49 XM-L U2 40 000lm watercooled bike lamp

JCD

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 12, 2010
Messages
892
Ok, let me be "that guy" for a change...

I'll be honest. I think it is a very bad light for night riding, and in that sense it doesn't impress me at all. It's ridiculous, yes, but not something I would boast in front of actual cyclists.

It is way too excessive, if not outright dangerous for real-world use (and even more so the HID array from the other video). I consider it to be a product of mindless number race that ultimately makes no sense: by effect alone, what I've seen in the video feels more like 4000 lm. To be honest, even that seems excessive, because typical car headlights are only 2000 to 3000 lm each, and cars need those only because they run much faster. How is it that a slow moving bike might suddenly need 7+ times more light? Read on for our analysis!™

Construction
...Would fit a motorbike much better. As it is, the whole array is too heavy. A typical complete bike assembly with an aluminum frame weighs 10–13 kg, this lamp alone adds about 4 kg to that number. For the record, that's more than a pack of 15 Lupine Bettys glued together. Moreover, the assembly is too large and complicated. You need to pack your belongings (emergency kits, water flask, etc.) in a backpack instead of places now occupied with parts of the assembly, putting extra strain on yourself in addition to carrying forward those extra four kilograms. Your heavy panting at the end of the first video is very convincing! If covering some 350 m leaves you out of breath like that, you should look into reducing and optimizing your load instead of doing exactly the opposite.

Also, there are too many weak points scattered around the frame. With lamp in the front, makeshift cooler in the middle and power supply in the back you're just asking for trouble in night riding—a potentially dangerous enterprise that needs safety and robustness above all.

Usage safety
First of all, it runs too hot. It would expand the list of possible accident injuries far better than shrink it by the virtue of letting you see things better. And the injuries can't be ruled out because with an assembly so fragile and complicated, there are too many things that can go wrong with this light. Would it even be safe to use if a heavy rain catches you on the way home?

Another point to consider is that the beam is too wide for its purpose, yet too bright at the same time. You're bathed in glare from things you don't even need to see when you're on a bike. In the video, even dark grey trees roll over into white; any actual white or reflective (wet or shiny) surfaces could easily distract you or disrupt your vision, causing accidents. You can't use this light where you might meet other people even theoretically, either, because being hit in the face by 40000 lm at night would be pretty annoying, and might induce seizures in photosensitive people.

Illumination efficiency
This design might be power-efficient for the amount of power it draws, but the fact is that it needs too much power to achieve a much simpler purpose. It's essentially a low (close sight) beam overpowered to reach the intensity of a high (far sight) beam, completely ignoring all the good reasons for the distinction. It heaps more of the same 26° beam originating from the same spot for every distinct illumination task, not unlike using a single screwdriver for various screw heads.

The fact that the light uses some of the poorest contemporary high-power LEDs when it comes to color rendition doesn't help: XM-L U2 are only available in cool white, spec'd at ~65 CRI; whereas just lowering the CCT to about 4500 K would bump the color rendition up to ~75 CRI and give you more natural greens and browns. You have more than enough surplus lumens to spare for that purpose...

Bottom line: I understand that most of the decisions were dictated by cheapness and convenience, but a cleverly done combination of a softly diffused high-CRI low beam and a concentrated high beam could achieve exactly the same purpose in at most 40 W while having virtually none of the disadvantages outlined above, but of course some 3000-something lumen isn't exactly as mind-boggling as 40000—for both good and bad reasons.

Agreed. More is not always better. That beam washes so much out with glare that it's far less useful than a much dimmer light would be.

At last it's everytime intersting to read comments about details and performance of equipment from people who never used things like that and don't have the expertise to judge about these things.


As a car-free bicycle commuter who does at least 75% of my recreational riding (along with many legs of my commutes) at night, I do "have the expertise to judge about these things." The best bike lights provide just enough high quality lumens in just the right places. Too much light makes it as difficult to see important details as not enough light. Also, when bike lights are so bright they become a distraction for oncoming traffic, they no longer enhance safety; they compromise it.
 
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wazza

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Messages
12
I don't want to comment all the comlete unqualified things postet by moozooh, but when you compare Lupine betty to my LED-Light the betty is really big and heavy!

Betty R9: 3,6 klm lamp 150 g (42 g/klm) set for 1,5h runtime 530g (147g/klm)
My lamp: 30 klm(360W) 1000g (34g/klm) set for 1,5h runtime 4000g (133g/klm)

At last 10 Bettys each 55mm diameter will take a little bit more room than my lamp with a diameter of 115mm...


And yes, you don't need lamps with up to 100+ klm like my big ones. But its great to ride with it. At last when I want to ride with only about 3 klm (exakt it is 2,5 klm), a small lamp and a high CRI here is my 2 years old answer:


A small HID with the philips CDMTC 35W (3000K CRI >90) weight of lamp 130g, ballast 180g, battery (3s LiIon, more when using 4s LiFe, for 1,5h 350g) output about 2500lm consumption 42W:

http://www.share-your-photo.com/img/57754f0019.jpg

http://www.share-your-photo.com/img/0124f665aa.jpg

http://www.share-your-photo.com/img/cc7751e9d4.jpg

At last it's everytime intersting to read comments about details and performance of equipment from people who never used things like that and don't have the expertise to judge about these things. Of course when you share such projects evertime some people will criticize with stupid comments because of the envy being unable to do this. Especially DIY-Projects provoke this because many people have enogh money to buy equipment but have no expertise in engineering, so when they can't buy it it can not be good because then can't get it. Everytime and in every country the same...


Your images are too large and have been replaced with links Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm


Dont bother for those critics
CPF is full of crazy projects like yours so everyone love this challenges!

By the way have you a idea about what i could use to focus and condense an array of 5 stars of 7 Cree ?
And secondly which driver do you use? I will use 12v Li batteries

Thanks for your work
 
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