted from appears frozen. A refresh of forum the thread is in doesn't list me as the last poster in the thread. I have seen a few posts where there are a half dozen of the same post because the person hit the "Submit Reply" button that many times. Out of habit from the old server, when it freezes I do a click and drag so I can copy the editor window just in case it times out and I lose everything. I really should draft posts in Word, but I'm just too lazy.

Yes, I used Caswell's Conductive Paint, and it really does 'conduct' quite well. :naughty: Not real shiny, issues with thinning, etc, splatter, had to semi-hand paint but still fairly smooth. Caswell recommends building up several layers of copper, sanding between layers, and then copy chroming for that 'mirror' finish. I had to make my own Acid Copper plating kit from scratch because I bought the less expensive Flash copper kit, which eats up the conductive paint, so I'll have to do a 'strike' layer of acid copper to protect the conductive paint, before I can use the flash copper with 'brighteners...":sick2:

I plan to really smooth out the first layers of copper...etc. Caswell does post some 'quick edited' videoes, but many other web sites give a good over view, because, when you get the Caswell manual, you'll find it is 'kind of generalized' knowledge with just some particulars for each kit, and combines instructions for several kits to save paper. You have to buy other stuff for the kit, like sulfuric acid etc. basically I like what Caswell does, but like many complex things, the kit gives a good 'start'....

I'll check my computer settings, but have started copy protecting posts before hitting the 'submit reply' button.

 

[Al Combs]

Thanks for the info. Keep us posted on the process. It sounds very interesting. Do you have any photos?

When I posted to this thread yesterday, it froze in the middle of posting. A quick click and drag and <Ctrl-C> to copy to the clipboard saved it. Just something you have to anticipate. After 30 seconds or whatever the interval is, the screen goes blank and I get a browser message. That happens less frequently than the database problem. Most of the time everything works fine.

I wouldn't want anyone to think I was complaining about the fantastic job Greta does. When we had the crash early last year I wondered what if Greta gets sick of this hobby and it doesn't come back? Thankfully it did. CPF has been around so long it's a resource we tend to take for granted.

 

[LightSward]

Thanks for the info. Keep us posted on the process. It sounds very interesting. Do you have any photos?

When I posted to this thread yesterday, it froze in the middle of posting. A quick click and drag and <Ctrl-C> to copy to the clipboard saved it. Just something you have to anticipate. After 30 seconds or whatever the interval is, the screen goes blank and I get a browser message. That happens less frequently than the database problem. Most of the time everything works fine.

I wouldn't want anyone to think I was complaining about the fantastic job Greta does. When we had the crash early last year I wondered what if Greta gets sick of this hobby and it doesn't come back? Thankfully it did. CPF has been around so long it's a resource we tend to take for granted.

Yes I thank Greta for all that she does to keep CPF going! :thumbsup:

I have been taking photos of my progress. I am completely re-laying out my shop for the manufacturing layout I now need to set-up. The electroplating has it's own issues, and luckily the kits I have purchased and developed use low or non toxic compounds and after basic processing the waste can be disposed of at similar place as car batteries and such. Many of the chemicals I use are perpetually re-used with occasional filtering and addition of 'loss'. I'll also be able to chrome, (copy chrome), motor cycle, and other parts too! Some of these processes will allow me to make my own printed type electronic circuits and crude depositional integrated chips. I also have a knack for building; working antique and early type electronics. Some of this may come in handy for building or assembling power supplies, ballast, etc.

Having to keep all costs down and also with storage an issue, I'm developing procedures that are somewhat (for me), complex to cover such a large area with reflective material with minimal ingredient quantities.

I've got many photos to post,,,...just been busy with the project and will get around to it soon.

 

[LightSward]

Here are some Photos of the recent work done on the "pre-production" model of the soon to be released 26" inch LightSport.

Reduced and ready to sand and polish concrete mold, made from the 30 inch "NightHawk" trial light.

Waxed and polished concrete mold ready for fiber-glassing

LightSward with eye-protection and dust mask for sanding.

LightSward seen here getting ready sand the concrete mold to a high shine before applying and polishing the candle wax.




Finished fiber-glassing, ready to remove from mold.

I melted candle wax and polished it over concrete mold making product removal very easy.



Freshly removed from mold 'new reflector' ready to 'surface'

The removal of the product, was much easier to do than any other mold I ever made...mostly by just using melted candle wax polished to a high shine before applying the fiberglass!




As you can see 'Fiberglass is translucent'

Until I worked with fiberglass, I didn't realize raw product was translucent.




First 'Latex based coating'

First 'Latex based coating' helps fill in the minor pits and air-bubble holes...air bubbles come from when I stir the hardener into the fiberglass resin.



Copy Chrome practice

Here I am practicing various plating methods, procedures, currents; voltages, amperes, agitation methods and application parameters for the Copy Chrome and ready to practice with my homemade Acid Copper solution etc.


Initial Copper Paint spraying

Beautiful copper shine after first layer of copper paint sprayed on.



I had some spray splatter, so I had to brush apply 2nd coat

I had some spray splatter, so I had to brush on 2nd coat. I'll have to add extra Acid or Flash Copper layers to bring a better shine for the Copy Chrome to 'Mirror'.

:thumbsup:

Some minor 'pits and air bubble craters' to be 'copper-ed over'

Here some minor pits and craters appear, that will be filled somewhat by the copper layers used to strike and fill the reflector.

I'm almost ready to start strikes and layers of Acid Copper and Flash Copper fill and shine finished with Copy Chrome trials and protective treatments. :naughty:

 

[LightSward]

I never thought I would be using root killer and toothpaste to help put a mirror shine on the LightSport. The RootKiller is a source of copper for the initial covering and the toothpaste to regulate reaction to make the shine better. I am learning a whole bunch of stuff, and hopefully will be moving forward soon....:sick2: Chrome Tape is easy and effective, but this is a good challenge...:naughty:

 

[AnAppleSnail]

Toothpaste is GREAT for polishing metal. Kinder than Brasso, and cheaper than most grinding pastes. I look forward to seeing your results almost as much as you do

 

[Epsilon]

Also, as a last step, sigaret ash has a very light abrasion factor . Nice to get the last bit of shine out of the reflector

 

[LightSward]

Toothpaste is GREAT for polishing metal. Kinder than Brasso, and cheaper than most grinding pastes. I look forward to seeing your results almost as much as you do

Thanks; this is a fun project...!!! :thumbsup: ...but a bit time consuming...I take lots of breaks so as not to be tempted into rushing a potentially troublesome situation.

I'm taking more time to make sure I do things properly, especially when it comes to 'jury rigging' stuff. Because of cost(s), I'm forced into developing inovative methods of electroplating, especially when it comes to the 'fussy' chrome finish. Many of the cleaning processes also have safety and OSHA :sick2: considerations that I'm following to the 'T'... ...along with proper environmentally friendly disposal and/or recycling of waste products. Most of the chemicals and solids, if done with care, can be quite useful and safe for other things that need to be done around my home. :thumbsup:

 

[LightSward]

Also, as a last step, sigaret ash has a very light abrasion factor . Nice to get the last bit of shine out of the reflector

I'll look into that! Thanks.

 

[LightSward]

I finally obtained in the mail, my 'tinning' solution today. It seems to improve the 'plating' process quite a bit. Still things are slow compared to if I had lots of money and space to operate 'big baths'. Reflector really shines where there is good acid-copper deposition. Will take a few more weeks to see if this is really going to shine.

 

[monkeyboy]

I'd forgotten about this thread, but it's really coming along. I'm looking forward to see what the final product will be like. Should be a beast!

I remember reading the safety handbook (COSHH handbook in the UK) in chemistry class in high school (many years ago). It makes everything sound scarier than it really is which I think is a bad idea as it makes it difficult to identify which chemicals actually are dangerous. The entry for water read: "In case of contact with skin, wash thoroughly with water".

 

[LightSward]

I'd forgotten about this thread, but it's really coming along. I'm looking forward to see what the final product will be like. Should be a beast!

I remember reading the safety handbook (COSHH handbook in the UK) in chemistry class in high school (many years ago). It makes everything sound scarier than it really is which I think is a bad idea as it makes it difficult to identify which chemicals actually are dangerous. The entry for water read: "In case of contact with skin, wash thoroughly with water".

Yes, sometimes a challenge working with this stuff, sorting different labels, especially when thinking of some seemingly benign, common household products sold in big box stores that should have "more Red Flags" associated.

I may have to purchase much larger capacity electroplating tanks, etc., to get the quality I need on the large reflectors, some concerns of hazards do become more apparent as the chemical quantity increases. I've been able to nicely plate smaller objects, but there is lots more to do with large objects to get the same quality as smaller things.

 

[LightSward]

It looks like, to get the quality of electroplated copper and chrome needed to make the 30 inch LightSport mirror properly, I will need much larger tanks and perhaps many gallons of sulfuric and hydrochloric acid, copper sulfide, copy chrome, etc. I don't have the room or the money to take this approach any further for this large of a reflector at this time. I feel electroplating as I already have set up will work well for reflectors that I am designing in the twelve inch, (12"), or less category.

I will probably work with the reflecting mirror as sold by Edmond Scientific or back to one of the chrome tapes that has worked well in the past. The surface of the reflector has come a long way, and I am always working on improvements.

I may look at sending the reflector to a chroming shop, if the price is right and shipping is not an issue. I want to keep this as much, "Homemade" as possible, so will have some 'thinking about' to do.

I am feeling good about this no matter.:thumbsup:

I will have 'something' to show at the Seattle get together later this month labeled "EXPERIMENTAL or BIG LIGHT":

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?336511-CPF-NW-2012-Spring-GTG-

 

[digitalrust]

This is my first post so just delete it if I'm not suppose to mention companies. But, I wanted you to know that there is an alternative to polished metal, mylar, chrome and, vacuum deposited refelective coatings that is relatively new to the market. There is a a spray on chrome system made by a company called Alsa Corp that actually works. The finish is a lot like reflective mylar or very highly polished 6061 aluminum. I'm not associated with the company in any way but I thought it might be a easier solution than electroforming, then polishing, and then chroming.

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/kc/images/P1080112_L.jpg

Since I am sharing sources you might want to look at www.greenpowerscience.com. They sell a deep parabolic reflector

http://www.greenpowerscience.com/PAYLENSESFORSALE/37PARABOLICMIRROR.JPG

Image tags removed see Rule #3 Do not Hot Link images. Please host on an image site, Imageshack or similar and repost – Thanks Norm