Blew vehicle fuse, still not working

[orbital]

+

If something is 120 Watts & you have less voltage, everything is trying hard to get the needed amps for normal running watt output.
Things gets stressed & pull whatever they can, get hot,, just not ideal.

Keeping the car running, still is your best route (you have an indirect generator running of sorts)


bykfixer had a great point on the marginal battery,
batteries can show good voltage, but cannot produce working amps to get things done,, I'v learned the hard way on that.

________

Three things in cars that could save your bacon

3S Lipo battery w/ battery clamps, to jump your vehicle/or someone else :thumbsup:
Can of fix-a-flat
$100 in $20s'

 

[bykfixer]

#4……a flashlight with lithium battery(s).

Hopefully it was a simple swap out of accessory ports. I had a Ranger that the port had power but just simply stopped working. It was dirty. A good cleaning got it working again, albiet spotty. It worked one minute but not the next. I swapped it out for a generic from an auto parts store and all was right with the world again. So keep in mind, sometimes they just simply no longer make proper contact.

In one work truck a while back I used a high drain warning light system on the roof and that thing murdered a few 12 volt ports. No fuse ever blew. So yeah, sometimes they just quit.

 

[orbital]

+

Side story::

I have a great friend that's a mechanic, has the certifications for Honda powersports anything & Mercury Marine.
He is so adamant on having clean battery terminals, it's almost an obsession.

If you have slightly corroded terminals using a Mercury engine & try to start it, it can cause a huge/expensive pain-in-the-*** repair.

Keep your battery connections clean on everything you own.

 

[turbodog]

+

If something is 120 Watts & you have less voltage, everything is trying hard to get the needed amps for normal running watt output.
...

If you're talking about the battery's ability to provide the needed power... then aren't we forgetting the ability to provide hundred(s) of amps to start the engine? If it will crank the car... compressor should not be a problem.

 

[orbital]

+

Marks socket wasn't corroded, we know that.

The car was off, voltage is only going down, the socket cooked itself.
Amps make stuff hot, not voltage.

The socket failed because it was trying to keep up w/ watts demanded by the compressor.

 

[raggie33]

i hate electric problems in cars and motorcycles i just get mad and rewire the circuit

 

[markr6]

+

Marks socket wasn't corroded, we know that.

The car was off, voltage is only going down, the socket cooked itself.
Amps make stuff hot, not voltage.

The socket failed because it was trying to keep up w/ watts demanded by the compressor.

That seemed to be the case. The new socket and removal tool arrived. I looked into the hole at the wiring but could only see about 3" back. Looked ok. Plugged in the new socket and it works now! Thanks everyone.

I'll still use this port cautiously and keep the compressor running for shorter periods of time, with the engine running...which I hate to do.

 

[orbital]

That seemed to be the case. The new socket and removal tool arrived. I looked into the hole at the wiring but could only see about 3" back. Looked ok. Plugged in the new socket and it works now! Thanks everyone.

I'll still use this port cautiously and keep the compressor running for shorter periods of time, with the engine running...which I hate to do.

+

:thumbsup:

______

Just a thought,
Do you think a 15A fuse would ensure the socket doesn't fry again? (seems a bit a weak link)
..whole lot easier/cheaper plugging in a fuse.

 

[louie]

So, do these sockets have a fuse or fuse-like link built in? Was there any visible evidence of damage? An ohmeter check? Teardown analysis?

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

______

Just a thought ......

Have that leak repaired.

 

[markr6]

So, do these sockets have a fuse or fuse-like link built in? Was there any visible evidence of damage? An ohmeter check? Teardown analysis?

That's the strange thing. Not much to it, no visible damage. I still have it so I'll take a closer look.

 

[Hooked on Fenix]

Are those outlets hardwired all the way back to the power source? Are there connections made by wirenuts or wagos (push in connectors for each wire)? Wagos tend to burn out and open up the circuit when you use any type of motor. If you find wagos, try switching them out for wirenuts. Otherwise, connect the positive and negative on one end of the circuit with a wirenut, and use a multimeter set on continuity and touch the probes to the positive and negative wires at the other end of the circuit. (You should not be connected to the battery while doing this.) You'll be able to rule out if your wire is bad or not or at least narrow down where the problem is.

 

[Lou Minescence]

I checked about the sockets themselves being fused and they are not. Fuse # 91 is a 20amp for rear outlet with 2 positions. Must be 2 outlets in rear of Jeep ?
The console outlet uses fuse #104 and is a 20amp as well.
I guess you must have cooked the rear socket and replacing it fixed it. It did not have a built in fuse

 

[markr6]

I checked about the sockets themselves being fused and they are not. Fuse # 91 is a 20amp for rear outlet with 2 positions. Must be 2 outlets in rear of Jeep ?
The console outlet uses fuse #104 and is a 20amp as well.
I guess you must have cooked the rear socket and replacing it fixed it. It did not have a built in fuse

Yeah it's working now.

To be clear on the outlets/fuses:

1. Front console 90/91 (shares same fuse as rear cargo I toasted, that's how I realized this when trying to charge my phone)
2. Mid console (104 separate fuse so this one was fine. It's inside the arm rest storage area and runs even when engine/accessory is off)
3. Cargo area 90/91 (this one caused the issue)

I had that in position 90 so the car didn't need to be on to provide power. Nice feature, but possibly what got me into trouble.