Emisar D4 owners- tint questions

Bazar

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I would aim for the 219c, side effects its the hottest running....................none of them can run long anyway, so might as well get the colour temp you like!. My 219c is a clean white beam, thats what i wanted and got! Clips wise, the better option is probably oveready or darksucks, just dremmel the inner part a little to fit over threads. Yes a $25 clip, if you like the light(pretty much guaranteed) then its worth it to secure the light and imo looks far nicer than the cheap clip on clips. Subjective!

As for less bright................3800lm is hardly dim:). Will not throw quite as far as the HI versionn but reaches out enough for most uses. Maybe a few 100lm less.............in the scheme of things it would not be a deciding factor for me. Colour temp/tint is what you will be looking at , the 219c is nice all the way through the levels.

I got the 219c, for the wider flood and the price and color.
 

ven

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I got the 219c, for the wider flood and the price and color.

Right now I use it as part of my work light rotation , the clean 5000k works great during the day. Evening uses i like a little warmer(still use 5000k though) , so the 4000k xp-g2 gets some use.
 

Puffcat

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Well, my D4 XPL 1A came today and I am absolutely impressed! I was so worried that I had ordered the wrong tint since it seems the least popular option here but I absolutely love it. Just a brilliant, pure white light. Will do some comparisons later but I swear this looks brighter than my Olight X7, at least for the 10-15 seconds I can hold it. I cannot even imagine the Nichia if it gets hotter faster. Will play around with the thermal setting thing and the pocket clip tomorrow. Would also like to find a sheath for it as well if anyone has any recomendations.
 

andreas0401

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1w6o55.gif
 

Puffcat

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While I appreciate the examples, I find it difficult to see what an emitter looks like when photos (and videos) are taken in the woods or a grassy field. Nearly everything is green! No whites, reds, blues,etc.. Back to my new D4. I am quite amazed at just how accurate colors are with the 1A tint. Maybe I got a Nichia by mistake, although the box is marked XPL HI V3 1A. Any way to visually check? Another thing to note is, this D4 definitely throws farther than my X7 and the flood is nearly as good. In all honesty, I am not sure if I would have bought the X7 if I had known the D4 was this capable.
 

ven

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Glad happy, the HI LEDs are easy to spot, they look flat! Basically they don't have the usual dome on .
 

Puffcat

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OK, couple questions for the D4 experts. The only issue I am having is when trying to enter a mode, I have to do it multiple times due to my poor button clicking skills. Lockout Mode, which would be the most used, is the one I have the most trouble with. I sometimes have to do it 4-5 times. I did manage to check the Thermal Setting and it's at 45 which is the default I believe. Any tips on setting it lower or improving my button clicking?
 

ven

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Just practice really, you will soon get the feel of it. 4 clicks for (this is off the top of my head) tactical, so a momentary. 4 clicks again gets you out of this mode. 3 clicks is bat check. 6 clicks is lock out, again needs 6 clicks to come out. Dont bother with this mode though, just undo tail cap a few mm to lock out(easier!)

When pressing, dont take finger off button, keep it on, take up the slight play(or soft part in the boot) then you can fast click without taking finger off switch.

To get into driver settings, 10 clicks and hold on last click........keep holding! You can set this to your own preference by leaving the switch pressed through the temp count, then the short flicker, then on to turbo. Keep hold all the way through, when you let go(be it warm, hot.............super hot) will set it roughly to that temp setting. So letting go early will set it to step down earlier, leaving it pressed for longer will give you max turbo(from cold), but step downs are more aggressive to get back under control. Its still gaining temp even when its stepping down, so this takes a while to get under control(no more step downs).

I tend to just ramp to the level i want and use that, if i want super bright i double click for 100% output/blast. Then simply double click again to revert to the previous level i was on before double clicking. Either way 100% is short lived, its for short blasts/scans and wow factor.

The lock out/lock in level of 350ma is a quite useful 140-160lm level(kind of a do it all level for me). So i simply undo tail cap a few mm and lock back in, you get the double blink to tell you. Then i know roughly what level/output i am on.
 

Puffcat

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Thanks for the "clicking technique " tips! Funny you should mention the 4 click momentary mode since that's the one I accidentally click into the most. Great advice on just using the tail cap for lockout as well as I do like the 150 lumen default. I think I just need some more time in the dark with it before messing with the Thermal Mode. This truly is an amazing flashlight. Actually it seems like more of an Illumination Instrument than just a flashlight. I have not even looked at my X7 since I got the D4! Thanks for your help!!!
 

eh4

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In addition, the lockout mode Does Not survive the tail cap or battery tube loosen lockout... loosen the light with lockout activated, tighten a split second later and it's gone. The lockout by loosening is better in that it's quicker, and brings the 350mA single click "last mode"...
4 clicks to enable the high/momentary only, does persist after lockout by loosening, neat.
For fast clicking to program tail click lights I like to grip the light with a "spray bottle" grip and use my index finger instead of thumb for rapid clicks, and for a side switch like D1 or D4, switch facing ground, index finger is still easier for me.
 
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Puffcat

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Wow, you guys should collabarate on a D4 training video. Lots of great info and tips. I was just sitting here thinking about my old steel mill days. Ten years in electrical maintenance using the same yellow, 2D company issued flashlight. The steel mill environment required nearly constant use of our lights and a constant supply of batteries and bulbs. A couple hundred lumens at most but I don't ever remember complaining about its output.
 

ven

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Yes an awesome light the D4, but for high output and for any length of time, it's not ideal. It's certainly a good option for a high powered edc, can be run frugally on lower outputs, yet if needed a pop can output for short blasts. The x7 can run for much longer at similar outputs(or greater for that matter) due to more mass/heat sinking. So for any use where minutes and longer of high output is required,the x7 has its place(with the D4 in pocket as back up). Also being a 4 cell light, any power cuts the x7 has enough in the tank to illuminate a decent area(tail stood for example) for much much longer(set at same output for example). Both lights are easily justified imo as both serve different uses . D4 is certainly more convenient to grab out the door, but for any use over a 600-800lm for any decent length of time(maybe an hour)........x7 comes in.
 

Puffcat

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You have the best illustrations of the D4 in your videos! Not just trees and grass but scenes where one might actually use a flashlight.I am not sure why but my new D4 XPL 1A has none of the blue tint shown here and your videos. Maybe I got lucky. I even tried tricking my wife by asking if she thought the beam was too blue and she agreed there was no blue at all.
 

Fireclaw18

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One thing not readily apparent in the KG Tuning's pictures 2 posts up is the lack of punch present in the Nichia 219C. It has the least throw of all the LED choices, meaning you'll probably have to turn the light up higher to achieve the same brightness. Even worse, the 219C gets hot the fastest making it impractical for running at high power for extended periods.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the 219C in this light. It just doesn't look very bright. It's too floody and gets too hot.

My favorite emitter choice is XPL HI ... but to be fair I swapped out the stock XPL HI and replaced it with 2x5A2 and 2x3A tint XPL HI on one of Richard's offset stars. The effect is a very pleasant neutral tint beam. No hint of green at any brightness and much throwier and brighter than using 219C.
 

Tixx

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One thing not readily apparent in the KG Tuning's pictures 2 posts up is the lack of punch present in the Nichia 219C. It has the least throw of all the LED choices, meaning you'll probably have to turn the light up higher to achieve the same brightness. Even worse, the 219C gets hot the fastest making it impractical for running at high power for extended periods.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the 219C in this light. It just doesn't look very bright. It's too floody and gets too hot.

My favorite emitter choice is XPL HI ... but to be fair I swapped out the stock XPL HI and replaced it with 2x5A2 and 2x3A tint XPL HI on one of Richard's offset stars. The effect is a very pleasant neutral tint beam. No hint of green at any brightness and much throwier and brighter than using 219C.

Yeah, those are the reasons I left the 219c and went with the XP-G2 4000k.
 

blah9

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I bought the D4vn with XPGs as well as the D4 with Nichia LEDs to cover all the bases in terms of flood and throw haha. I haven't received the final D4vn yet but time will tell which one I prefer most of the time. I have a feeling I will prefer the D4vn outdoors but it might be nice to have the most amount of flood for things that are more close up.
 

Tixx

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Forgot I still had an XP-G2 5000k version as well. Very nice for the pure white crowd! I'm liking it.
 
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