E series switch boot

chillinn

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I have a few worn boots I need to replace. I know Mark at Lumens Factory has them, but sells only 3 colors, with ship, $26 for 3, and I only want the black one, so $26 for that one boot and two more I won't use.

These should be like $10 for 50. Anyone have a source for black E Series (z52, z57, z61, z68) switch boots?

Also, I have no idea how to replace the switch boot, so will need instruction. Thanks.
 
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chillinn

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I have heard they use the same boot. Thanks, that's what I wanted to see.

Now I just realized I need to replace some o-rings, too. :/
 

Eric242

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Also, I have no idea how to replace the switch boot, so will need instruction. Thanks.
You´ll need to unscrew the retaining ring on top of the switch with needle nose pliers or something similar (Mark has tool for that too ;-) ). You see two rather small/slim slots that make it pretty easy to slip off.
 

akula88

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Most of the retainer rings are being 'loctite'd by SF. You would need to break down the glue. I use boiling water technique to loosen them. I place the tailcap in a sealed zip-lock container and boil them for about 10 minutes or so.
 

chillinn

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The boots that need replaced are three z52 and an old beat-up z61. All my sf hardware is old. I'm only interested in the incan models (Surefire's LEDs are conspicuously terrible, but I guess they made so much money abandoning incan and switching to LED without adjusting their prices, they just don't care about the aesthetic quality of their photons, only that their lights are bomb proof).

But only my z52 boots are in bad shape, because I only carried E w/ z52 switches. The z61 came like that. But since the old-timer cartel has a strangle hold on the classic hardware, and prices have gotten so high, I doubt I'll be able to afford another genuine Surefire flashlight. Plus, we can't get any more E sockets or lamps from Tad, and MN02 (my personal fav) have all but disappeared. But I'm pretty grateful I was able to get what I could, and that Malkoff Devices, Lumens Factory & Oveready supports the community.

Anyway, I can see something like what Eric242 describes in a z68, but not in the z52 (which are embarassingly grody up close). Looks like there's a ring in there, but nothing pliers can grab, and it looks soft, rubbery.

tjhPEfv_d.jpg


IzSI4G8_d.jpg
 

chillinn

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Fasttech has silicon and rubber boot sets of 50 and 100 for $5 and $8, but I suspect they're too large: 17mm base and 15mm button width. My tape measure doesn't metric. I have seen other posts claiming the button is 13mm wide. Anyone have an E and a ruler with metric? Or happen to just know E boot dimensions? thanks again guys
 

Eric242

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Yeah I didn´t think about the older switches like the z52 and the black z54. These don´t have a retaining ring. But I think I see a hex screw in there which you should be able to unscrew and solve the problem from "the other (threaded) side". Since I have two E switches with shrouds it is rather easy so access the boot. I just measured the button with 13mm and the base with 19mm.
 

louie

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I'm not able to open my e2e right now, but back in the McE2s days I recall having these apart a lot. I'll attach the sheet I have for McE2S, which I think shows the way to open these. z52 is the original e2e lockout tailcap? I can never keep those tailcap number straight.
 

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CanAm

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Have you tried sending Mark at LF a message and asking if he would send you three black boots instead of the multi-color?
Then you'd be getting all your replacements for about 30$. 10$ a light isn't so bad for something you only need to do every few years, IMO.
Unfortunately I can't really help with the disassembly, I don't have a Z52, but to my understanding there's a ring of some sort (probably under the rubber?) that will twist out with a pin spanner or small needle nose.
 

euroken

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The boots that need replaced are three z52 and an old beat-up z61. All my sf hardware is old. I'm only interested in the incan models (Surefire's LEDs are conspicuously terrible, but I guess they made so much money abandoning incan and switching to LED without adjusting their prices, they just don't care about the aesthetic quality of their photons, only that their lights are bomb proof).

But only my z52 boots are in bad shape, because I only carried E w/ z52 switches. The z61 came like that. But since the old-timer cartel has a strangle hold on the classic hardware, and prices have gotten so high, I doubt I'll be able to afford another genuine Surefire flashlight. Plus, we can't get any more E sockets or lamps from Tad, and MN02 (my personal fav) have all but disappeared. But I'm pretty grateful I was able to get what I could, and that Malkoff Devices, Lumens Factory & Oveready supports the community.

Anyway, I can see something like what Eric242 describes in a z68, but not in the z52 (which are embarassingly grody up close). Looks like there's a ring in there, but nothing pliers can grab, and it looks soft, rubbery.

View attachment 27943

View attachment 27944
I can't quite tell from the picture but in the center of the spring, is that a a hex socket? You can pull the spring out and put it back in later ( I would give it a brush clean first). The soft ring is to prevent side contact of the negative switch (so the twisty can work properly). Otherwise, if it is rivetted, you can pull the negative contact out with a plier or punch through from the rubber boot side (given you are trying to swap out the rubber cap, this shouldn't be a problem).

Take a look at this video. It is the same idea, but challenging due to the smaller size of the switch.



Good luck.
 

euroken

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I 'may' have spare black rubber boots in my spare box (somewhere). Let me take a look over the weekend. If I can find some, I'll send it to you free. Don't hold your breath though.
 

Mark@LF

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Chillinn, if you need anything just drop me a line at the company email.
I can hook you up with All Black Switch Boots which we do sell on request.

Also, I see that the internals of your Z52 tailcap is in really rough shape due to wear and tear.
I can hook you up with a new set of that exact momentary internals or you can upgrade it to a McClicky.

Cheers.

Mark
 

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