Big Guns - Olight SR90 or Fenix TK70

380long

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I now have 3 of Wayne's lights from Elektrolumens and have not had any problems in dealing with him but I have never been in on the ground floor of one of his projects as 357mag1 has. I think Wayne's lights have a tremendous build quality but I can not speak for the long term durability as my oldest light is only maybe 3 to 4 months old. I just received a Blaster SST-90 today and have been playing with the light outside this evening and so far I am impressed although I have other light that fit this role. Not sure what I will do different with this light but felt the need to buy it...the ST90 Search & Rescue will be my next purchase or the Niteye Eye25 when it hits the shelves.
 

357mag1

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You are right that Kevin is great to deal with, great communication and service - electro has had some hiccups.
How ever you say lambdas lights are custom but really they are hybrid lights made from 2 differant lights (if you get the turbo 2) a maglite and a $10 Chinese light, but he puts his own guts in.
The varapower I had was bright but didn't handle the heat well in a small mag head so I bought a 2.5' throw head from 5mega and that helped - still the led popped from over heating from lack of mass, but I know he's fixed that now.
Other things I didn't like was the switch was always touchy and flickered if touched or bumped, also switch wobbled/rattled as it has no weather seal around it through the body (infact you can shine a light between the switch and body and see inside) that always bothered me and when I mentioned it to Kevin about rain getting in because I need it to handle rain for work he said just face the switch down and rain won't get in (fail IMO) also NiMh batteries can loose up to 5% of their charge per day just sitting - they are heavy, can leak under load as someone said and the rattled no end which anoyed me.

The ST90 was built from the ground up and is like a tank - and the led is self replaceable with two little bolts no wires to solder, takes lithium batteries and will IMO out throw the turbo 2 because of the bigger reflector also they are in stock to buy now.

I wasn't going to address Glenn7's responses concerning Lambda Lights as I didn't want this thread to be dragged too far off the OPs original intent.
After rereading his post I feel his wording may leave readers with a false impression of a fine product.


In no way am I belittling his input but it sounds like he had an earlier version of the light and while his experiences are valid with that light they don't seem to be for the present products.


The VPT2 by Lambda Lights is based on a Maglite. I does make use of a head off a Chinese light and a reflector from DX. He covers this information is his build discussions on Flashlight News forum so it is no secret.


I'm headed to a Car show this weekend and there will be custom cars there based on Fords and Chevys. They don't refer to them as Hybrids.
I believe it is the quality of the work that determines if it is a custom light (or car). Readers can research Lambda Lights and determine for themselves if his work rates being called custom.


No battery rattle in my VPT2 as it is sleeved to use 4C cells and they don't rattle in the least.


Not sure what was up with your switch, none of my 6 have the problem you experienced. I know he will take care of his products but being in Australia I imagine the shipping isn't cheap.


Lambda now offers the option of a VLT2 for those needing water resistance. It will have the same resistance as a standard Maglite.


Enough on Lambda, now for Nimh batteries. Not sure what you used for batteries but even the worst ones I've tested C and D cells don't come close to 5% loss per day. That would mean they were totally dead in 20 days!!! The old Energizer 2500mah AAs might have been that bad.


I just tested 8 D cells that sat on a shelf for 90 days after a full charge (discharged at 3amp rate).
Average mah when fully charged – 9700mah
Average mah after 90 days – 8600mah


These were not LSD batteries. They were Tenergy Premium D cells.
If you are going to let your lights set more than 90 days without charging get LSD cells otherwise enjoy the higher capacity of regular Nimh cells.


Again, I'm not questioning Glenn7's experience as there were and probably still are low quality nimh cells on the market. Just as there are questionable quality Lithium cells on the market.
It is important that readers understand his remarks are not all encompassing.
 

The_Driver

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The LED has a dome over it to disperse the light...removing the dome (On the SR90 at least) means prying the dome off...it takes ~ 10 minutes including taking the head off to reach the LED. Its just held by a soft gel, not a hard glue, etc...and it comes right up. That's for the ST90 in the SR90.

On other LEDS - it can be harder to do, and some people reported damage, and a loss in lumens.

The advantage is that the light is less dispersed, and throw is increased. The disadvantage is that some of the floodiness is reduced...as you are trading some flood for some throw...essentially reproportioning the beam profile.

As far as I know the lens actually foces the light of the led, so more light gies forward. If you take of the lens then more light goes to the sides, which is good when using a reflector, because this collimated the light going to the sides. Intrestingly the de-doming also increaes the lux when using an aspheric (at least in the varapowers case).

Compared to the de-domed SR90 the Varapower does the same lux with a smaller reflector and more lumens. The special things about this light are the heatsinking (led soldered directly onto massive copper heatsink) and the Varacontrol (1 to 2000 lumens with ~30 levels).
 

Glenn7

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I wasn't going to address Glenn7's responses concerning Lambda Lights as I didn't want this thread to be dragged too far off the OPs original intent.
After rereading his post I feel his wording may leave readers with a false impression of a fine product.


In no way am I belittling his input but it sounds like he had an earlier version of the light and while his experiences are valid with that light they don't seem to be for the present products.


The VPT2 by Lambda Lights is based on a Maglite. I does make use of a head off a Chinese light and a reflector from DX. He covers this information is his build discussions on Flashlight News forum so it is no secret.


I'm headed to a Car show this weekend and there will be custom cars there based on Fords and Chevys. They don't refer to them as Hybrids.
I believe it is the quality of the work that determines if it is a custom light (or car). Readers can research Lambda Lights and determine for themselves if his work rates being called custom.


No battery rattle in my VPT2 as it is sleeved to use 4C cells and they don't rattle in the least.


Not sure what was up with your switch, none of my 6 have the problem you experienced. I know he will take care of his products but being in Australia I imagine the shipping isn't cheap.


Lambda now offers the option of a VLT2 for those needing water resistance. It will have the same resistance as a standard Maglite.


Enough on Lambda, now for Nimh batteries. Not sure what you used for batteries but even the worst ones I've tested C and D cells don't come close to 5% loss per day. That would mean they were totally dead in 20 days!!! The old Energizer 2500mah AAs might have been that bad.


I just tested 8 D cells that sat on a shelf for 90 days after a full charge (discharged at 3amp rate).
Average mah when fully charged – 9700mah
Average mah after 90 days – 8600mah


These were not LSD batteries. They were Tenergy Premium D cells.
If you are going to let your lights set more than 90 days without charging get LSD cells otherwise enjoy the higher capacity of regular Nimh cells.


Again, I'm not questioning Glenn7's experience as there were and probably still are low quality nimh cells on the market. Just as there are questionable quality Lithium cells on the market.
It is important that readers understand his remarks are not all encompassing.
Maybe we need to define what we call a custom light and a moded light - I mean no disrespect to lambda or 357, lambda is a clever man and I respect what he does, hey I bought his lights before most here and I was one of the ones that blew my horn here on cpf helping getting people to know about them.
Everyone on cpf that changes a light from its original (including milkyspit) call it modding or modding service. I don't know of anyone on cpf that call their lights custom that don't make them from scratch, sorry just pointing this out (maybe its semantics).
Yes I did have a merry go around experience a while back with Elektrolumens, but just as you say lambda's lights have improved from when I first bought one so has Waynes service.

SORRY opp we went off on a tangent on two differant lights that you didn't even ask about - if anybody wants and I get time I might try to get some pix of the throw of the ST90 and battery pack and such?
 

RCLumens

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No worries - part of this is also broadening the horizons... I got some great info on the SR90 and TK70, PLUS a few other 'Big Gun' lights as well. That's what makes this forum so great...!

Maybe we need to define what we call a custom light and a moded light - I mean no disrespect to lambda or 357, lambda is a clever man and I respect what he does, hey I bought his lights before most here and I was one of the ones that blew my horn here on cpf helping getting people to know about them.
Everyone on cpf that changes a light from its original (including milkyspit) call it modding or modding service. I don't know of anyone on cpf that call their lights custom that don't make them from scratch, sorry just pointing this out (maybe its semantics).
Yes I did have a merry go around experience a while back with Elektrolumens, but just as you say lambda's lights have improved from when I first bought one so has Waynes service.

SORRY opp we went off on a tangent on two differant lights that you didn't even ask about - if anybody wants and I get time I might try to get some pix of the throw of the ST90 and battery pack and such?
 

TEEJ

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As far as I know the lens actually foces the light of the led, so more light gies forward. If you take of the lens then more light goes to the sides, which is good when using a reflector, because this collimated the light going to the sides. Intrestingly the de-doming also increaes the lux when using an aspheric (at least in the varapowers case).

Compared to the de-domed SR90 the Varapower does the same lux with a smaller reflector and more lumens. The special things about this light are the heatsinking (led soldered directly onto massive copper heatsink) and the Varacontrol (1 to 2000 lumens with ~30 levels).

My VaraPower Turbo V2 is also de-domed.

:D

I did not dedome the TK70 though, as that light currently fills a role for its particular combination of flood and throw...so I don't WANT it to be different right now...plus, I have no experience with dedomed multi-emitter scenarios. :eek:

I WOULD like to do it just as an experiment...but, It might end up with me needing to buy yet another light.... (Like THAT ever happens...) :naughty:


The SR90's role was throw with a large hot spot, and dedoming it emphasized that performance for that role.

I JUST got the VPTV2 though, so I have not had a chance to really test it out. I lost the Lambda Light 3D I used to like, out on a job site...and wanted to replace it.

:D
 

The_Driver

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My VaraPower Turbo V2 is also de-domed.

:D

I did not dedome the TK70 though, as that light currently fills a role for its particular combination of flood and throw...so I don't WANT it to be different right now...plus, I have no experience with dedomed multi-emitter scenarios. :eek:

I WOULD like to do it just as an experiment...but, It might end up with me needing to buy yet another light.... (Like THAT ever happens...) :naughty:
:D

O wouldn't even try to do this to the tk70 as de-doming XM-Ls seems to be a hit and miss affair (see here):

My VPT2 was finished yesterday and I payed for it this morning. Should get in the next two weeks.
 

Fresh Light

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I've got an Olight SR90 and there is no question about it being a quality light. The charging port is very a very nice feature. But the light is huge and not something that I find myself using a whole lot. I've posted these pics here and at the other forum but they are useful. I'll put them at the end.
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I've never owned a fenix light, so I can't say much firsthand about them. I've owned a Elektrolumens 3mce drop in that went dim and barely lit up sent it back and the problem returned so Wayne let me apply the cost toward a Firesword. That light has been very durable and impressive. The FS, like the the Search and Rescue light, uses 4 18650s, however, in series not parallel like the SR by EL. But all that said the EL lights have been lacking when it has come to testing in the IS for lumen output, and it's always been a detractor for me when a manufacturer puts up theoretical outputs.

In recent I've moved to purchasing mostly Lambda lights. I've bought a 2C xml with a 18650 adapter, a 2D xml , a 3cVP xml, another 3c xml, a VP2k 5700, a VP2K 6500 domed, a VP2K 6500 DeDomed, a VP-3xml Hydra with TIR optics, a VP-3xml Hydra with reflectors , and for now 1 VPT. I've only sold 2 of the VP2k the rest i'm keeping. I have never seen any lighting manufacture address the issue of getting the heat away from the LED as well as the Lambda Lights do with direct bonding and then biggest Cu heatsinks i've ever seen, I know he's said in the turbos it's between 10-12 oz of Copper, that's a beer can's weight in Cu! The value of the copper alone makes these lights worth holding onto just to be upgraded later. But my suggestion is save up get a VPT in whatever color temps you like, I've personally found that the warmer colors look brighter to me, and be done with your search. In my experience the Tenergy Centuras have been the Enloops of bigger cells. The Tenergy Premiums are about half the cost, are rated for higher current, but do lose their charge quicker as they sit.
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anthony lumens

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bpollard said:
Are these shots of the sr90 with the led dedomed? It throws much further than the tk70 in your shots

Hey love the screenshots, I own both lights also! Someone was saying there is a way to get a few more lumens or throw out if the sr90?? Not sure if it's a lense or what.. Just curious if you know anything ?
 

TEEJ

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Hey love the screenshots, I own both lights also! Someone was saying there is a way to get a few more lumens or throw out if the sr90?? Not sure if it's a lense or what.. Just curious if you know anything ?

More LUX, just dedome the LED, and it throws like a MoFo.

:D
 

ledmitter_nli

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Been researching the FourSevens RRT3 XML and it looks like the XT11's big daddy.

I'm so there. Hope this will be legal here in NYC :D:D:D:D
 

Flight_Deck

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I have owned both for some time now, but just sold my TK70 to purchase an Olight X6, and am now selling my SR90 in the Market Place (for a screamer of a deal), to pay for the rest of the X6.

Damn this addiction!
 
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ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS

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I don't have a Olight SR90, but I do have a Fenix TK70. And I do believe the SR90 will out throw the TK70. but that is only becasue it's a single led light with about the same head diameter as the TK70. The lumens is probably without question higher on the TK70. I can tell you this much that the TK70 will smoke any of my best XM-L throwers at 350yds. I'll show you what I mean.

Fenix TK70 350yds 0.8 sec shutter f/4.5 ISO 400

DSCF3563Small.jpg


My best single XM-L thrower Crelant 7G5 same distance and manual settings

DSCF3571Small.jpg


And my second best single XM-L thrower Olight M3X same distance and settings

DSCF3568Small.jpg
 

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS

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And I'll add that some of you on here are showing beamshots that are over doing it. Use manual settings on your camera if you have it and set your shutter speed to around 1 sec. It makes one heck of a difference what your shutter speed is.

I'll give you an example.

Fenix TK70 220yds 0.8 sec shutter f/4.5 ISO 400

DSCF3565Small.jpg


Now same light and shot with a 1 sec shutter and all the other settings the same. This is just 0.2 sec slower but look at how much difference it makes.

DSCF3580Small.jpg


Now if I really want to make it brighter I can do this.

Same light in auto exposure with a 2.8 sec shutter f/4 ISO 200. You should get my drift about the shutter speed by viewing this one in auto with the slower shutter.

DSCF3327Small.jpg
 
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rufus001

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And I'll add that some of you on here are showing beamshots that are over doing it. Use manual settings on your camera if you have it and set your shutter speed to no more than 1 sec. It makes one heck of a difference what your shutter speed is.
Are there certain settings that always match what your eye sees? Or does it vary due to the conditions?
 

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS

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Are there certain settings that always match what your eye sees? Or does it vary due to the conditions?

You just got to experiment with the manual settings. But manual settings is the only way for the camera to truly objectively compare beamshots outdoors. You have to use a set standard so you and others here can tell what really is going on.
 

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS

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Look at how much brighter I can make my TK70 appear here by going to auto exposure with 2.5 sec shutter, f/4, ISO 200 at 350yds. Compare this shot with that one above.

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TEEJ

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Yeah, at less than 400 yards, the TK70 works better than the SR90, as it has almost double the lumens, and a similar reflector size.

After ~ 400 yards or so, the SR90's more focused single emitter, vs the TK70's 3 XML set-up, throws further, and ultimately puts more light down range after ~400 yards.

I did some shots comparing the dedeomed SR90 vs the Dedomed Lambdalight VPT 2....mostly because I found out I needed to focus the VPT's head to get it to throw properly. Once I focused it, the VPT really transformed as far as throw.

These shots were from last night, as it stopped raining long enough to DO some. There WAS a lot of crap/mist in the air though, but, the weather's been SO uncooperative lately, I decide to strike while the iron wasn't AS wet.

I threw in some shots from two small aspherics for comparison, the DEFT edc LR+ (Pocket sized), and the larger Deerelight Aspheric. They too could reach the target tree, and you can see the LED shape preserved on the leaves even at that range. The DEFT is only ~ 80 lumens, IIRC the Deerelight is ~ 300 lumens.


:D

(The round tree and the second Transmission Tower are 405 meters away in these shots, the telephone poles are 87 meters apart...for scale. I adjusted the exposure to make the area lit look like it did by eye that night)


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Dark - Control



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Deerelight Aspheric


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OMG DEFT edc LR+



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SR90



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VPT


As you can see, the amount of light on that tree, and on the way out to the tree, is pretty nice for both the dedomed SR90 and dedomed VPT. To my eye, now that the VPT is focused to throw, I think the VPT has an edge, at least at this range...in that there's a larger area covered by the light, and its still quite bright at that range.

As the VPT is STILL dimmer on the tree than the SR90 though, I can tell that ultimate range should still be better for the SR90 than for the VPT.


The TK70 (Didn't have it in the truck that night for a comparo shot)...but that same shot other nights was always dimmer on the tree than the SR90 was, albeit the area out on the way to tree was always fully illuminated. This is because that's about the range where the TK70 is starting to run out of lumen juice.

This means the TK70 and the VPT2 are pretty similar in application, in that both produce a great wall of light at fairly long throw distances. It also means that the SR90 can take up where those two leave off on LONGER ranges.



:D
 
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