Eagletac GX25A3 (XM-L2 U2, 3xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS and more!

[Dr.444]

Energy saving technology
This feature prolongs turbo output runtime, by reducing output current by 45% after 200 seconds at turbo mode.
With this feature disabled by user, it reduces output current by only 15% after 200 seconds at turbo mode for higher output.

You sure it's 25% & 10% as u said in the review ?

 

[selfbuilt]

This feature prolongs turbo output runtime, by reducing output current by 45% after 200 seconds at turbo mode.
With this feature disabled by user, it reduces output current by only 15% after 200 seconds at turbo mode for higher output.

You sure it's 25% & 10% as u said in the review ?

The manual that came with my sample is printed with the 25% and 10% numbers. The current version of the website says 45% and 15%.

For the record, my testing shows a ~30% and ~10% drop in output, which is more consistent with the original printed specs. However, it is possible that may have changed.

 

[MojaveMoon07]

Paired with the Olight diffuser, I think this will likely be a great light for a family member. Also, during a discussion of the Nitecore EA4 someone posted a picture of a great idea -- (s)he connected a lanyard to the EA4 and Olight diffuser. Since the GX25A3 has a place to connect a lanyard, hopefully what that person did can be replicated with the GX25A3 and Olight diffuser. See post # 1118 at this (link)

Question:
I've postponed purchasing the GX25A3 because I'm confused about purchasing the Olight diffuser. I've seen customers refer to it sometimes as a model M21 and sometimes as a model M21X, and I've seen retailers refer to it sometimes as a model M21, M21X, or M22. Since I don't know anything about the Olight M21, M21X, and M22 flashlights, I'm unable to make sense out of the varying descriptions of this diffuser. I've also come across at retailers' websites a white Olight diffuser # M20 , M18, and M10; but those three might have different dimensions than the Olight diffuser that fits the GX25A3 and EA4 ?

 

[selfbuilt]

I've seen customers refer to it sometimes as a model M21 and sometimes as a model M21X, and I've seen retailers refer to it sometimes as a model M21, M21X, or M22. Since I don't know anything about the Olight M21, M21X, and M22 flashlights, I'm unable to make sense out of the varying descriptions of this diffuser. I've also come across at retailers' websites a white Olight diffuser # M20 , M18, and M10; but those three might have different dimensions than the Olight diffuser that fits the GX25A3 and EA4 ?

I know it's confusing. The problem is due to the changing head diameters over various models.

Currently, the M21X (40.3mm bezel) and M22 (41.2mm bezel) share the exact same diffuser head, which will fit on the GX25A3 (38.6mm). Note that the fit is ok but not overly tight (i.e., Olight diffusers have a fair amount of stretch). The early M21 had a slightly smaller head (38.5mm), and not sure if the diffuser was the same as the current M21X/M22 (but either way, it would fit, given the identical measures).

The M20 series diffusers are definitely too small (35.6mm bezel), as are the smaller series ones.

 

[MojaveMoon07]

Thank you selfbuilt for explaining that! That helps me a lot.

 

[MojaveMoon07]

There is one more aspect of the GX25A3 that I am considering. I enjoy warm white indoors. But outdoors the tint of my warm white 4sevens high cri MiNi AA sometimes makes things here in the city look discolored such that I feel like my visual recognization might be impaired when I'm trying to avoid hazards in the road or on the sidewalk. Looking at Stephano's photo posted up above, it looks like the tint of the NW GX25A3 is halfway between white and warm white. In the city I'm wondering whether the CW or the NW GX25A3 would be preferrable. According to the comments I've read, the CW GX25A3 does not have the cold white tint or the blue tint of the typical cool white LED.

On the other hand, two retailers list the NW GX25A3 as out of stock/backordered. So maybe the NW was limited in quantity ?

 

[holylight]

Can ea4 40mm diffuser fit in?

 

[selfbuilt]

Can ea4 40mm diffuser fit in?

Yes, it will fit. But like with most 40mm diffusers, it is not overly snug on the GX25A3's 38.5mm head.

 

[holylight]

Yes, it will fit. But like with most 40mm diffusers, it is not overly snug on the GX25A3's 38.5mm head.

Ok thanks

 

[WildLight]

There is one more aspect of the GX25A3 that I am considering. I enjoy warm white indoors. But outdoors the tint of my warm white 4sevens high cri MiNi AA sometimes makes things here in the city look discolored such that I feel like my visual recognization might be impaired when I'm trying to avoid hazards in the road or on the sidewalk. Looking at Stephano's photo posted up above, it looks like the tint of the NW GX25A3 is halfway between white and warm white. In the city I'm wondering whether the CW or the NW GX25A3 would be preferrable. According to the comments I've read, the CW GX25A3 does not have the cold white tint or the blue tint of the typical cool white LED.

On the other hand, two retailers list the NW GX25A3 as out of stock/backordered. So maybe the NW was limited in quantity ?

I am on the same boat as you, I was looking for the neutral L2 T6 version but seems out of stock everywhere, don't know if because limited quantity or because it is such a successful light that got sold out fast everywhere. However I wrote Eagletac and last week Christina from costumer service replied that they will begin to ship to dealers from factory in a couple of days.

In the meantime I got the L2 U2 cool white version and I love it!! Can't wait to go into the woods this weekend to play with this amazing flashlight.

I love outdoors activities (backpacking, hiking, etc) that is why I am looking for the neutral white version but after seeing Stefano pictures (thank you very much) I wonder if is not too warm for my taste, when I wrote ET regarding this they replied saying the neutral white led of this batch is 4C.

Finally, thank you so much to Selfbuilt for such amazing reviews, is because of yours reviews that I base on my flashlight purchases.

 

[selfbuilt]

I am on the same boat as you, I was looking for the neutral L2 T6 version but seems out of stock everywhere, don't know if because limited quantity or because it is such a successful light that got sold out fast everywhere. However I wrote Eagletac and last week Christina from costumer service replied that they will begin to ship to dealers from factory in a couple of days. ... when I wrote ET regarding this they replied saying the neutral white led of this batch is 4C.

Yes, I think there is a lot of interest in the neutral white options from Eagletac, so dealer stock inventories can sometimes be an issue. And of course, tint bin can vary - 4C a little warmer than some would like, I suspect.

And :welcome:

 

[Animalmother]

My Eagletac GX25A3 can't do 910 lumens on 3AA.
It says in my manual that the max ANSI rated was 738.
Whats going on?

 

[selfbuilt]

My Eagletac GX25A3 can't do 910 lumens on 3AA.
It says in my manual that the max ANSI rated was 738.
Whats going on?

Just a guess, but does the manual specify XM-L U2 (as opposed the XM-L2 U2)? That would likely account for it.

Regardless of what the manual says, you can tell if you have a XM-L2 by looking at the emitter. It should appear exactly as the one in this review (i.e., have a silver surround square, not a green one - and no bond wire grid over the surface of the die). If you see a wire grid and a green surround, you have XM-L version.

The XM-L2 U2 should be ~14% brighter on max than the XM-L U2 (although could in fact be anywhere from 8-20%, given the range of output bins).

 

[Animalmother]

XM-L U2, I did not know!
So the XM-L L2 is what really wanted. It gets 910 ANSI on 3 eneloops?

I do have a silver square and no noticeable grid. Manual says xm-l u2.
I compared it to my nitecore ea4 and the ea4 is much brighter so i know it's not the 910 ansi i bought it for.

exact light
you can see the emitter in the picture is matches your description.
Manual says U2 though, odd.

 

[selfbuilt]

I do have a silver square and no noticeable grid. Manual says xm-l u2.
I compared it to my nitecore ea4 and the ea4 is much brighter so i know it's not the 910 ansi i bought it for.

Yes, then you got the XM-L2 as you expected. Performance should be comparable to the one I reviewed here.

Checking the manufacturer website, I only see technical specs for the newer XM-L2 light - which match what I reported here. But if you follow the link for the PDF manual download, what they provide does indeed have the old XM-L specs (with 738 lumens are you indicated). I guess they haven't updated their printed manuals with the proper XM-L2 specs yet. :shrug:

 

[moldyoldy]

Begin quote from SelfBuilt's review:

"Potential Issues

As with other Eagletac models where output mode is set by the degree the head is tightened, you need to keep all contact surfaces in the head scrupulously clean. Long-term reliability of the switching mechanism/pins is unknown."

end quote -----------------

My failure report of a GX25A3 switching/pin system is based on a single sample. Hence, a datapoint of 1, degrees of freedom 0, so nothing can be concluded except that my copy of this light had a switching failure. The head-twisting switching system relies on 3 spring-loaded pins to maintain contact with the dual rings. In this single case, one of the spring-loaded pins developed a weakness in the spring such that the pin no longer contacted anything. The light remained mostly in low mode. I tried pushing on the pins to determine if maybe I could 'pop out' that pin. no luck.

At the same time I purchased the SX25L3 MT-P0 model which uses the same switching mechanics of 3 pins. However these pins are thicker in diameter which gives more room for a more robust spring. So far no problems.

Nevertheless, the head-rotation to change the light levels also rotates the on/off switch. That really messes up my handhold. I gave up and returned the GX25A3 for credit. I decided to retain the SX25L3 primarily because of the impressive output from a single LED and to see if I could get used to that switching mechanism. eh, still not a desirable method to switch levels.

 

[Animalmother]

Aweee I see, that makes sense. I am relieved! Thanks again selfbuilt

 

[selfbuilt]

At the same time I purchased the SX25L3 MT-P0 model which uses the same switching mechanics of 3 pins. However these pins are thicker in diameter which gives more room for a more robust spring. So far no problems.

Interesting observation - and one that I share.

FYI, I had some contact with Eagletac after this review, where I expressed my concern about the potential long-term stability of the pins. They said they were working on improving the design, and I note that my SX25L3 (which I received subsequently) does seem more robust in that regard.

 

[D6859]

You drop down again to the third (and final) level after a ~120 degree turn.

How accurate is this? I just got mine and by quick testing it seems that it needs only approx. 30 degree turn (about the length of the power button, less than 90 degree for sure) to drop to the third level. Since the head needs to be fully closed to have turbo/hi mode - and applied a little force to ensure it's closed, it often feels a little jammed when trying to get lower modes. I think this might be a problem when trying to find the medium mode with gloves on. I even accidentally opened the tailcap twice when testing the UI, so that the light turned off. I'm afraid I don't like this kind of UI.

Also, the threading in my light seems to differ 180 degrees from yours. I.e. the power button is over 'G' of the text 'GX25A3' when dropping to med mode. I can provide pictures if my explanation is not understandable. As a result, I find the light better fitting into my left hand and the power button easier to use with left (though, the UI is easier to use with right). This isn't a problem, because I'm kind of a both-handed, but might annoy someone really right-handed user.

But I think I'll go out testing the light and try to use it wearing mittens.

 

[Rexlion]

D6859, I think the logo might be printed randomly in terms of rotational location, so it probably varies from unit to unit. As for turn distance, my light goes from high (tight) to medium with just a slight loosening turn, but then needs about 120 degrees of turn to reach low. Are you saying that with yours the high to low is just a 30 degree turn? That sounds rather convenient.... or does that give you some problems finding and staying in medium when you want it?

I can't imagine having trouble keeping the tailcap on. Sounds like perhaps you didn't have it on tight enough to start with. Make sure the tailcap is fully tight before you start... a fair bit tighter than the head will ever be. Let us know how you make out with further use.