Torchaddict
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2012
- Messages
- 121
XM-L mod completed. See post #19 for details.
Nichia High CRI mod completed. See post #34 for details.
Just snatched up my grail light (and my very first EDC!) the Arc6 and wanted to make a 'centralized' Arc6 mod thread as I couldn't really find one.
Some pics that made me fall in love:
Now I'm thinking about upgrading the emitter itself. This will be my first mod, but I think it'll be easy since I have some soldering experience and the Arc6 is supposedly upgrade-friendly. The tough part is deciding on which LED to use. I was thinking about a Cree XM-L, but then I read this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?291586-I-think-I-ve-figured-out-the-weak-link-in-the-Arc6.
And it seems that a Cree MC-E is also a good alternative and may even extend run-times by quite a bit! I've PMed fyrstomer about it and will update this thread accordingly.
EDIT: I'm just a beginner here, so as I understand, the MC-E has a much lower Vf (forward voltage) than the stock P4 and thus takes less energy (watts) at a certain current. Stock Arc6's can draw 4-5A from the battery on level 7 whilst putting 1.5A through the LED. Replacing the LED to one with a lower Vf should slightly extend runtimes. I'll update once I complete my mod with an efficient XM-L.
Anyways, would just like to see the mods that some people have done to their Arc6 and what recommendations anyone has on the emitter that I should use.
If anyone also knows the general current draw for each of the levels, that would be great too EDIT: (Found regulated current for each lvl. see below) . Here are the lumen ratings with P4.
LUMENS
NOTE: L1 and L7 are only semi regulated to provide the longest runtime and highest output respectively. Different LEDs will draw different amounts of current in these settings (from my experience).
CURRENT THROUGH LED
Below are the estimated current levels through the LED (useful in determining expected output on future LED mods).
L1 - 1mA (semi-regulated)
L2 - 80mA
L3 - 250mA
L4 - 500mA
L5 - 700mA
L6 - 1A
L7 - 1.4A (semi-regulated)
TOTAL CURRENT DRAWN AND RUNTIMES
Below are the measured current levels of my Arc6 (currently with Seoul SSC P4) from a Powerizer 1300mAh 3.0V CR123a PTC protected Battery (current drawn from battery can be around 4-5A from a IMR CR123A battery on L7!) and the associated runtime if the level is maintained (Peter G stated that actual runtimes may be slightly longer since the Arc6 can run on very depleted batteries).
Arc6 w/ Seoul SSC P4 and Powerizer 3.0V PTC Protected CR123A Primary Battery
L1 - 6mA = 216 hrs
L2 - 150mA = 8.67 hrs
L3 - 540mA = 2.4 hrs
L4 - 1200mA (3.0V RC123A protected primary apparently only has a max current discharge of 1A) = 1hr
L5 - 1200mA = 1hr
L6 - 1200mA = 1hr
L7 - 1200mA = 1hr
Arc6 w/ Cree XM-L and Powerizer 3.0V PTC Protected CR123A Primary Battery
L1 - 18mA = 72 hrs
L2 - 150mA = 8.67 hrs
L3 - 540mA = 2.4 hrs
L4 - 1200mA (3.0V RC123A protected primary apparently only has a max current discharge of 1A) = 1hr
L5 - 1200mA = 1hr
L6 - 1200mA = 1hr
L7 - 1200mA = 1hr
Arc6 w/ Nichia 219 and Powerizer 3.0V PTC Protected CR123A Primary Battery
L1 - 10mA = 130 hrs
L2 - 150mA = 8.67 hrs
L3 - 540mA = 2.4 hrs
L4 - 1200mA (3.0V RC123A protected primary apparently only has a max current discharge of 1A) = 1hr
L5 - 1200mA = 1hr
L6 - 1200mA = 1hr
L7 - 1200mA = 1hr
Of course, these are theoretical numbers. It's not advised to draw near 1A with a PTC protected CR123A battery. It'll reduce its capacity greatly (lasting minutes instead of 1hr). So the law of diminishing returns is exaggerated in this case. I wish I had a IMR RC123A to test this light out with. If anyone can provide current draws from their battery/LED setup, I'll update the thread accordingly.
Thanks!
MAINTENANCE/REPLACEMENT PARTS
Due to the discontinuation of the Arc6, I figured that I'd make this thread a source for compatible replacement parts. If you guys know of compatible replacement parts/sources for the Arc6, be my guest and show me your input.
Parts
As of Mid 2012, the following parts can still be brought directly from Arc Flashlight:
Guarded Sleeves (with titanium clip)
Unguarded Sleeves
UCL Window/Optic
Reflector (Seoul P4, but works lots of current emitters as well)
Lubrication/grease
Piston Drive maintenance/grease preferences can be found in this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?242414-Comprehensive-Grease-and-Lube-Thread
O-rings
The stock Arc6 uses 3 red silicone o-rings of 2 different sizes. Both the o-rings in the head are the same, while the one on the piston drive is slightly smaller.
The replacement dimensions of the the O-rings are listed as:
1x Head O-ring: #17
1x Piston O-ring: #15/16
1x Bezel Window O-ring: #19
USER MODIFICATIONS
PS: And since this is a Arc6 mod thread, I've included some relevant threads/pics below (will update thread as more mods are found)
Note, Pics are NOT mine. Credit goes to the true owners.
Discussion of upgrading LEDs:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?327232-Anyone-else-miss-their-ARC-6
Arc6 with Cree XM-L:
Arc6 with Cree MC-E: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ey-said-it-couldn-t-be-done.-I-did-it-anyway.
Arc6 with Cree XPG emitter:
Arc6 with Nichia 219 High CRI
With Trit Piston Mod (triple trits and larger surface area for thumb press without button bevel):
With O-ring Rubber grip mod:
With McGizmo C-Pak mod (changes UI into a twist to change mode clicky):
With McGizmo PD Pak:
With Grip Ring mod (I like this one. Wished Arc would have designed the unguarded sleeve with a grip in the first place):
Makes you wonder if anyone has tried a flush button Arc6 PD on their McGizmo.......
Everyone knows that the Arc6 got its heritage from the legendary McLuxIII series PD lights. The inside of which looks like this:
McLuxIII PD Head (notice two large drilled holes for the + and - LED power leads and the singular smaller hole for the mounting screw for the board)
Contrast to the Arc6 guts:
Seoul P4 on the left and a "popular/original" Luxeon K2 TFFC mod on the right. Arc overuses the thermal grease on their lights. The right picture is much cleaner due to the modder's skills.
As with the McGizmo, there are two holes for the + and - LED leads (3 and 9 o'clock with the LED) and a mounting screw for the converter board (silver end of the screw is seen at 6 of the LED). Also note the large circuit element at 12 o'clock which I believe is the temperature monitor for the Arc6 (correct me if I am wrong). EDIT: It has been confirmed that the device is an inductor by several sources, not a temperature sensor as I haphazardly thought (see post #12).
Arc6 + Cree XM-L + Carclo TIR (narrow, clear) (see post #15 for Fyrstormer's Arc6 + Cree MCE + frosted TIR)
Nichia High CRI mod completed. See post #34 for details.
Just snatched up my grail light (and my very first EDC!) the Arc6 and wanted to make a 'centralized' Arc6 mod thread as I couldn't really find one.
Some pics that made me fall in love:
Now I'm thinking about upgrading the emitter itself. This will be my first mod, but I think it'll be easy since I have some soldering experience and the Arc6 is supposedly upgrade-friendly. The tough part is deciding on which LED to use. I was thinking about a Cree XM-L, but then I read this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?291586-I-think-I-ve-figured-out-the-weak-link-in-the-Arc6.
And it seems that a Cree MC-E is also a good alternative and may even extend run-times by quite a bit! I've PMed fyrstomer about it and will update this thread accordingly.
EDIT: I'm just a beginner here, so as I understand, the MC-E has a much lower Vf (forward voltage) than the stock P4 and thus takes less energy (watts) at a certain current. Stock Arc6's can draw 4-5A from the battery on level 7 whilst putting 1.5A through the LED. Replacing the LED to one with a lower Vf should slightly extend runtimes. I'll update once I complete my mod with an efficient XM-L.
Anyways, would just like to see the mods that some people have done to their Arc6 and what recommendations anyone has on the emitter that I should use.
If anyone also knows the general current draw for each of the levels, that would be great too EDIT: (Found regulated current for each lvl. see below) . Here are the lumen ratings with P4.
LUMENS
Here's what the output of the Arc6 (P4) with a rechargeable 123 is at each level:
- Level 1: <1 lumen
- Level 2: 7 lumens
- Level 3: 35 lumens
- Level 4: 70 lumens
- Level 5: 100 lumens
- Level 6: at least 120 lumens
- Level 7: >120 lumens
Here's a guess of the output of the Arc6 with a Cree XM-L T6 is at each level:
- L1 - <18mA (unknown) = ~8 lumens
- L2 - 80mA = 35 lumens
- L3 - 250mA = 100 lumens
- L4 - 500mA = 200 lumens
- L5 - 700mA = 275 lumens
- L6 - 1A = 400 lumens
- L7 - ~1.4A (unknown) = 500 lumens
NOTE: L1 and L7 are only semi regulated to provide the longest runtime and highest output respectively. Different LEDs will draw different amounts of current in these settings (from my experience).
CURRENT THROUGH LED
Below are the estimated current levels through the LED (useful in determining expected output on future LED mods).
L1 - 1mA (semi-regulated)
L2 - 80mA
L3 - 250mA
L4 - 500mA
L5 - 700mA
L6 - 1A
L7 - 1.4A (semi-regulated)
TOTAL CURRENT DRAWN AND RUNTIMES
Below are the measured current levels of my Arc6 (currently with Seoul SSC P4) from a Powerizer 1300mAh 3.0V CR123a PTC protected Battery (current drawn from battery can be around 4-5A from a IMR CR123A battery on L7!) and the associated runtime if the level is maintained (Peter G stated that actual runtimes may be slightly longer since the Arc6 can run on very depleted batteries).
Arc6 w/ Seoul SSC P4 and Powerizer 3.0V PTC Protected CR123A Primary Battery
L1 - 6mA = 216 hrs
L2 - 150mA = 8.67 hrs
L3 - 540mA = 2.4 hrs
L4 - 1200mA (3.0V RC123A protected primary apparently only has a max current discharge of 1A) = 1hr
L5 - 1200mA = 1hr
L6 - 1200mA = 1hr
L7 - 1200mA = 1hr
Arc6 w/ Cree XM-L and Powerizer 3.0V PTC Protected CR123A Primary Battery
L1 - 18mA = 72 hrs
L2 - 150mA = 8.67 hrs
L3 - 540mA = 2.4 hrs
L4 - 1200mA (3.0V RC123A protected primary apparently only has a max current discharge of 1A) = 1hr
L5 - 1200mA = 1hr
L6 - 1200mA = 1hr
L7 - 1200mA = 1hr
Arc6 w/ Nichia 219 and Powerizer 3.0V PTC Protected CR123A Primary Battery
L1 - 10mA = 130 hrs
L2 - 150mA = 8.67 hrs
L3 - 540mA = 2.4 hrs
L4 - 1200mA (3.0V RC123A protected primary apparently only has a max current discharge of 1A) = 1hr
L5 - 1200mA = 1hr
L6 - 1200mA = 1hr
L7 - 1200mA = 1hr
Of course, these are theoretical numbers. It's not advised to draw near 1A with a PTC protected CR123A battery. It'll reduce its capacity greatly (lasting minutes instead of 1hr). So the law of diminishing returns is exaggerated in this case. I wish I had a IMR RC123A to test this light out with. If anyone can provide current draws from their battery/LED setup, I'll update the thread accordingly.
Thanks!
MAINTENANCE/REPLACEMENT PARTS
Due to the discontinuation of the Arc6, I figured that I'd make this thread a source for compatible replacement parts. If you guys know of compatible replacement parts/sources for the Arc6, be my guest and show me your input.
Parts
As of Mid 2012, the following parts can still be brought directly from Arc Flashlight:
Guarded Sleeves (with titanium clip)
Unguarded Sleeves
UCL Window/Optic
Reflector (Seoul P4, but works lots of current emitters as well)
Lubrication/grease
Piston Drive maintenance/grease preferences can be found in this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?242414-Comprehensive-Grease-and-Lube-Thread
O-rings
The stock Arc6 uses 3 red silicone o-rings of 2 different sizes. Both the o-rings in the head are the same, while the one on the piston drive is slightly smaller.
The replacement dimensions of the the O-rings are listed as:
1x Head O-ring: #17
1x Piston O-ring: #15/16
1x Bezel Window O-ring: #19
USER MODIFICATIONS
PS: And since this is a Arc6 mod thread, I've included some relevant threads/pics below (will update thread as more mods are found)
Note, Pics are NOT mine. Credit goes to the true owners.
Discussion of upgrading LEDs:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?327232-Anyone-else-miss-their-ARC-6
Arc6 with Cree XM-L:
Arc6 with Cree MC-E: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ey-said-it-couldn-t-be-done.-I-did-it-anyway.
Arc6 with Cree XPG emitter:
Arc6 with Nichia 219 High CRI
With Trit Piston Mod (triple trits and larger surface area for thumb press without button bevel):
With O-ring Rubber grip mod:
With McGizmo C-Pak mod (changes UI into a twist to change mode clicky):
With McGizmo PD Pak:
With Grip Ring mod (I like this one. Wished Arc would have designed the unguarded sleeve with a grip in the first place):
Makes you wonder if anyone has tried a flush button Arc6 PD on their McGizmo.......
Everyone knows that the Arc6 got its heritage from the legendary McLuxIII series PD lights. The inside of which looks like this:
McLuxIII PD Head (notice two large drilled holes for the + and - LED power leads and the singular smaller hole for the mounting screw for the board)
Contrast to the Arc6 guts:
Seoul P4 on the left and a "popular/original" Luxeon K2 TFFC mod on the right. Arc overuses the thermal grease on their lights. The right picture is much cleaner due to the modder's skills.
As with the McGizmo, there are two holes for the + and - LED leads (3 and 9 o'clock with the LED) and a mounting screw for the converter board (silver end of the screw is seen at 6 of the LED). Also note the large circuit element at 12 o'clock which I believe is the temperature monitor for the Arc6 (correct me if I am wrong). EDIT: It has been confirmed that the device is an inductor by several sources, not a temperature sensor as I haphazardly thought (see post #12).
Arc6 + Cree XM-L + Carclo TIR (narrow, clear) (see post #15 for Fyrstormer's Arc6 + Cree MCE + frosted TIR)
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