a polymer sheath for your arc-aaa? want one?

Darell

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LOCO is more like it.
I'd like AT LEAST one as well. Sign me up. I'd be able to take some extras if anybody backed out, but I'll commit to one for sure.

I too, think that lamp-end in would be best for my needs. If somebody is taking a big shipment and sending them along, I'd want to add a micra sheath too!
 

sunspot

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Dang. I've been on holiday for a week and between honey-do's I've been working a piece of kydex for a belt holster for my LE. I come back to CPF and find I've been beat to the punch.
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Oh well, I like Normark's design better.
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If it will fit the LE and if I can get one with a belt clip, count me in.
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BTW, my prototype would not allow for different belt width.
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P.S. Kydex does grip very well.
 

cave dave

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How about a double barrell holster? One for the white and one for the turquiose (when I get it.)
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How hard is it to make your own sheath? Is this stuff plyable under heat or something? Is there instructions on the web.

I'd go with head first for the above reasons, but I can see where there would be advantges to tail first. ie using it without removing it from the sheath.
 

txwest

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From what I can tell from the picture, the light would fit in the holster either way. The only thing is, the closed end needs to be slightly expanded so the head wouldn't be in contact with the sheath. This could allow the light to inadvertently be turned on in the sheath.
Tex
 

Joe Talmadge

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Agreed! That was the only thing I was worried about -- the light turning in the sheath and accidently turning itself on. A small swell at the bottom would solve that, but I don't see how you could mold one that way. Maybe mold the regular sheath, open it up, put in a slightly larger washer, and re-mold the end part around that.

Joe
 

shootist16

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by cave dave:
Is this stuff plyable under heat or something? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Exactly.

go to www.knifeforums.com and look under the sheath making forum for instructions and info about kydex. A search on www.bladeforums.com will also turn up some useful info.
 

Normark

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Hey Guys..

Mike..
I'm happy you like your Micra holder..
Really makes the Micra that much more useful..

As far as the solitare fitting..I'll have to see what can be done..

Peter is fixing me up with an Arclight,,hope to have it here soon...

The one thing that is bothering me is the deep knurling on the Arc...

When I mold,, I mold with extreme pressure..The pressire is enough to leave imprints of both the little outcropping on the Solitare for the ring,,as well as imprinting the very weak knurling on the Solitare...

I'm afraid if I mold the Arc the same way,, you'll never get it out..

What I may have to do is make it somewhat like the Micra sheath, were it is snapped out of the holder...

It's all fine and dandy to say this or say that,,until I get my fat little fingers on an Arc,, I won't know for sure...

Now what is this Clip you guys are talking about???

Splain Please...

ttyle

Eric...
 
D

**DONOTDELETE**

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Eric and all,

Hello, I'm new here, been browsing furiously for a while now, came over from Bladeforums.

I can start the "clip" explanantion, though, because it's something I'm interested in. What I (and apparently a lot of others) would love is a clip on the ARC allowing it to be clipped to one's pocket or belt. By way of reference, take a look at Spyderco knives and, of course the Surefire E1 or E2 lights. I've become addicted to the "clip" for my knives. I just can't stand to have stuff sink down to the bottom of my pocket anymore.

Currently, I've read about people using a clip from the Solitaire with mixed results. Others have tried various pen/pencil clips. The problems arise from the clips sliding around on the light, or popping off. I think this is because the mag clip, and obviosly pencil-types are just too flimsy. They're made to clip something to a dress shirt front pocket, not the double thick denim of your jeans. For this type of work, a clip needs to be much stronger, flatter, and screwed or riveted on.

I think the hope here then is, that you could form a "real" (preferably, metal)clip into the kydex that would stand up to real world use. Of course, I'd still love to see a clip made an integral part of the ARC itself.
 

Darell

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Normark:
When I mold,, I mold with extreme pressure..The pressire is enough to leave imprints of both the little outcropping on the Solitare for the ring,,as well as imprinting the very weak knurling on the Solitare...

I'm afraid if I mold the Arc the same way,, you'll never get it out..
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Could you wrap the Arc in thin tape before molding the sheath? Or you could paint something on the ark to fill the knurling before the molding process...
 

Normark

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Hey Guys..

Ahh Ok,, I see what you mean about a clip..

Hmmmmmmmmmm.....
Have to Tink about Dat......

Darell.....

That would be fine for the first one,,but knurling is knurling... The next one to go into it,,is going (maybe ) to hang up as well...

What I'm thinking is a Break Away sheath like what I do for the Micra...

Once the Micra is in the rig,,pulling it striaght out is Impossible..It has to be snapped out through the open side of the sheath..Like snapping a pencil..
This does several things..Keeps the tool Snug as a bug,,you won't loose it,kids won't play ewith it,,nor will anyone else unless they know how to extract it...

Everything I'm saying right now about the Arc,,and it's possibly holder is Theory right now..We shall see....

If it works,, you guys will love them..

Peter,,those Military types may like the idea as well,,since the rig will protect the wearer somewhat...

Anyway,,waiting on pins and needles,Can't wait to try this out...

Danm,,it's almost like waiting for a knife...

smile.gif


ttyle

Eric....
 

Joe Talmadge

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Eric,

Have you given any thought to the discussion above about which way the light would fit in the sheath? Is there a way to put the light in the sheath head-first, but be reasonably assured that the light won't turn in the sheath and turn itself on?

Perhaps a snap-out sheath solves both the problem of the knurling and the problem of head-first carry. If the sheath tightness and knurling together prevent the light from turning in the sheath, then the user could elect to insert head-first without worry.

Joe
 

sunspot

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Aaah, Eric. Maybe I should not stick my nose in(said the tyro to the master), BUT, when I was playing with my Kydex, and I did not want to apply heat and pressure to my LE, I used a smooth wood dowel as a LE. Just my 2 cents.
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Normark

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Hey Joe...


It may be possible...

It all depends what kind of fit I get from the get go...

If the Arc is the same at both ends,,I don't see why it wouldn't be possible..

What exactly is the reason to insert it head first ??
To protect the lens I suspect ??!!

Phred...

Possibly..

I like working with the actually tool,,but maybe a dowel may work...

I may just Mic it,,send the demensions to a friend and have him machine me something out of aluminum..We'll see...

I'ce pressed my solitarte hundreds of timesa,,and no problem...However remember Ryan was selling those spy capsules on Bladeforums ??
Well I caved one of those in beyond repair...

That would be the second thing I've crushed..

First was a customers compass I forgot to take out of a sheath, I was building..
smile.gif

Opps!!!!
smile.gif


ttyle

Eric...
 

Joe Talmadge

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
What exactly is the reason to insert it head first ??
To protect the lens I suspect ??!!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Exactly. I don't care about scratches on the body, and as a result I probably tend to treat my lights a bit less reverentially than some here. But I do care about anything that affects performance, like scratches on the LED. If I could protect the head, I'd be able to beat the hell out of this and not worry about it
smile.gif


Joe
 
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