Automotive 3/6/9A driver - feeler thread
- Thread starter DIWdiver
- Start date
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register_990
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
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- 2
This looks to be just what I'm after.
Please would you PM me a copy of your draft datasheet.
Thank you!
Please would you PM me a copy of your draft datasheet.
Thank you!
DIWdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
No problem. Oh, yes there is a problem. I don't know your e-mail address!
You can PM me, post it, or e-mail me at [email protected]
DIWdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
Not yet. I just found out there was a week-long holiday in China, starting October 1. It appears the boards haven't shipped yet. Hopefully they will ship in the next few days. Either way, it looks like we have a few weeks to wait.
On the bright side, all the rest of the parts are here!
On the bright side, all the rest of the parts are here!
Tonka truck 2.0
Newly Enlightened
This has been a very interesting thread to read.
Im new to just about everything that im reading here so I'll most likely be asking plenty of questions in the near future as to how i connect all the bits and pieces together. I would also be very interested in your drivers101 thread because i understand very little about them.
Could I please have a copy of the pdf file? my email is [email protected]
Once i know a bit more i would certainly like to order two most likley to make my own light setup which will be for off road purposes only and on private property.
Thank you in advance.
chris
Im new to just about everything that im reading here so I'll most likely be asking plenty of questions in the near future as to how i connect all the bits and pieces together. I would also be very interested in your drivers101 thread because i understand very little about them.
Could I please have a copy of the pdf file? my email is [email protected]
Once i know a bit more i would certainly like to order two most likley to make my own light setup which will be for off road purposes only and on private property.
Thank you in advance.
chris
I would have to suggest that the driver's voltage safety cutoff to be bumped up to 15 volts. Being that I work on cars for a living, and many cars will have a sitting voltage of about 12.3-12.6, cranking voltage of about 8.5-9.5 volts, and running voltage (diesels included) from 12.6-14.5.....
i have a tool, that is a data logger that records amperage and voltage on vehicles during all driving conditions, and have LOTS of files...... I have never seen a voltage level over 20v, even as a spike.
amperage is a different story. When starting I have seen over 500 amps, and when recovering from the start event, 220 amps.
i would LOVE to buy a few of these, as I have been looking for some LED drivers to make a spot light for my pig hunting escapades.....
i have a tool, that is a data logger that records amperage and voltage on vehicles during all driving conditions, and have LOTS of files...... I have never seen a voltage level over 20v, even as a spike.
amperage is a different story. When starting I have seen over 500 amps, and when recovering from the start event, 220 amps.
i would LOVE to buy a few of these, as I have been looking for some LED drivers to make a spot light for my pig hunting escapades.....
DIWdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for your suggestion. I always value actual test data more highly than rules and suggestions.
The overvoltage cutout is currently set to 14.9V, with all components being 1% accuracy. This indicates that even in extreme cases, the driver would not cut out below 14.6V. Does your data suggest this might actually cause the driver to cut out during normal operation of a vehicle? You mentioned voltages as high as 14.5V, not higher. The cutout voltage is easily changed if the data suggests it's too low. The next step up would be about 0.17V higher.
The overvoltage cutout is currently set to 14.9V, with all components being 1% accuracy. This indicates that even in extreme cases, the driver would not cut out below 14.6V. Does your data suggest this might actually cause the driver to cut out during normal operation of a vehicle? You mentioned voltages as high as 14.5V, not higher. The cutout voltage is easily changed if the data suggests it's too low. The next step up would be about 0.17V higher.
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If you put it at 15.07, like your next step up suggests I would be very confident to say that your driver will never be requested to turn off on vehicles with normal and correctly functional charging systems.
if you like, I can try to find a file to stick on here that can show you a vehicles process of starting up (I work on BMW's for a living - and they have alternators that are in upwards of 180 amps!) to show you that upper 14v areas are common when trying to recover from a starting event.
you said in extreme cases 14.6..... I can see that being hit by some cars at certain times..... When a heavy load was on the car and its suddenly shut off (headlights/winch/etc) the alternator in most cases cannot react that quickly and will spike the voltage momentarily.
a smidge over 15v and I call it good for 98% of your customers.
but in *most* cases your going to see 13.7-14.2 running.
i would also highly suggest that the end user checks their alternator ripple.....
its very simple and I'm sure most of your end users will have a DVOM at the house.
measure across the battery while on A/C.... It should be under .1 volt. Anything more than that will kill modules and create havoc on electronics
if you like, I can try to find a file to stick on here that can show you a vehicles process of starting up (I work on BMW's for a living - and they have alternators that are in upwards of 180 amps!) to show you that upper 14v areas are common when trying to recover from a starting event.
you said in extreme cases 14.6..... I can see that being hit by some cars at certain times..... When a heavy load was on the car and its suddenly shut off (headlights/winch/etc) the alternator in most cases cannot react that quickly and will spike the voltage momentarily.
a smidge over 15v and I call it good for 98% of your customers.
but in *most* cases your going to see 13.7-14.2 running.
i would also highly suggest that the end user checks their alternator ripple.....
its very simple and I'm sure most of your end users will have a DVOM at the house.
measure across the battery while on A/C.... It should be under .1 volt. Anything more than that will kill modules and create havoc on electronics
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I can see you points but I suspect that this voltage cut off has already been set. With the scenarios that you mentioned I really do not see it being an issue. If your auxiliary lights cut out for a few seconds at vehicle startup that's not really a big deal. If this setting will protect the rest of my equipment better I can live with it. The last thing I need is 72 emitters crapping the bed @ $10 each.
DIWdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
Changing the cutoff threshold is not an issue. It would cost me about $3.00 and five minutes to buy new resistors. I'd really rather get the right point than leave it alone.
However, I'm with DKlaser on this, if the aux lights shut off briefly when you do certain things, that's probably not an issue. The worst load dump recovery times IIRC were around 400 mS. People will barely notice it.
However there's something else I haven't mentioned. There's about 0.28V of hysteresis in the cutoff voltage, so once it cuts out, it won't turn back on until the voltage has dropped that far below the cutoff voltage. I'm thinking the first thing I should do is reduce the hysteresis to around 0.1V.
The cutoff is mostly about protecting the driver. As long as the driver survives, it will protect the LEDs from whatever happens in the vehicle. High voltages need to be shut off quickly to protect the driver from overheating before the thermal protection can activate. Low overvoltages (say, up to 16V) aren't much danger to a properly installed driver, because the thermal protection will activate before dangerous temperatures are reached.
So I guess the combination of increasing the cutoff voltage a little and reducing the hysteresis should get us to a good point.
Thanks for your input.
However, I'm with DKlaser on this, if the aux lights shut off briefly when you do certain things, that's probably not an issue. The worst load dump recovery times IIRC were around 400 mS. People will barely notice it.
However there's something else I haven't mentioned. There's about 0.28V of hysteresis in the cutoff voltage, so once it cuts out, it won't turn back on until the voltage has dropped that far below the cutoff voltage. I'm thinking the first thing I should do is reduce the hysteresis to around 0.1V.
The cutoff is mostly about protecting the driver. As long as the driver survives, it will protect the LEDs from whatever happens in the vehicle. High voltages need to be shut off quickly to protect the driver from overheating before the thermal protection can activate. Low overvoltages (say, up to 16V) aren't much danger to a properly installed driver, because the thermal protection will activate before dangerous temperatures are reached.
So I guess the combination of increasing the cutoff voltage a little and reducing the hysteresis should get us to a good point.
Thanks for your input.
DIWdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
I got some bad news last night. It seems I made a mistake in sending the files to the board maker. I didn't find out until I e-mailed asking why I hadn't received a shipping notice yet. It was a couple days overdue, even considering the holiday. I sent the correct files last night and now the clock starts over. Bummer.
I have been using the time to work on Drivers101. Chapter 1 is coming along nicely.
I have been using the time to work on Drivers101. Chapter 1 is coming along nicely.
DIWdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
I haven't heard from the board house yet. I'll e-mail them shortly and ask what's up. They should have shipped by now.
Yes, it will be in installments. Hopefully I'm near to wrapping up the first one.
Yes, it will be in installments. Hopefully I'm near to wrapping up the first one.
DIWdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
Boards shipped yesterday 
Now we just have to wait for the post 
Now we just have to wait for the post 
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