-Dive Light Project-

[lucca brassi]

I have thought cooling LED in that way.....and I think it is something real different and effective

 

[sonodelirii]

I have thought cooling LED in that way.....and I think it is something real different and effective

Yeah that looks like it would work very well. The only thing is as long as your led is on a piece of metal that is in contact with water it will do the job. Most metals conduct heat very well, water is substantially colder (delta T is large) and the ocean has infinite heat capacity. A bad design and a good design will both work equally well. I put the cooling veins on mine because they work and are very easy to machine. But they aren't really necessary they just look cool

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picture time, no reason, just because

 

[jspeybro]

Hi, here's another idea

the mounting of the lamp to the goodman handle seems solid, but I see room for improvement on the handle itself.

Have a look at the design of the goodman handle of Big Blue:
http://www.bigblue.com.hk/tl-1x30w-led.html
Not sure if it can be seen very well in the pics, but the plate on which the lamp is mounted, can only move up and down, not twist around the bolts because there is some metal in front and behind the part that you hold in your hand. The slot is on that part and not in the part that is connected to the light head.

You can then also use the upper part of the slot to attach some bungee cord and/or a boltsnap for easy attachment to your BCD.

 

[sonodelirii]

Hi, here's another idea

the mounting of the lamp to the goodman handle seems solid, but I see room for improvement on the handle itself.

Have a look at the design of the goodman handle of Big Blue:
http://www.bigblue.com.hk/tl-1x30w-led.html
Not sure if it can be seen very well in the pics, but the plate on which the lamp is mounted, can only move up and down, not twist around the bolts because there is some metal in front and behind the part that you hold in your hand. The slot is on that part and not in the part that is connected to the light head.

You can then also use the upper part of the slot to attach some bungee cord and/or a boltsnap for easy attachment to your BCD.

Well there is a groove that prevents the handle from rotating around the screws, its on the bottom part of the handle if you look closely. But if you want a slot to clip things too or clip the light to the bcd through there you go. I was going to remove some material from there anyway to make it lighter. May not matter in the water much but gear is a pain to haul, grams add up fast... also holes/slots look cool for some silly reason

 

[lucca brassi]

The only thing is as long as your led is on a piece of metal that is in contact with water it will do the job.

True ... but difference is in heat transfer cross-section of profile and length which brings us to volume and accumulation of heat .. and leds loves to work at very low temperatures .


( If don't work in these waters it is little difficult to explain and understand problem) But if you have ProE you can simulate heat transfer .
We use at our company I think Moldflow for tool construction of moulding plastics which is very similar at this problem (heatsource / sinks/ actual temperature)

 

[jspeybro]

oh, I hadn't seen the little edge. Should work fine I guess.

:thumbsup: right on, machine vision is cool. Its amazing what you can acomplish when you give a computer eyes and a nice algorithm. What exactly do you do?

I do research for sorting machinery that uses laser, LED and camera technology for example to get the mice out of your frozen vegetable mixes

 

[wquiles]

Very cool design

Will

 

[sonodelirii]

True ... but difference is in heat transfer cross-section of profile and length which brings us to volume and accumulation of heat .. and leds loves to work at very low temperatures .


( If don't work in these waters it is little difficult to explain and understand problem) But if you have ProE you can simulate heat transfer .
We use at our company I think Moldflow for tool construction of moulding plastics which is very similar at this problem (heatsource / sinks/ actual temperature)

I have pro-e but I like ansys better for cfd analysis. I can run a sim later but I am pretty sure the temperature difference will be minimal and the led performance won't be effected a relevant amount. But I do understand what you mean.

oh, I hadn't seen the little edge. Should work fine I guess.


I do research for sorting machinery that uses laser, LED and camera technology for example to get the mice out of your frozen vegetable mixes

good, i hate mice in my stir fry

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Question2(wire),

How do you guys (divers) feel about spiral self retracting wire (like phone cords used to be) between the head and battery canister vs straight wire?

I noticed some people use those in conjunction with a buckle clip to secure things to bcd like lights and cameras. Buckle cliped when item not in use keeping item close, buckle uncliped when item in use proving a longer leash that always has a little tension on it so it doesn't tangle. I don't want to use the buckle, just using it as an example of a wire like that being use by divers already.

Lanyard wire like this, item 9:
www.scubadiving.com/gear/2008/04/10-accessories-every-diver-needs

 

[BB1]

Design is awesome, makes me want to break out my Alphacam cad/cam software again!

IMHO spiral cable is a definite no no!

A light like this would definitely be of interest to many who'd dive in confined spaces like wrecks and caves etc. Cave line, old cables in wrecks etc would slide off a single smooth cable but you having a chance of catching those items in the curly telephone cord like stuff is just one of many reasons why not do change the standard cable.

Really look forward to seeing this progress

 

[lucca brassi]

+1

IMHO spiral cable is a definite NO NO NO !

Even telephone cord somtime made such mess ... think about fishing thread

 

[Walterk]

The only thing is as long as your led is on a piece of metal that is in contact with water it will do the job.

Thats definately something I would like to see tested.
Probably would work very good, even with air in windy locations.

Pro-E handles the details pretty well for what you've posted.

 

[sonodelirii]

Design is awesome, makes me want to break out my Alphacam cad/cam software again!

IMHO spiral cable is a definite no no!

A light like this would definitely be of interest to many who'd dive in confined spaces like wrecks and caves etc. Cave line, old cables in wrecks etc would slide off a single smooth cable but you having a chance of catching those items in the curly telephone cord like stuff is just one of many reasons why not do change the standard cable.

Really look forward to seeing this progress

Yeah, I didn't think it was a great idea either. Just saw some divers use it for holding their light but those people are probably the type that stay in 20 feet of water.

Progress is going well. I am going to stop posting pretty pictures although the new once look very cool. Wouldn't care of people here tried my ideas out but I'll be damned if I help companies that are charging $3k for their lights free load.

My light might not turn out to be dirt cheap but the truth of the matter is a low end canister light from any popular dive light company costs them relatively the same to produce as a high end one; but they crank up the price using "brighter" or "better" as an excuse. I am just going to make the best light possible and if people want to have one too I'll sell them one but I won't mark it up astronomically high.

Thats definately something I would like to see tested.
Probably would work very good, even with air in windy locations.

Pro-E handles the details pretty well for what you've posted.

Yeah I'll run a FEA, but I much rather use solidworks FEA package since its integrated and convenient or if I want to use something really awesome there is AnSYS, it awesome at computational thermo/fluid dynamics.

Pro-E needs to die already, can't stand its clunky very user unfriendly interface and moronic logic. Solidworks is infinitely better for small projects and for bigger once things like CATIA mop the floor with Pro-E. And if you are going to run FEA might as well export to a stand alone package that specializes in the area you are interested in.

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Optical array design should be done this week; consulting some phD's I know who work in optics.

Improving the mechanical design on daily basis as I get new ideas.

Electric end of the deal will be last, probably next week or the one after, I need to sleep more often then every other night...

:mecry::tired::sleepy: rinse and repeat

 

[Klem]

Nice tech-drawings.

My two bobs worth... Looking at your design where the bezel screws onto the head, you have the threads and O rings round the wrong way.

The threads of the bezel will chew up the O rings before mating with their counterpart threads on the head. O rings need to go behind the threads, not in front.

Should be a nice torch when you're finished.

 

[sonodelirii]

Nice tech-drawings.

My two bobs worth... Looking at your design where the bezel screws onto the head, you have the threads and O rings round the wrong way.

The threads of the bezel will chew up the O rings before mating with their counterpart threads on the head. O rings need to go behind the threads, not in front.

Should be a nice torch when you're finished.

Pretty sure its the right way. The maroon part slides in to the purple part from the front end.

Thanks, I hope so too.

 

[Klem]

Hmmm..If you say so..., not interested in arguing so as long as you're aware of the situation then all is well.

 

[Klem]

OK disregard my previous comments..., Had another look at the diagram and see what you mean, 'sliding in from the front'. As long as those O rings don't peel off when you push in from the front I can see how that would work.

 

[sonodelirii]

Hmmm..If you say so..., not interested in arguing so as long as you're aware of the situation then all is well.

OK disregard my previous comments..., Had another look at the diagram and see what you mean, 'sliding in from the front'. As long as those O rings don't peel off when you push in from the front I can see how that would work.

Nothing wrong with a good argument between engineers, that's what we do at work at design reviews, sit in a room and throw rocks at each others designs and defend ours; that's how you spot problems and figure out if they really are problems. I learned a long time to dish it out without reservations and not to take what comes my way personally

You could have just as easily been right and I wrong. You would be surprised how many times engineers make a round hole for a square peg!


The o-rings should stay put (in theory) since I designed the grooves to fit a specific standard o-ring # according to design tables with tested clearances and tolerances. But no test like the real world

*everything aside the optic array should be finished int he next couple of days and then the body will probably go through some major changes to accommodate it. The model is like a piece of clay that keeps being perpetually shaped as things progress, I don't think this is going to the the final version. Don't be surprised if half the parts are gone in the final revision or changed*

Thanks for concern and keep it up! :thumbsup:

 

[clearwaterdiver]

Nice Project!

What finish are you planning to put on the light? Hard Anodizing?

-mike

 

[Pinkank]

Hi,

I'm slowly working on a similar type light, ill post pictures when I get farther along with my model.

1) It looks like you've got your LED mounted on some kind of pedestal? Why?

2) Those cooling fins seem way beyond necessary and will just add to the length of the light head and increase machining cost. I would think that assuming thats milled out of aluminum convection with the water would be sufficient (U = 70F max?)

3) Who makes that strain relief gland? and where did you get the model? Its nicer than the Sealcon Hummel one i've found right now.

4) is your lens just one of those very thin plastic fresnels thats just going to be mounted on a thicker glass plate? And if so, will you mount it wet or dry side?

5) Also, Im using solidworks 2009 and I cant seem to get the knurling appearance working. Any ideas?

Anyway, its looking great. Good Luck.

 

[jspeybro]

the gland is probably one from Agro.
these kind of lenses are about 2mm think and go on the dry side of the glass that is in front of it. the side with the rings in it goes towards the glass.