Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

[llmercll]

I followed the steps in the first post, but my light is still gunky!! It's a solarforce L2r

I cleaned it very well, so that it was shiny metal, then applied a little bit of silicone grease and started to work it in. The more I worked it in, the "grainier" it felt. When I took the cap off, it was a dark sludge again! When I tested it without the grease, it screwed on very nicely. The only thing I can think is there is some seriously stubborn caked on dirt somewhere on the tailcap (which is harder to clean) that I missed.

Any ideas whats going on?

thanks!

 

[ragweed]

I would do that about 6-7 times & clean it off good each time between applications. I prefer Nyogel 760 as the silicone was not too good. It was stiff IMO.

 

[tam17]

The more I worked it in, the "grainier" it felt. When I took the cap off, it was a dark sludge again! When I tested it without the grease, it screwed on very nicely. The only thing I can think is there is some seriously stubborn caked on dirt somewhere on the tailcap (which is harder to clean) that I missed.

Any ideas whats going on?

thanks!

"Dark sludge" is not really a dirt but zillions of tiny metal particles produced by grinding metal against metal and suspended in the grease, so it's time to revise your choice of lubricant.

Silicone grease was never the best choice for metal-to-metal lubrication. However, for most (nitrile) o-rings it will do just fine.

Cheers,

Tam

 

[JudasD]

I realize that the OP says never to use WD-40. I have a question about getting gunk out of the threads. First I use alcohol with a toothbrush in the threads to work dirt and gunk out. Does it make sense to then then finish cleaning it with WD-40 to spray the gunk out? Then after it dries use a proper lube? If WD-40 is a big no-no how about something like electro-wash? or some of the other types of cleaners that are meant to clean circuit boards or electronics? Im only asking this because even after using the toothbrush and alcohol there can still be crud left in the threads.

Thanks,
JD

 

[llmercll]

Ok, I just ordered some superlube

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&psc=1

I'll try that out and see how it does

 

[tam17]

I realize that the OP says never to use WD-40. I have a question about getting gunk out of the threads. First I use alcohol with a toothbrush in the threads to work dirt and gunk out. Does it make sense to then then finish cleaning it with WD-40 to spray the gunk out? Then after it dries use a proper lube? If WD-40 is a big no-no how about something like electro-wash? or some of the other types of cleaners that are meant to clean circuit boards or electronics? Im only asking this because even after using the toothbrush and alcohol there can still be crud left in the threads.

Thanks,
JD

WD-40 isn't a lubricant in a strict sense of word, it's rather a water displacer (hence the "WD"). It destroys most of rubbers and plastics, working as a slow acting poison, so it's no good for threads as well as o-rings.

If you absolutely must use WD-40 for cleaning, be sure to remove every trace of it before you proceed to the next step.

Cheers,

Tam

 

[JudasD]

WD-40 isn't a lubricant in a strict sense of word, it's rather a water displacer (hence the "WD"). It destroys most of rubbers and plastics, working as a slow acting poison, so it's no good for threads as well as o-rings.

If you absolutely must use WD-40 for cleaning, be sure to remove every trace of it before you proceed to the next step.

Cheers,

Tam

I see. I thought the concern was if you used WD40 as the only lubricant. I didnt realize that WD40 slowly destroys rubbers and plastics. With this data i will remove WD40 from my list. I would like to have some kind of spray cleaner that i can use to flush out the threads once i brush them out. Any thoughts on what could be used?

Thanks,
JD

 

[N162E]

I followed the steps in the first post, but my light is still gunky!! It's a solarforce L2r

I cleaned it very well, so that it was shiny metal, then applied a little bit of silicone grease and started to work it in. The more I worked it in, the "grainier" it felt. When I took the cap off, it was a dark sludge again! When I tested it without the grease, it screwed on very nicely. The only thing I can think is there is some seriously stubborn caked on dirt somewhere on the tailcap (which is harder to clean) that I missed.

Any ideas whats going on?

thanks!

Sounds like your lube may have been having a reaction with your O ring.

Ok, I just ordered some superlube

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&psc=1

I'll try that out and see how it does

If your O ring is damaged it may need to be replaced. Superlube should solve your problems. Several of the lubes, especially Nyogel are way overated. BTY Superlube is now available at Harbor Freight.

 

[shelm]

Question, how do you guys like Superlube on Quark threads (unanodized bare aluminum threads)?

it is super great on the Quark o-rings but i am not so sure about the aluminum threads. Is there any lube which protects the Quark aluminum from abrasion?

bare aluminum on bare aluminum --- which is the best lube for this coupling?

 

[llmercll]

One thing I noticed about my silicone grease is that it was very thick and sticky. The o-rings don't appear damaged thankfully.

 

[Justintoxicated]

I just replaced the lube on all my lights with froglube. It's non toxic, safe for O-rings and smells like wintergreen. Makes the threads like butter.

Unlike other lubes it thickens when cold and not in use so it will not run and is not messy, it stays inplace, and even if you get some on your cloths or hands, well, its non toxic.

I have tried other lubes and had previously been using nano-lube, but this is my new favorite.

I was applying the paste rather than the liquid. One thing I did notice is that if the light is cold, twistes will actually be slightly harder to turn at first as the lube has solidified, or maybe it's because the Oring has been sitting in place? However once you start to turn it, it really feels like butter. I actually like this effect because it adds just enough resistance to help the light not twist on it's own. It's a CLP so it should reduce oxidization, rust etc. I didn't bother to apply with heat on my lights but as per direction if you apply with heat it will help it to soak into the metal pores..

When I would clean the nano lube off I could always see metal wear (dark oil), but this has been reduced since I started using froglube. The applicator for nanolube is really cool though.

 

[shelm]

been using nano-lube, but this is my new favorite.

you got any Quarks? (if yes, please tell us your story with nano-lube and frog lube, thanks!)

 

[Justintoxicated]

I have applied to to my quark mini, preon 2, and so far it works great, never had problems with either lube but I prefer the frog lube for this application, I always worry about getting nano lube on my hands. I also have a nitecore cr2 now and it really smoothed out that light as well once I removed all the lube it came with. The warmer the light gets the smoother the threads seem to get.

This stuff is really made for firearms.

FROGLUBE CLP Lubricant Kit - 4oz Paste and 4oz Liquid

Although I got mine from brownells cause they give you a little more for the money.

It will sorta clean the threads as they are worked, so after your first application it may be good to wipe it off and re-apply after some time as all the grime etc in the threads will work out. Whether this is snakeoil or not in the gun world is jet to be determined. Some say it has no anti wear properties yet it passed the 4 ball test with flying colors. I have also been using it on my Reloading shell plates to reduce rust, because most other products will greatly attract spilled powder etc. or just don't stay applied to help reduce rust.

Again, I have not had any problems with nano lube on any of my lights, other than if I take them apart it can easily accidentally wipe it off onto clothing or hands. The frog lube is thicker and more like grease than oil, at least until it warms up then it attains a more liquid state.

For titanium lights I'm not sure yet, Nono oil seemed to help but it was all I really tried, I have since lost my Titanium lights. All I have that is titanium is the preon tuxedo light. which is titanium on aluminum. I do notice that ti lights tend to have coarser threads, I would not hesitate to try froglube to help but I can't comment on those other than my preon which isn't the best candidate.

 

[shelm]

thanks. i was thinking of the problem Quarks bare aluminum threads (Quark tactical). the Q mini has anodized threads. On anodized threads anything lube works well, even mustard or tooth paste. no need for nano-oil. (i dont know about preon threads. i think they are anodized too)

what happens when nano-oil gets on hands or clothing? stinks?

 

[llmercll]

My solarforces have bare aluminum tailcap threads. I'll let you know how the superlube works once I get it =)

 

[shelm]

My solarforces have bare aluminum tailcap threads. I'll let you know how the superlube works once I get it =)

i have been using Superlube on Quarks Tactical bare-aluminum-on-bare-aluminum threads.
no friction, but much abrasion.
verdict: better than silicone grease but still not recommendable on Quark threads.

 

[TEEJ]

I was went through a few lubes on the tail cap of my 4sevens S12, it was always hard to turn...untill I just put in a thinner O ring...prob solved.

 

[HotWire]

I've found through much experimentation that Nano-Oil is my preference. They also make a Nano-Grease which I intend to try. Nano-Oil makes the SureFire tailcaps spin with just my thumb. I'm thinking that it's so thin that it might not be good if you are swimming with your lights, but I don't know that. I also use Finish Line Extreme Fluoro on some lights.

 

[ClassicGOD]

This is probably a stupid question but has anyone tried mixing Nano-Oil with Krytox?

 

[Threeme2189]

Hello everybody, I'm new here and I have a question about lubing the threads on my 1st decent(ish) flashlight.
I have bought an Akoray k-106 from dealextreme and it has a GITD o-ring below the threads.
Now from what I understand it's made from silicone. So is it ok to lube the threads and o-ring with an oil based lubricant?

Thanks,
Threeme2189