Aux headlamps for Ford truck with weak LEDs?

[-Virgil-]

That frame-mount bar looks like a better idea than the bumper-mount item I linked (pedestrians unlucky enough to get hit probably don't have a preference which one destroys their legs).

Regular relays draw almost no current; the computer won't see it or care about it. I have no info on this generic solid-state relay (or so it claims, I have my doubts on that) you linked to, but the seller's description has that "English as a very difficult second language" feel about it, and that offer of theirs to apply whatever brand name the buyer wants is sketchy as all nuts:

The item no paper instructions, please download the PDF file, and before buying please read the file:
http://www.аudіоwіnd.com/new-pdf/f-1001.pdf

Other, we can support customer customized order, if your order >=100 units, you can change product label, logo and switch type (SPST-NO / SPST-NC / SPDT).

Following that link to аudіоwіnd.com (minus the pdf) leads us to the seller's stores on eBay and AliExpress (Ding Ding Red Flag Ding!), where we find an invitation to email the seller directly at lіѕhеng@сhunzеhuі.com . As I suspected. I can't guarantee this product is a piece of junk, but almost.
(Then there's the price. A SPST solid state relay from a reputable maker, you're looking at $20+ apiece in low quantities.)

Yes, it's a better idea to use a standard, easy-find relay. Pick a good brand: Tyco-Bosch, PB, Omron and Flosser would be my short list (in no specific order). Try to use a relay that has two 87 terminals -- not a single 87 and not an 87 and an 87a and not an 87a and an 87b.

 

[kingofwylietx]

That frame-mount bar looks like a better idea than the bumper-mount item I linked (pedestrians unlucky enough to get hit probably don't have a preference which one destroys their legs).

I sure hope to never, ever, need to ask anyone if they could imagine being hit by the other bar you linked, would they have had a preference of it over the one I chose. I see what you are saying, it's certainly a less forgiving design than perhaps a plain stock bumper.

Regular relays draw almost no current; the computer won't see it or care about it. I have no info on this generic solid-state relay (or so it claims, I have my doubts on that) you linked to, but the seller's description has that "English as a very difficult second language" feel about it, and that offer of theirs to apply whatever brand name the buyer wants is sketchy as all nuts:

The item no paper instructions, please download the PDF file, and before buying please read the file:
http://www.аudіоwіnd.com/new-pdf/f-1001.pdf

Other, we can support customer customized order, if your order >=100 units, you can change product label, logo and switch type (SPST-NO / SPST-NC / SPDT).

Following that link to аudіоwіnd.com (minus the pdf) leads us to the seller's stores on eBay and AliExpress (Ding Ding Red Flag Ding!), where we find an invitation to email the seller directly at lіѕhеng@сhunzеhuі.com . As I suspected. I can't guarantee this product is a piece of junk, but almost.
(Then there's the price. A SPST solid state relay from a reputable maker, you're looking at $20+ apiece in low quantities.)

I missed all that when I bought them. I'm glad you brought that to my attention. It certainly removes any vestiges of hope that were dangling in my mind that somehow I may have gotten lucky with buying them.

Yes, it's a better idea to use a standard, easy-find relay. Pick a good brand: Tyco-Bosch, PB, Omron and Flosser would be my short list (in no specific order). Try to use a relay that has two 87 terminals -- not a single 87 and not an 87 and an 87a and not an 87a and an 87b.

That is very useful info! I know and trust Bosch and Omron, I'll just order a few of whichever of the two I can source most easily. So, I've used relays in the past and have never given any thought about selecting one specifically to have two 87 terminals. I'll dig around and make sure I get that feature. I've been on here long enough to trust your words on these things, but I am very curious as to the advantage of what you are recommending. It is obviously more than a labeling function...so I've fully discounted the notion that you simply have a predilection for the number 87. I only know how to wire relays, but have no real technical knowledge as to what may make one style better than another one. Please enlighten me, and thank you for your help so far.

 

[-Virgil-]

87 is the power output terminal that goes live (connects to terminal 30, which is your power input terminal) when 85/86 have power across them. 87a is opposite, it goes live when 85/86 don't have power across them. If you're trying to power a pair of lights, a pair of fans, a pair of anything, it's usually better and easier to be able to run a wire from the relay to the load...two output terminals, two loads, one wire from each to each, simple and clean. If you are trying to power a pair of loads from one 87 terminals, there has to be a split or a piggyback somewhere. Usually harder and not as optimal.

 

[Magio]

Hella is also another very reputable relay mfg and they make some solid state ones.

This one is designed for auxiliary lighting but I'm still not sure if its the config you need.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-h41773001/applications

 

[-Virgil-]

Hella is also another very reputable relay mfg

Used to be, but the reliability of Hella standard relays is not what it used to be, and not up to the level of the other brands already mentioned. Their solid state relays are good but (1) expensive and (2) unnecessary/not beneficial for lighting applications. As far as I know, they also don't offer one with two 87 terminals.

 

[kingofwylietx]

87 is the power output terminal that goes live (connects to terminal 30, which is your power input terminal) when 85/86 have power across them. 87a is opposite, it goes live when 85/86 don't have power across them. If you're trying to power a pair of lights, a pair of fans, a pair of anything, it's usually better and easier to be able to run a wire from the relay to the load...two output terminals, two loads, one wire from each to each, simple and clean. If you are trying to power a pair of loads from one 87 terminals, there has to be a split or a piggyback somewhere. Usually harder and not as optimal.

Great explanation, Virgil. That is better and easier than splicing somewhere else, thanks!

 

[Bill Idaho]

Deleted. Double post. Sorry.

 

[Bill Idaho]

The voice of experience- those "CARR front license plate with light wings" mentioned above DO NOT work with anything heavier than el-cheapo China-Mart plastic lights. With lights that have any weight to them, such as JW Speakers, that light bar thing WILL flutter and shimmy from normal road vibrations. I had one on my 2003 Dodge 2500 and ended up tossing it, even after trying to beef it up with additional steel bars/etc.
It is maybe a good idea, but just didn't work in my application.

 

[kingofwylietx]

The voice of experience- those "CARR front license plate with light wings" mentioned above DO NOT work with anything heavier than el-cheapo China-Mart plastic lights. With lights that have any weight to them, such as JW Speakers, that light bar thing WILL flutter and shimmy from normal road vibrations. I had one on my 2003 Dodge 2500 and ended up tossing it, even after trying to beef it up with additional steel bars/etc.
It is maybe a good idea, but just didn't work in my application.

That is why I went with the Nfab bar. It mounts to the bumper/frame tie-in. I wanted to be certain that I would avoid having jiggly lights. Plus, at $800 for the Speaker lights, I didn't want to take ANY chance of them falling off. Normally, I'm a frugal guy...except on vehicle lights. I don't mind spending on them, since I end up driving so much at night. Frequently, that night driving is in unfamiliar semi-rural areas.

 

[eggsalad]

The junkyard is full of automotive-grade relays, many of which use standard form factor terminals and connectors. I can't remember the last time I bought a brand-new relay.

 

[kingofwylietx]

The junkyard is full of automotive-grade relays, many of which use standard form factor terminals and connectors. I can't remember the last time I bought a brand-new relay.

It's a good thought and I appreciate the input. However, between work, family time, lots of kids sports and clubs...I just don't have the time. I'm going to order them tomorrow and they'll be at my house when I get home. If My kids were grown or if I didn't have them yet, I'd consider that.

 

[kingofwylietx]

I have my light bar mounted, now I'm waiting to mount the lights for when I have my 2x87 relays.
Virgil, do you think these would be okay? They are Hella brand....so maybe they are questionable?

Relay with 2x87
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hella/288/933791061/10002/-1

Relay housing for 4 relays
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hella/288/H84988001/10002/-1

I'll need a relay for:
1- low beam
1- high beam
2- turn signals (one for left, one for right)

DRL function will be powered by an Add-A-Circuit that I will integrate to a circuit that is live when the truck is running.

 

[SubLGT]

You might find this useful:

https://www.delcity.net/images/linedrawings/Relay Diagram.pdf

https://www.delcity.net/store/Relays-&-Power-Distribution/

If the OE lighting relays in your truck have an internal resistor or diode to suppress voltage spikes, you should consider buying aftermarket relays with the same feature.

 

[kingofwylietx]

....
If the OE lighting relays in your truck have an internal resistor or diode to suppress voltage spikes, you should consider buying aftermarket relays with the same feature.

Thanks for the info. I'll find out which ones they are and research the part numbers to see if they have resistors or diodes.

 

[kingofwylietx]

I finally got the lights installed. I was lucky to track down 2 factory connectors that had approx 6" of wire on each one...that when assembled together allowed me to put this between the factory headlight and factory wiring harness. This way, I didn't have to modify my original truck wiring harness. I can easily put it back as stock by removing this added section.

The JW Speaker lights are great. They are warmer in color temperature than my factory LED headlights. The beam pattern has a nice sharp upper cutoff. They definitely brighten things up and extend my illuminated area further than stock. I now need to aim them, fortunately Speaker has those instructions on their website.

I am only disappointed in the Speaker mounting bracket. Properly torqued or over-tightened, the lights are still too easy to move. This movement will change the vertical direction of the beam. Today, I was going with traffic on a 75 mph highway, which means I was driving 80 mph. It was daylight, but I do wonder if the air pressure at those speeds combined with some bumps on the road will have my lights constantly adjusting themselves upward. I don't know why it is so easy to move. I'm guessing it may be the black coating on the lights. I may remove the bolt that holds the light and file away that coating. I suspect that the stainless steel bracket would hold better against bare aluminum. Another idea is that I could use my Dremel with a grinding stone inserted to rough up the contact points of the light and mounting bracket.

Either way, I'll get it handled. Once I've done that, I'll aim the lights.

 

[-Virgil-]

Good going! Sounds like you are almost there. The aim instructions JW Speaker gives are a little bit "funny". Not completely wrong, but not completely right either...reminds me of a game my kids used to play in groups when they were little, called "Operator" (or maybe "Telephone"): they'd sit in a circle and the leader would whisper something into his neighbor's ear, who would turn around and whisper it in the next kid's ear, and so on until it arrived back at the kid on the other side of the leader. Then that kid would say what he heard (out loud) and the leader would say the original message. They were never the same, though there was usually a pretty good amount of the original wording still present. You will want to double-check your aiming plans using this guide. And it's correct about the large advantage of machine aim versus "look on the wall" aim, so try to find a shop with the optical machine.

Most of the JW Speaker headlights can be aimed either VOL (using the wide cutoff at the top of the left side of the beam) or VOR (using the cutoff, which is usually narrow, at the top of the right side of the hot spot). If you can spend the time and/or get on friendly terms with whoever is operating the aim machine, it's worth figuring out which one results in lower/higher aim and choosing wisely in accordance with how often the lamps are going to be tipped up further than you intend (because you're carrying or towing a heavy load in the back).

Let us know how it goes with figuring out how to keep the aim where it's supposed to be. There used to be stabilizer arms meant to be installed going from the back of the aux lamp housing "bowl" to a rigid point somewhere behind, to prevent exactly this kind of aim shift. I bought a pair of nice ones from Dan Stern six or seven years ago. That would require drilling, though. Maybe before you go that way, see if you can add some lockwashers and a Nylock nut to the lamps' pivot assemblies.

 

[kingofwylietx]

It's unlikely I'll ever have enough in the truck bed at nighttime to worry about that. Im carrying mulch from the yard center at noon or moving some furniture around during the day. If I'm on a trip, I might have some luggage in the back, but nothing heavy.

The lights came with a nylock nut on the pivot point. I really think it's the slick coating on the housing that is messing with me.

I looked on Dan Sterns website and didn't see any of the stabilizer bars, you might have gotten his last set. So....I've come up with what I think is an ingenious idea to make my stabilizer arms. I'm pretty excited about crafting it. I found turnbuckles made for 1/5 scale R/C cars. They are available in stainless steel, titanium, or nickel plated steel rods (in many different lengths). The ends are available in all sorts of styles and come in heavy nylon or aluminum. This way, once attached, I can get them aimed and lock in the position. I bought the nickel plated rods and nylon ends to try out...they are the cheapest combination of parts. I'll take a picture once I get the first arms attached, so you can actually see what it looks like.

Maybe your stabilizer bars are taking up some space in the garage you'd like to reclaim?

 

[-Virgil-]

My stabilizer bars went with those lights (and that truck) a couple years ago. They weren't on his website back then, either -- I asked and he said yes. I don't recall them being very expensive.

Your solution with the turnbuckles sounds intriguing. Take pictures and post them here?

 

[kingofwylietx]

I hope to have time this weekend to start drilling. Before I do that, I took some pictures of the idea using parts I've ordered and scavenged.

This is what it would look like, does anyone have any better ideas or thoughts before I pop holes in my bumper & lights to do it?

Here are the pictures: http://s241.photobucket.com/user/kingofwylietx/library/Light brackets

 

[Alaric Darconville]

That looks pretty stable right there. I may do something similar when I mount a single Bosch auxiliary high beam on my friend's RX300. I finally found just the right spot to mount it on the bumper where it won't mechanically interfere with opening the hood, but I still need a way to keep it stable. It may require a different lamp location to do a brace like that, though