Car inverter fixable?

[Zero_Enigma]

Ok guess I need some help here. Not sure I posted in the right forum but if not and if yes but someone knows of another forum for more help please let me know!

I own this inverter http://images.fixya.com/N/NexxTech/177x150/5a6930346d6c544a796a7a494f42494b553141.jpg while not that color or brand I got mine from Canadian Tire under the name MotorMaster Elimator.

I got the 175W one years ago. Recently with it being more sunny and I wanting to try using the solar panel (this solar panel http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0111856P/questions.htm ) and 12v car battery with this inverter.

My problem is this, a few weeks ago I took out a 12v car battery and used some of the solar panel accessories that came with it to clamp the red-to-red and black-to-black cables to the 12v battery. I then connected a FEMALE 12v DC SOCKET to the cable that was connected to the 12v battery.

I then took the 175W inverter out of the car (I think the switch was on) and plugged it into the female DC socket. Immediately a spark happened inside the 175W invertor for about 1 second and I think I saw the orange spark.

My question to the experts is, is this inverter fixable? I did some checking online and I think it said that there is some fuse in there but I could be wrong. I was going to try for a warranty return but 1. can't find reciept 2. 2yrs is up.

I do have a soldering iron here but need expert advice on this. To the best of my knowledge I do not think I crossed any of the wires because the solar panel connections make that physically impossible as one side is narrow and the other plug is square. I love this inverter but really pissed off that it died this way.

I always thought that you could DC to DC plug in to a car battery like that as I wanted to build a small solar setup with an inverter. Now I'm set back an inverter unless someone in Toronto has a old/spare laying around which I would really appreciate.

 

[snakebite]

toss into aluminum scrap pile.or find some creative use for the heatsink.most of those cheap inverters are junk.

 

[JeeperAz]

I blew a fuse in one of mine and replaced it successfully... easy fix.

 

[Zero_Enigma]

Jeeper,

I need help with that specific looking model (175W). How does one change the fuse in them? What fuse does it normally use?

I do hope it was just afuse blown as I really would love to get it work ing again. I hook up some sensitive electronics laptop/cellphone/pda to it so I am concerned now that the unit has failed/damaged if it will work safely again.

 

[mexusbg]

Check for a cap (there should be one on the outside), if not disassemble the unit and check if the fuse is on the PCB. Change the FUSE with same Volt/Ampere characteristics.

Check for visible damage to the PCB before plugging it back to the 12V socket!!

Post some pics of the PCB.

 

[sparkysko]

You have nothing to lose by opening it up.. I blew up some expensive aquarium lighting, opened it up, and found out that it had a fuse trace on the PCB itself! Added a bit of wire, and good as new....

I bet there will be some visible damage, or a fuse blown, so just try ripping everything apart. Sometimes these cheap chinese things use oddball size fuses that cost $10 online, so I just end up using tinfoil wrapped around the old one, and hope I don't muck it up again...


Order of likelyhood on what failed is fuse or burned trace, exploded capacitor or fried transistor. Everytime I've accidentally reversed polarity, I've blown the fuse at the tip of the cigarette adapter on the device. Unscrew the tip to get to the fuse... With a multimeter, you can troubleshoot it down to the exact part that's bad if you just test each component individually...

If it's smoked on the board, rub it with some steel wool and alcohol, or a sponge and alcohol... The evaporated metals cause the board to act weird until you clean it off...

 

[Zero_Enigma]

I opened it up about 2 weeks ago. It needed a ATO 20A fuse. Went to the local Can.Tire and got a pack of 5 20A blade fuses for ~$3.99

It's working again so I'm happy but I will crack it open again and take pics just because I know someone else may find this thread later and need help with this model and I'd rather leave some something to help someone else.

I'm not taking the side screws off again. :scowl: That took a while needle nose pliers to get the tighting bracket metal inside the unit which I think is used to press the chips or circuit parts to the housing to make it one lump heatsink.