Fenix LD12 (1xAA, XP-G2 R5) Mini-Review: RUNTIMES, OUTPUT MEASURES, VIDEO.

[selfbuilt]

Am I reading the output summary chart correctly, the LD12 max output is only 5 lumens more than the E11?

Yes, but that's not surprising - my E11 is rated by Fenix as 115 lumens, and my LD12 is rated as 125 lumens.

 

[bhds]

Yes, but that's not surprising - my E11 is rated by Fenix as 115 lumens, and my LD12 is rated as 125 lumens.

The search continues for a upgrade/replacement for my E11. Thanks Selfbuilt.

 

[Wiggle]

Great review! Not to sound stupid here, but why don't you want PWM.
That was also interesting the older model put out more light then the newer one.

PWM is a negative to many users cause of a few reasons. In some cases in can produce visible flicker (though better PWM drivers can avoid this for most users) and the efficiency is noticeably lower. Take for example the recent revision of the Olight i3, it switched from PWM to current controlled and got huge increases in runtime on lower modes (much more than the XP-G to XP-G2 upgrade would cause). PWM does have an upside though; it tends to reduce tint shift at lower levels.

 

[selfbuilt]

Great review! Not to sound stupid here, but why don't you want PWM.
That was also interesting the older model put out more light then the newer one.

Actually, regulated max output is about the same between my LD12 and LD10. It is just that initial output that had marginally higher, on NiMH.

As for benefits/drawbacks of PWM, that is covered in other threads here on cpf. And in any case, it is not relevant to this review, since none of these Fenix lights use PWM. The question here is really about flicker presence.

 

[reppans]

Selfbuilt, I didn't see your usual chart (well usual for the last year or so) comparing the spec lumens for each mode to your estimate. I found this to be one of the most useful charts since some of the specs can be way off, and well, we probably use the lower modes on our lights the most often.

Also, the LD12 seems somewhat short on it's runtime specs, do you think it would meet its runtime on the "spec'd" 2500 mah cell (not sure it provides a full 25% bump over a 2000mah) and using a 10% output ANSI cutoff?

 

[selfbuilt]

Selfbuilt, I didn't see your usual chart (well usual for the last year or so) comparing the spec lumens for each mode to your estimate. I found this to be one of the most useful charts since some of the specs can be way off, and well, we probably use the lower modes on our lights the most often.

Also, the LD12 seems somewhat short on it's runtime specs, do you think it would meet its runtime on the "spec'd" 2500 mah cell (not sure it provides a full 25% bump over a 2000mah) and using a 10% output ANSI cutoff?

So much for my mini review. Ok, I will add the output table tomorrow.

For the runtimes, it is true the specs seem slightly inflated, even with the higher capacity cells. It's not a huge variance. I would say the performance seen on my sample is very good - but not outstanding - for a control current circuit. Meeting those specs would certainly be a sign of excellence.

But again, you have to take this as the n=1 sample it is - average performance could be higher than this one sample.

 

[reppans]

So much for my mini review. Ok, I will add the output table tomorrow.

For the runtimes, it is true the specs seem slightly inflated, even with the higher capacity cells. It's not a huge variance. I would say the performance seen on my sample is very good - but not outstanding - for a control current circuit. Meeting those specs would certainly be a sign of excellence.

But again, you have to take this as the n=1 sample it is - average performance could be higher than this one sample.

Crud.. I missed the "Mini" in the title, certainly don't need to do this on account of me (although I think that chart might be one of your most important to your readers, and least time consuming), so your call.

Interesting comment on sample variation... do you find significant variations between different samples of the same light (Olight S15 case excluded)? I have multiple copies of a few lights and meter the lumen outputs to very consistent, but generally do not test runtimes between the different samples of the same light.

 

[selfbuilt]

Runtime variation is greater than output variation between samples, by far. That's because more variables are at play (e.g., Vf of the emitter will influence runtime, but is irrelevant for output).

This is especially true at low drive currents, it seems. Another reason why I don't do extended low mode runtime tests - the results are impossible to interpret without a measure of variation. Hi modes are a lot more consistent.

 

[selfbuilt]

As promised.

 

[reppans]

Thanks Selfbuilt, great info on both accounts, much appreciated!

 

[N_N_R]

I received mine the other day and I'm happy **yahoo** I'm not picky or an expert when it comes to lights, I've always loved Fenix, so I usually like whatever they offer, lol. I haven't noticed any flickering or problems so far, I'm totally digging it I also had and used the E11 mainly before that and I must say that the 30 lumens on the LD12 look a lot brighter than the 35 on the E11. And I'm very happy with the long run times they promise. Even if they aren't true, it must be still more than the other run times I've seen. Anyway, I'm totally digging it

 

[välineurheilija]

I received mine the other day and I'm happy **yahoo** I'm not picky or an expert when it comes to lights, I've always loved Fenix, so I usually like whatever they offer, lol. I haven't noticed any flickering or problems so far, I'm totally digging it I also had and used the E11 mainly before that and I must say that the 30 lumens on the LD12 look a lot brighter than the 35 on the E11. And I'm very happy with the long run times they promise. Even if they aren't true, it must be still more than the other run times I've seen. Anyway, I'm totally digging it

I saw your video its a good light


Sent from a mobile telephone

 

[hiuintahs]

........If I were to hazard a guess, there is probably some component on the LD12 circuit that is not reliably performing to expected specs, and this is generating some variable degree of interference/noise.............


Performance-wise, I am happy to report that this signal issue doesn't affect runtime - my LD12 performs as a current-controlled light should, with very good output/runtime efficiency............

I agree with selfbuilt on this assessment. I think they have a wrong component in manufacturing. Definitely something is amiss based on previous Fenix quality.

However I will say that this noise that is on the emitter affects my efficiency a lot based on my runtime tests on my data logging light meter. I managed to take the head off so that I could connect an oscilloscope across the LED to see what is going on -> post #4

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...sy-circuit-)&p=4295019&highlight=#post4295019

So, I think it is very hit and miss with the LD12. They definitely have something wrong with it. My very first LD12 from 2 years ago was excellent and well regulated. Then I bought a couple of LD12's recently with the R5 and they were not. I don't know about the G2 though, but it sounds like the control electronics are a continuation of the late model R5's.

I had some communication with Fenix on this and they are basically in denial. I cannot recommend this light at all. Ironically the PD32 is one of my favorites.

Anyone ever taken the driver board out of one of these with the side switch?

 

[N_N_R]

I think I mentioned it in another thread already... but it skips the high mode from time to time and from medium goes directly to turbo. And recently it's started to jump from low directly to turbo. It doesn't do it often, but its unpredictability is annoying.

 

[hiuintahs]

One of the reasons for bringing this issue up to the top again, aside from the fact that I'm kind of disillusioned with Fenix at the moment , is that I noticed that on mine I only get turbo mode if an Eneloop battery is freshly charged. Once the voltage just drops a little going from high to turbo is the same output. At first I thought my battery needed charging and found that it was still pretty much charged (1.34v on an Eneloop). My LD12 is now part of my low-end collection. I love the look of the LD12, its size and mechanical quality. So before I even knew I had an issue I changed the LED to my perfect tint XP-G2. Then I wanted to compare its runtime with the early vintage LD12 (XP-G) of 2 years ago. First I thought I had a bad one and ordered another. When that one was bad too...........I suspected something was wrong with the design.......... too coincident to have 2 in a row. The 2nd one was returned for a refund. I'm sure its just going to be re-sold. I suggested to the vendor that they send it back to Fenix for evaluation. But I really doubt anything has been done.

 

[Brasso]

This is my first Fenix light and it's a great little light. But there are a couple of things that they could improve upon.

1. It can't tail stand. This automatically knocks it out of edc rotation for me. I do use it for a backup duty light though due to it's mode memory and momentary function.

2. The modes are not spaced well. Basically the high mode, or 3rd setting, is a waste. It's indistinguishable from turbo. They should drop it entirely and add a firefly mode. Instead of 3/30/65/125 they should do .3/3/30/125. This would make much more sense from a logarithmic nature as this is what our eyes would perceive as a distinct output change.

Personally I would like to see them at least make a special run with a neutral or high cri emitter, but that can be modded if need be. I don't really care about it not having 14500 support. It has fantastic run time and I prefer to use Eneloops on single AA lights anway. I find that 125 lumens is more than enough for an edc pocket light.

 

[Swedpat]

This is my first Fenix light and it's a great little light. But there are a couple of things that they could improve upon.

1. It can't tail stand. This automatically knocks it out of edc rotation for me. I do use it for a backup duty light though due to it's mode memory and momentary function.

2. The modes are not spaced well. Basically the high mode, or 3rd setting, is a waste. It's indistinguishable from turbo. They should drop it entirely and add a firefly mode. Instead of 3/30/65/125 they should do .3/3/30/125. This would make much more sense from a logarithmic nature as this is what our eyes would perceive as a distinct output change.

Personally I would like to see them at least make a special run with a neutral or high cri emitter, but that can be modded if need be. I don't really care about it not having 14500 support. It has fantastic run time and I prefer to use Eneloops on single AA lights anway. I find that 125 lumens is more than enough for an edc pocket light.

Very good point! :thumbsup: I Actually noticed it with my LD10(gave it to a friend). Found it sometimes hard to see the difference, which made me doubtful. The lightmeter confirmed the brightness differences, but I have noticed it's enough with a very short time of darkness between the mode change for making it difficult to see the difference if it's not significant. In my opinion it should be at least 3 times difference between modes, and I find your proposal to be excellent.

 

[shelm]

i got myself the LD12 G2 (125 ANSI fenix-lumens spec) a while ago and am extremely pleased with it. i have a DIY integrating lumens sphere but a simple double white wall bounce suffices to determine that it is ****ing brighter than my 2 Klarus lights which i got cheap during xmas sale, the:

• Klarus P1A (XP-G R5 Premium, 150 ANSI klarus-lumens spec)
• Klarus RS1A (XP-G2, 210 ANSI klarus-lumens spec)

i actually complained to my dealer and got replacement copies of the Klarus lights and also tested another LD12 G2 sample, and i get the same picture. the LD12 is about as bright as my JR30 R5 (120 ANSI rofis-lumens spec) and both are not by much yet clearly brighter than the 2 Klarus lights wth?!

imho Klarus should really re-calibrate their IS to the scale which is used by Fenix/Rofis :shrug:

my DIY IS is calibrated after my bunch of fenix lights and i get the following readings:
LD12 G2 = 125 ANSI shelm-lumens measured = 125 ANSI fenix-lumens spec
RS1A G2 = 115 ANSI shelm-lumens measured
P1A R5 = 100 ANSI shelm-lumens measured

And that's exactly why i am so extremely pleased with my LD12 G2 (driver version 2012.5.10). It may be not as bright as eagles or zebras or armys but other than that it has top of class efficiency and also stunning brightness on 1xEneloop. If i hadn't got the 2 Klarus lights that forbiddingly cheap, i would have returned them to the dealer for a full refund. But at the highly discounted special offer xmas price, i'll keep them as future gifts. Klarus lights have sweet build quality, one can't snooze on that.
:wave:


Hopefully i made my point (no need to prove it, just check for yourself and get deceived yourself by Klarus ANSI lumens specs with regard to their "Eneloop lights") and hopefully many readers read and learn it.

Back on topic. I am still wondering what the purpose of the raised edges of the aluminum tail cap is if not for tail-standing. If the light cannot tailstand, then Fenix should get rid of the raised edges altogether, see Armytek Partner Pro.

 

[Labrador72]

What you say completely makes sense: doing ceiling bounce tests, I perceive my Fenix LD10 (100 lumens) to be as bright or actually even slightly brighter than my Klarus XT1A (150 lumens).

 

[N_N_R]

Hey guys, who have the new LD12, do yours... rattle? lol. I just tapped the lens for some reason and I heard a slight rattle. I shook the whole flashlight,the rattle appeared. Then I unscrewed the head to make sure it was IN the head, shook again and the rattle's still there. It's true I've dropped the flashlight about 5 or more times on tiles from 0.5m or so, but its functions are absolutely intact and it works flawlessly.

Any idea what that rattle in the head might be?