DX 15W driver + Bridgelux

[purduephotog]

I've seen this driver before-
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.26106

And there was a great thread where someone modded it to push more amps for the bridgelux 2000Lumen LED
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/235232

So, if I don't want to get that adventurous, how would one go about ganging two of these together to push 1.6A, which is almost the 1.75 recommended for the LED?

And further with that thought, what's to stop me from running, say, 8 to 10 of these in series and using them to drive my 10W LEDs in my lighting ? (or across a PSU).

Suggestions? How crazy am I?

 

[mash.m]

hi,

if you would like to use two or more of this driver, you need to synchronise the 5 modes or deactivate them - not a big problem.

___________________________________________________________________
"And further with that thought, what's to stop me from running, say, 8 to 10 of these in series and using them to drive my 10W LEDs in my lighting ? (or across a PSU)"
___________________________________________________________________´

do i understand right, you would like to use 8 or 10 of this driver in series to get more voltage (180 volts?!?) and drive your led via a power supply unit?
what kind of led´s do you use? this driver is able to output 18-19 volts in the original configuration with 800mA.

markus

 

[purduephotog]

hi,

if you would like to use two or more of this driver, you need to synchronise the 5 modes or deactivate them - not a big problem.

___________________________________________________________________
"And further with that thought, what's to stop me from running, say, 8 to 10 of these in series and using them to drive my 10W LEDs in my lighting ? (or across a PSU)"
___________________________________________________________________´

do i understand right, you would like to use 8 or 10 of this driver in series to get more voltage (180 volts?!?) and drive your led via a power supply unit?
what kind of led´s do you use? this driver is able to output 18-19 volts in the original configuration with 800mA.

markus

Yes- I wanted to do a constant current driver for some LEDEngin chips- each chip is 10W, and uses 11.8V @ .8A (or 1A). So if I had 10 of these drivers in series (as in Vin) then each one was driving a separate chip at 800ma I could use this to expand my chips instead of having to go with more Xitanium drivers.

Or, I could use 12V as Vin from an old PSU from a computer and tap off that to each individual LED (using these in parallel) to power them all.

A bunch of options... now if it could only hit 1A...

 

[mash.m]

mhh, i think it will be a lot easyer when you modify (to regular the brightness/current) a 12 volt switched power supply to drive them all without the dx driver.
or you use an old psu from a pc, but this will be not so efficient cause there is also a high current 5 volt line. in a computer psu always the 5 volt rail is monitored. if you only use the 12 volt line the psu will shut down or the 12 volt will break down. this monitoring of the 5 volt line must be deactivated. only then you can use the 12 volt line to get the high current you need. modyfie the 12 volt line with a pot at the regular circuits is also easy like any other switchet power supply.
on ebay germany there are several 12 volt power switching supply with hight current (>10A) for less then 40€. they look like a notebook psu, complete closed case so they can not release many heat (wich is a sign for high efficiency. these are also very easy to mod for your application.

markus

 

[purduephotog]

mhh, i think it will be a lot easyer when you modify (to regular the brightness/current) a 12 volt switched power supply to drive them all without the dx driver.
or you use an old psu from a pc, but this will be not so efficient cause there is also a high current 5 volt line. in a computer psu always the 5 volt rail is monitored. if you only use the 12 volt line the psu will shut down or the 12 volt will break down. this monitoring of the 5 volt line must be deactivated. only then you can use the 12 volt line to get the high current you need. modyfie the 12 volt line with a pot at the regular circuits is also easy like any other switchet power supply.
on ebay germany there are several 12 volt power switching supply with hight current (>10A) for less then 40€. they look like a notebook psu, complete closed case so they can not release many heat (wich is a sign for high efficiency. these are also very easy to mod for your application.

markus

Thats true, it would be easier to drive with just the 12V driver. Unfortunately I'm still believing I need a constant current driver- I'm worried about blowing my nice LEDs up

 

[purduephotog]

So the Neutral White 9 die bridgelux won't stay lit with just 4AA NiMH batteries. I'll have to wire another one in and see if that's enough juice to keep it on high.

 

[aurum]

@mash.m

if you would like to use two or more of this driver, you need to synchronise the 5 modes or deactivate them - not a big problem.

How do I deactivate the modes?

thanks

 

[mpf]

Yes- I wanted to do a constant current driver for some LEDEngin chips- each chip is 10W, and uses 11.8V @ .8A ...

Or, I could use 12V as Vin from an old PSU from a computer and tap off that to each individual LED (using these in parallel) to power them all.
.

Since the 12V is so close to the Vf of your Led, you could use a number of my basic drivers Build a Basic uC 3 Level Led Driver - A Tutorial
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201383

It will easily handle that power

You can also upgrade it to be bluetooth controlled
Bluetooth Controlled LedDriver - A Tutorial
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/231992
and soon mobile phone and internet controlled also

 

[zxcasd]

Note: I've found through my testing that Bridgelux's ratings - given adequate cooling - are VERY conservative. I've pushed both the C1200 and C2000 arrays to their output limit (right at about 4A is where lumen output levels off) without any issues. Granted, I performed these tests with a huge fan, heatsink, and peltier TEC, but even with passive cooling in a flashlight scenario I'm likely to be comfortable pushing them to at least 2.5A. Sometime soon I'm planning to do just that - throw one in a flashlight body with good bonding to the body for sinking, while measuring the package temperature to see how it does. I'll be comfortable if I can keep the package temperature under 100C, so the only question is how hard I can push it to keep it at that limit - I'll let you know.

-Tom @ Tom's Blog