Eagletac D25aaa
- Thread starter jonathandowers
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I want to see a review or two of this light before I buy one. I want to see how it compares to some of the other AAA lights, particularly the Thrunite Ti3 which has great output for a AAA light. I also don't know how much I trust that detachable tailcap. I'm sure some will love the magnet, but I personally have never felt the need. I wonder how it would interfere with credit cards, thumb drives or other devices in a pocket....
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CreeCrazy
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2011
- Messages
- 152
Just got mine! Ordered from Andrew & Amanda. I'm liking this little light.
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Yes,
Battery with protruded bottom top required
AAA: (10-10.5mm/44-45mm)
* When using 10440 li-ion, turn down the brightness when the light becomes too hot to touch.
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turkeylord
Enlightened
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2012
- Messages
- 410
I saw that too, I think they meant to say "button top".Battery with protruded bottom top required
markr6
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2012
- Messages
- 9,258
I can't get over that clip...darn thing sticks out almost the width of the actual light! At least it's removable, but that would probably kill the deal for me. For AAA lights, you're buying the small size. Why put a bigaz clip on it? I don't think durability has a big hand here. Oh well, still a nice light I may pick up eventually.
gunga
Flashaholic
Wow yeah. That IS a big clip...
yoyoman
Flashlight Enthusiast
It's an anti-roll feature.
markr6
Flashaholic
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- Jul 16, 2012
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- 9,258
You got that right! I think it would stay in place even if the Earth started spinning in random directions. I guess it's better than a rolling light. My Fenix E05 AAA, can't stand that thing rolling all over!
WalkIntoTheLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just FYI, I have tested that theory by taking photographs of my (Cree XML and XPG) lights in both high modes and moonlight modes (they are current controlled), adjusting for exposure but keeping white-balanced fixed, and there is no visible difference in tint between high and low modes. There may be a tint shift as per the spec sheets, but it isn't visible to the eye.
I'll take current controlled low modes every time. IMO, manufacturers that use PWM are just being cheap and lazy, because designing lights with good low-mode current control is trickier than just strobing your LED.
GordoJones88
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'm in two minds about this. I really like my D25A & C and there are not enough AAA lights that are this small, can tail stand and generally don't suck. But a magnet in a AAA light? I'm sure some people think that's not the dumbest idea ever, but I'm not one of them. AAA lights are meant to go in your pocket with all the metal things and electronic things, some of which may be sensitive to magnetic fields. I'm strongly of the belief that if your going to supply a magnetic tail cap, it should be optional. The only good use for them I know of is glovebox lights intended to be kept in a car - and AAA is not the cell size I would choose for that use case.
Oh, and a fun unintended consequence of keeping this in a pocket with your keys is that after a while your keys will most likely end up magnetised, so they'll stick together on their own!
I'm sure I'll end up getting one anyway (also in spite of the no moonlight and too many blinky modes), but I'm going to wait and see what others have to say about it first. Also would like to know if the frying pan method is the best and least destructive way to demagnetise. I'm not interested if it only weakens the magnet. I've got some neodymium hard drive magnets which could perhaps be used to pull the magnetic pill out of the tail, depending on how well it's stuck in there.
Oh, and a fun unintended consequence of keeping this in a pocket with your keys is that after a while your keys will most likely end up magnetised, so they'll stick together on their own!
I'm sure I'll end up getting one anyway (also in spite of the no moonlight and too many blinky modes), but I'm going to wait and see what others have to say about it first. Also would like to know if the frying pan method is the best and least destructive way to demagnetise. I'm not interested if it only weakens the magnet. I've got some neodymium hard drive magnets which could perhaps be used to pull the magnetic pill out of the tail, depending on how well it's stuck in there.
Also FWIW, discussion of PWM is pointless without knowing the frequency. I know some are over 1kHz, which should be imperceptible.
I don't really care abou PWM or non-PWM. I care about perceptible strobing when looking at say, a fan, or waving fingers. I care about perceptible tint shift. I care about runtime compared to similar available lights.
Those are all things that are potentially affected by PWM, but let's discuss those as they affect this specific light rather than the religious arguments about PWM itself.
Incidentally, for the "movies are 24Hz" guy, you are so wrong about how the eye works it's hard to know where to begin. Firstly, the lowest frame rate required to consistently give the illusion of motion is 12fps not 24 (even lower in special cases), which is why old Disney cartoons are 12fps. But that's not the same thing as making flicker imperceptible. It's pretty easy to see flicker on a low-persistence display up to about 100Hz, especially in peripheral vision. I forget the actual figures but the eye can detect motion at a "frame rate" over 1,000Hz. However, the eye does not actually have a frame rate so that figure while illustrative, is sort of meaningless.
I have a particular dog in this race in that I get migraines and these can be brought on by flickering lights, including fluorescent tubes (50Hz here in the UK) and older computer monitors. I used to always check if a CRT monitor had perceptible flicker by looking at it indirectly. I could easily see it strobing up to about 90Hz and this only became imperceptible at 120Hz. Frequency in Hz doesn't tell the full story either: not every strobe is a perfect square wave with equal positive and negative phase. You don't get this problem with LCDs because they are high-persistence, so they don't flicker, even with a lower refresh rate (typically 60Hz). Older LCDs had a big problem with "ghosting" because of this. It's still noticeable at times, like if you scroll a web page really fast.
So, unlike most people here, I have a good reason to dislike PWM. And yet, given that exposure times tend to be quite short and total lumens relatively low, I really don't care about it very much at all.
I don't really care abou PWM or non-PWM. I care about perceptible strobing when looking at say, a fan, or waving fingers. I care about perceptible tint shift. I care about runtime compared to similar available lights.
Those are all things that are potentially affected by PWM, but let's discuss those as they affect this specific light rather than the religious arguments about PWM itself.
Incidentally, for the "movies are 24Hz" guy, you are so wrong about how the eye works it's hard to know where to begin. Firstly, the lowest frame rate required to consistently give the illusion of motion is 12fps not 24 (even lower in special cases), which is why old Disney cartoons are 12fps. But that's not the same thing as making flicker imperceptible. It's pretty easy to see flicker on a low-persistence display up to about 100Hz, especially in peripheral vision. I forget the actual figures but the eye can detect motion at a "frame rate" over 1,000Hz. However, the eye does not actually have a frame rate so that figure while illustrative, is sort of meaningless.
I have a particular dog in this race in that I get migraines and these can be brought on by flickering lights, including fluorescent tubes (50Hz here in the UK) and older computer monitors. I used to always check if a CRT monitor had perceptible flicker by looking at it indirectly. I could easily see it strobing up to about 90Hz and this only became imperceptible at 120Hz. Frequency in Hz doesn't tell the full story either: not every strobe is a perfect square wave with equal positive and negative phase. You don't get this problem with LCDs because they are high-persistence, so they don't flicker, even with a lower refresh rate (typically 60Hz). Older LCDs had a big problem with "ghosting" because of this. It's still noticeable at times, like if you scroll a web page really fast.
So, unlike most people here, I have a good reason to dislike PWM. And yet, given that exposure times tend to be quite short and total lumens relatively low, I really don't care about it very much at all.
WalkIntoTheLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Most keys are brass, so aren't affected by magnets at all. It's primarily just steel stuff that will be affected. I also believe the dangers of demagnetizing credit cards is overstated, and that's assuming you still use cards with those 1980's era magnetic strips. I think you'd have to stick the magnet right on the strip to do damage. Remember that magnets are used close to all kinds of more sensitive things; for example, computer hard drives use powerful magnets in their control arms, and those don't affect the contents of the magnetized hard disk.
I have a Preon P0 keychain light that has a magnet in its tail, and I find it more useful than annoying. You can stick the light on just about any steel surface to throw light into a room. Stick it on a light switch screw, a drawer handle, a hinge, a ceiling fan, etc. My keyring is steel, so it has a tendency to stick to it, but that's the only thing in my pocket that is steel, and it's really not an issue.
I do agree that having the option to remove the magnet would be nice.
How do you like it?
Is the clip pliant enough for a one handed draw, one handed clip to pocket?
Flight_Deck
Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
- Messages
- 299
Amazing light!
Using a 10440 this thing is brighter than a four sevens Preon running on a 10440 (though not recommended by the manufacturer), by at least 20% to my eye.
A real keeper to be sure!
Using a 10440 this thing is brighter than a four sevens Preon running on a 10440 (though not recommended by the manufacturer), by at least 20% to my eye.
A real keeper to be sure!
Flight_Deck
Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
- Messages
- 299
Yes, the clip is quite pliable. A big clip to be sure, but I'm REALLY liking this little light!
