ar-15 weapon light

USM0083

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The idea of having assault rifle(s) at home still frightens me.....:faint::sick2:

I live next to a cemetary, so I have to be prepared. :thumbsup:

I'm not frightened. Then again, I carry a gun for a living and I get to play with full auto MP5s and M16 Commandos. :twothumbs
 

Soybomb

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The idea of having assault rifle(s) at home still frightens me.....:faint::sick2:

You can't be sure they're not causing mischief and chasing school children if you don't keep them at home. :laughing:

If it makes you feel any better though despite being scary and black they're usually far less powerful than grandpa's wood stocked hunting rifle that everyone thinks is just fine.
 

NickDrak

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Apr 17, 2007
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Chicago
I'd probably prefer it not be a surefire just for economy but isn't the e1e a 1 cell light? There's got to be a cree drop in that would get something around 60 lumens.

Surefire does make several 1xCR123 pocket lights, but none of them are compatible with the mount you picked, and no one that I know of makes any type of weapon mount for a E series pocket light. As far as economy goes, Im sure you've heard it here before, but if you buy a cheap light to try and save money, thats exactly what you will get....A cheap light that you will likely end up replacing with something you should have bought in the first place. As far as the battery storage issue goes, I think you are over thinking it waaay too much. The batteries on your optic and your light are not gonna run out at the same time, and if you are going to be out and about with your rifle for extended periods, you should carry more than 3 spare batteries on you anyway (in your pocket, in a pouch, etc.) Additionally, I do not think you are going to find anyone that makes a tapeswitch (If that is what you really want) that is compatible with any of the 1xCR123 lights out there.
 

Soybomb

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Surefire does make several 1xCR123 pocket lights, but none of them are compatible with the mount you picked, and no one that I know of makes any type of weapon mount for a E series pocket light.
That and compatibility with tape switches what was I was afraid of. The mount manu says " If they light body is between 0.7
and 1.1 inches in diameter and maintains a constant diameter for the length of its body, you should be OK." Thats part of what drove me to look at the knock offs from DX (hoping they would be less stylized and more likely to all use the same cap, etc).

The idea of not having two "assault rifles" and atleast 5,000 rounds of ammo for each of them frightens me.
If only...ammo prices :( The last time I bought ammo it was the 750ish round cans of radway green and I paid $130 a can....*sigh*.
 

Dead_Nuts

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Seriously, you might want to reconsider using an AR-15 for home defense.
Keep in mind that most homes are just wood frame and sheetrock for the most part, and any round fired inside the home (where you miss the perp) is going to sail right through the walls and create a hazard for people in other rooms of the house and even in homes nearby.

Think about hiding 3 or 4 pistols around the house where a perp won't imagine them to be but where you can get to them quickly.
9mm or .45 caliber lose energy quickly so either of those might be a bit safer for defense.
I've got two Bushmasters myself, but I never gave any thought of them for use as home defense.

Just thinkin...

Actually, the standard 55gr. FMJ ammo fired from an AR-15 will penetrate walls LESS than most any full-powered handgun ammo. This is extensively covered on AR15.com (and other weapons-related sites) and has been proven in many actual trials.

Check around on the internet and I'm sure you'll be able to substantiate what I'm saying. But do your own research. Don't believe me or anyone else when it comes to life and death matters such as collateral wounding, etc.

Here's a good start: http://www.olyarms.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=14&Itemid=26
 

aml

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Doesnt exactly fit the criteria you specified, but this is my take on an AR mounted weaponlight.

Pentagonlight x3, modded with SEOUL p4 by milkyspit.
In a Larue tactical light mount
with a pentagon tapeswitch on a tangodown grip.

200+ long lasting, far reaching lumens.


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Dead_Nuts

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Nice setup aml.

I go back and forth between tapeswitch and clicky tailcap. My last AR build utilizes the Daniel Defense 9.5FSP Lite FF rail and offset light mount to put the lights Z49 tailcap switch in just the perfect location for my weak thumb while using the vertical fore grip. It uses an old 9P body with shock isolating bezel (with FM33 red filter/cap) and Malkoff Q5 dropin. This setup gives me the option of night vision saving low red light output or a whole bunch of illumination. I like the ability to use momentary or click it on too.

The tapeswitch vs. clicky issue is very much personal preference and mission requirements based. Nothing works best for everyone.
 

aml

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Nice setup aml.

I go back and forth between tapeswitch and clicky tailcap. My last AR build utilizes the Daniel Defense 9.5FSP Lite FF rail and offset light mount to put the lights Z49 tailcap switch in just the perfect location for my weak thumb while using the vertical fore grip. It uses an old 9P body with shock isolating bezel (with FM33 red filter/cap) and Malkoff Q5 dropin. This setup gives me the option of night vision saving low red light output or a whole bunch of illumination. I like the ability to use momentary or click it on too.

The tapeswitch vs. clicky issue is very much personal preference and mission requirements based. Nothing works best for everyone.


im the same, ive switched back and forth a few times. i have a click on/off, and a momentary tailcap also.

ive found that with the momentary, i push so hard on it that i end up throwing off precision shots. with the clicky, i end up forgetting that i turned it on, and killing the battery.

lately ive been having good luck with the tapeswitch...i dont kill the battery, and i operating it doesnt seem to throw off my aim.

i mostly use the setup for jackrabbits at night.
 

Az_Tibor

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Surefire does make several 1xCR123 pocket lights, but none of them are compatible with the mount you picked, and no one that I know of makes any type of weapon mount for a E series pocket light.
...
Additionally, I do not think you are going to find anyone that makes a tapeswitch (If that is what you really want) that is compatible with any of the 1xCR123 lights out there.

Since you mentioned it, there are mounts and a tapeswitch for Surefire E series flashlights.

Vital Gear makes the MA1 mount, the above-mentioned Elzetta mount will fit the E series body, and Larue Tactical's mounts can be had for E series diameter lights; in addition, the Surefire Scout light is itself an E series weaponlight so its body could be considered an E series mount. However, except for the Elzetta, these options require your weapon to have a picatinny rail, which would be yet another accessory to buy.

Also, Surefire does make a tapeswitch for E series lights - specifically, for the Scout light, but it fits all E series lights including the 1-cell bodies.

So it would be possible for Soybomb to use a 1-cell E-series, either the E1e or E1L (or E1B Backup when it comes out, likely) in an E-series light mount on an attached picatinny rail, with an E-series tapeswitch... but it would be quite expensive... So I don't think that's what Soybomb is looking for.

My suggestion, like others, would be a G2, and not just the body but the entire light, along with a Cree drop-in, in that Elzetta mount. That way, Soybomb, if you ever change your mind or upgrade to a better weaponlight, you've still got a complete G2 flashlight that you can put to other uses; and if you don't, you're only out $15 or so. Overall, I think that would provide you the highest quality for a budget weapon light.
 

madecov

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Feb 16, 2003
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Houston, Texas
I don't have pictures (yet)
I'm running a STAG ARMS model 2 with SAMSON free float rail. I use a Daniel Defense offset mount and an inexpensive vertical grip.

The Wolf Eyes Q5 sniper fits perfectly. It does give off more flood than I like but the throw is nice.

I know it's not what the OP asked about but, it's what I run.
 

Barbarin

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Jul 30, 2001
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Pamplona- NA- Spain
We have spent some time and effort designing a new activation system for lights mounted on weapons. It is completely mechanical and has no wires at all.

In my opinion one of the best things we have done is to displace the attachment point from the main body of the light to the tailcap, making it really easy to turn for constant on or for safe position.

In the case I don't use the trigger tailcap option and I go for the "pushbutton mode" I have no problems keeping the left hand thumb over the pushbutton (I'm right handed) even when firing full auto.

I suppose that the size of the pushbutton and the activation force you need is very important.

What I would never choose would be a clicky.



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boosterboy

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Jan 26, 2007
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California
AR-15 are a bad choice for home defense (if you have to, try using hollow points), not to mention they won't look too good in court.

Unless your home is a ranch/ secluded area, ARs are bad idea for home defense.

Now using dealextreme lights is a bad idea, even for EDC, cause they are kinda unpredictable.

Have you ever held an incandescent and a LED light, side by side, same output rating, but the incandescent renders the scene with more depth.

If you plan to defend a small home or a room, an LED light will suffice, but it lacks color rendition like an incandescent. An incandescent will be useful when you need to engage targets that are 30 yards-40 yards away.

Go for like Pentagon X3, decent throw, shock isolated lamp, and doesn't break the bank.
 

aml

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Nov 1, 2006
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