Hamilton Felix
Enlightened
It's been many years since I looked at a chart listing sealed beam specifications and looked at the 100 watt and 250 watt PAR36 and PAR46 landing lights - so I don't recall the numbers. But look for a "Q" preceding the four digit number, and it should be the halogen version of the light - same light but a little halogen bulb inside, a longer life and a slightly different candlepower rating.
Yeah, I thought about little 250 watt PAR36 landing lights or taxi lights to hide in the grille of a car with not much frontal area. But for driving, there are better options.
BTW, one of the best options is a handful of cars that were popular on the late 1960's, such as our 1967 Thunderbird: They had solidly mounted round headlights, and metal covers that hid the lights when not in use. Aiming does not go bad, like "pop-up" lights, and any non-stock appearing bulbs are out of sight when not in use. I really thought about fitting the T-bird with 5-3/4" Cibie H4's outboard, and installing those 150 watt sealed beam spots I have, in the inboard position. I could use only the H4's for "normal" high and low operation, click on the 150 watters for long range use. But that car seems to be stored at a restoration shop forever - or at least until I remedy my divorce-impoverished state, and I'll probably give it to my daughter instead of modifying it.
Also, while I like landing lights as spotlights, I've learned a few things about those. After many years of using Unity spotlights, in fire trucks, Hydro Operator work vehicles, personal trucks, etc. I've learned that the built-in Unity spotlights may be fine for a cop who uses them constantly, but they are a pain when kept for years of "occasional" use. Maybe it's our wet weather here, but they bind, develop poor contacts, have switch problems, and generally don't like sitting around in the weather.
What has worked for me on rural rescue vehicles, as well as occasionally on personal vehicles, is the type of handheld spotlight that can lock on and has an optional magnetic base. LSI lights have a captive nut. Another brand used to have a tapered socket and their base had a matching tapered "finger." Plug the light in the lighter, set it on the hood or roof, aimed at the work and locked on, and you don't need anyone to hold the light for you. Being stored inside when not in use, and being a simple light, it doesn't develop many problems.
Some years ago, I also picked up a suction-based "Go-Light" remote control spotlight. Not the wireless one, just a cheap wired model. But for occasional use it's OK.
I've built a few handheld lights, too. And I've upgraded cord size on a number of commercial lights.
My guess is that using a landing light as an extra-legal long range driving light is only cost effective if you get a good deal on landing lights, get the mounting buckets for next to nothing, and exercise a great deal of restraint in use.
Yeah, I thought about little 250 watt PAR36 landing lights or taxi lights to hide in the grille of a car with not much frontal area. But for driving, there are better options.
BTW, one of the best options is a handful of cars that were popular on the late 1960's, such as our 1967 Thunderbird: They had solidly mounted round headlights, and metal covers that hid the lights when not in use. Aiming does not go bad, like "pop-up" lights, and any non-stock appearing bulbs are out of sight when not in use. I really thought about fitting the T-bird with 5-3/4" Cibie H4's outboard, and installing those 150 watt sealed beam spots I have, in the inboard position. I could use only the H4's for "normal" high and low operation, click on the 150 watters for long range use. But that car seems to be stored at a restoration shop forever - or at least until I remedy my divorce-impoverished state, and I'll probably give it to my daughter instead of modifying it.
Also, while I like landing lights as spotlights, I've learned a few things about those. After many years of using Unity spotlights, in fire trucks, Hydro Operator work vehicles, personal trucks, etc. I've learned that the built-in Unity spotlights may be fine for a cop who uses them constantly, but they are a pain when kept for years of "occasional" use. Maybe it's our wet weather here, but they bind, develop poor contacts, have switch problems, and generally don't like sitting around in the weather.
What has worked for me on rural rescue vehicles, as well as occasionally on personal vehicles, is the type of handheld spotlight that can lock on and has an optional magnetic base. LSI lights have a captive nut. Another brand used to have a tapered socket and their base had a matching tapered "finger." Plug the light in the lighter, set it on the hood or roof, aimed at the work and locked on, and you don't need anyone to hold the light for you. Being stored inside when not in use, and being a simple light, it doesn't develop many problems.
Some years ago, I also picked up a suction-based "Go-Light" remote control spotlight. Not the wireless one, just a cheap wired model. But for occasional use it's OK.
I've built a few handheld lights, too. And I've upgraded cord size on a number of commercial lights.
My guess is that using a landing light as an extra-legal long range driving light is only cost effective if you get a good deal on landing lights, get the mounting buckets for next to nothing, and exercise a great deal of restraint in use.
Last edited:
