Is there a 20mm star that can have 2 XM-L's next to each other so that I can switch one or the other ( one 3200K the other 5500K) or both so that I can use a single reflector ? I know they will not be perfectly centered but I think I saw a star like that with 2 leds in it.
Dual XM-L's on a 20mm star possible ?
- Thread starter videoman
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
kuksul08
Enlightened
I've only seen the triples
Have you seen any triple XM-l boards? That are 20mm diameter. AFAIK I am the only person to have made 20mm triple XM-L boards.
I solved it. I sanded down 2 stars with a vertical belt sander just to the point of almost touching the led and positioned them together. The final star looks oval rather than round.The reflector used is a rectangular one and having the 2 leds a bit off-center did not make any difference in the beam.
bshanahan14rulz
Flashlight Enthusiast
Sounds like a worklamp retrofit 
Got tired of having lotsa light and random burns from the halogens?
Got tired of having lotsa light and random burns from the halogens?"Pictures or it didn't happen!" ?
Oh, yes..it did happen. I will post a picture of it as soon as I get home later tonight. Just have to figure out how I can post a photo here. Never done that before.
After I sanded down the 2 leds ( quite easy if you have a tabletop belt sander with 800 grit belt on), I used Arctic Alumna 2 part adhesive to install. I left a tiny space between them, as I wanted to eliminate the possibility of shorting. The adhesive kind of almost reaching the surface within the tiny gap, good as that is an insulator. A regular round optic or reflector may not work well with it but a rectangular reflector with a large enough "throat" works perfectly.
"Sounds like a worklamp retrofit "
Actually it is for a video light that goes on top of the camera with the 3 most important color temperature choices needed. A 3 way on-on-on switch will make it 3200-4000ish-and the all important outdoor 5500K. All without use of cumbersome CC ( color correction) gels or filters. A 3 amp driver feeds it with a dimmer attached.I guess I made the world's only single shadow, single reflector, varicolor, led light. Hmmm.... where do I get a patent for this one ?
I see $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Oh, yes..it did happen. I will post a picture of it as soon as I get home later tonight. Just have to figure out how I can post a photo here. Never done that before.
After I sanded down the 2 leds ( quite easy if you have a tabletop belt sander with 800 grit belt on), I used Arctic Alumna 2 part adhesive to install. I left a tiny space between them, as I wanted to eliminate the possibility of shorting. The adhesive kind of almost reaching the surface within the tiny gap, good as that is an insulator. A regular round optic or reflector may not work well with it but a rectangular reflector with a large enough "throat" works perfectly.
"Sounds like a worklamp retrofit "
Actually it is for a video light that goes on top of the camera with the 3 most important color temperature choices needed. A 3 way on-on-on switch will make it 3200-4000ish-and the all important outdoor 5500K. All without use of cumbersome CC ( color correction) gels or filters. A 3 amp driver feeds it with a dimmer attached.I guess I made the world's only single shadow, single reflector, varicolor, led light. Hmmm.... where do I get a patent for this one ?
I see $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
AnAppleSnail
Flashlight Enthusiast
Type (Open bracket, [)
img]
url of image (Flickr, photobucket, imgur).jpg
[/img]
So you might say
img]
url of image (Flickr, photobucket, imgur).jpg
[/img]
So you might say
Code:
[img]linktoimage.jpg[/img]http://s731.beta.photobucket.com/user/lensgenius/media/IMG_9115.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
It should work...:thinking:
It should work...:thinking:
climberkid
Flashlight Enthusiast
looks great videoman!
Id like to see the beam shots and combined tint option. Is that mounted in a normal flash that mounts to the camera?
Id like to see the beam shots and combined tint option. Is that mounted in a normal flash that mounts to the camera?
The combined tint when both are on blend perfectly. There is no difference across the beam projected that is absolutely even. The beam is actually rectangle instead of round. It is not mounted on a normal flash but on a solid copper bar of 1 inch wide X 6 inches ling and 1/4 inch thick just to get an idea of things before I go ahead and gut out a regular camera light, preferably a discarded or very cheap one. I plan to run it max at 3A and when both tints are on, they each see 1.5 amp ( connected in parallel at this setting.} Finding the 3 position switch was the hard part. The copper bar gets very hot at about the 2 minute mark at full brightness. It definitely needs fins.
Let me see if I've got this right... When they're turned on independently, they run at 3A, but when they're both lit, they get 1.5A each? That's probably a good idea to keep from having to adjust the camera quite so much if you switch between the 3 tints a lot, but how do you keep them separated current-wise? If you have them wired together, wouldn't all three positions of the switch light both of them up in every position? I just can't see it in my head right.
Nice job, nonetheless. :twothumbs
...And for the record, I had no doubt you made it happen, I just wanted to see it.
Nice job, nonetheless. :twothumbs
...And for the record, I had no doubt you made it happen, I just wanted to see it.
bshanahan14rulz
Flashlight Enthusiast
The switch is a mini toggle one that has 3 positions: top position, center position and bottom position. It is rated at 5A@120 volts so I'm good to go with a generous 2A overhead. The switch is a on-on-on type such as this one : http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=900
I have spent a few frustrating moments trying to figure out how to connect it but finally I discovered that the negative's of BOTH leds go directly to the negative of the driver's led out. so I was left to only figure out the positive + switching part. So the + led out from the driver goes to terminals 2 and 5, the warm tinted led's + goes to the 1 and 4 terminal and finally the cool led's + goes to 3 and 6 terminals of the switch. Very simple and works great, When the switch is in the center position the + out from the driver ( contacts 2 and 5 ) energizes both upper and lower sections of 1&2 along with 5&6 which is really putting BOTH leds in a parallel configuration and thereby distributing the amperage evenly to 1.5A each.
At any other switch lever position, the full 3A is given to the respective led. There is a slight increase in apparent brightness on BOTH position as the leds are more efficient and show a very small gain in lumens. Not to be concerned about that as even a 5-10% increase in lumens does not make any difference to the camera. To actually see a doubling of brightness it has to really be 4X the lumens or 400% increase. Inverse square law.
I have spent a few frustrating moments trying to figure out how to connect it but finally I discovered that the negative's of BOTH leds go directly to the negative of the driver's led out. so I was left to only figure out the positive + switching part. So the + led out from the driver goes to terminals 2 and 5, the warm tinted led's + goes to the 1 and 4 terminal and finally the cool led's + goes to 3 and 6 terminals of the switch. Very simple and works great, When the switch is in the center position the + out from the driver ( contacts 2 and 5 ) energizes both upper and lower sections of 1&2 along with 5&6 which is really putting BOTH leds in a parallel configuration and thereby distributing the amperage evenly to 1.5A each.
At any other switch lever position, the full 3A is given to the respective led. There is a slight increase in apparent brightness on BOTH position as the leds are more efficient and show a very small gain in lumens. Not to be concerned about that as even a 5-10% increase in lumens does not make any difference to the camera. To actually see a doubling of brightness it has to really be 4X the lumens or 400% increase. Inverse square law.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
-
More EV fires after salt water flooding
- Latest: mrfixitman
-
-
