Fixed Lighting for Storm Shelter

[SemiMan]

For solar I like automotive LED bulbs mated with marine fixtures, buses, switches and connectors. Other than the bulbs, automotive outlets, connectors, etc are far too lossy for my solar apps. Designs for 13.5v charging systems and a full tank of gas aren't very compatible with solar/marine systems, IMO. Apples and oranges. YMMV.

12v cigarette lighter/outlets are a typical example. One may buy an automotive outlet for as little as $3. They are lossy and a bad deal when compared to the cost of one's batteries. I normally use Anderson Powerpoles but if I absolutely need to use a 12v cigarette lighter outlet I'll buy one designed for marine use. It will have a larger contact area and be made of materials that will do a better job of coping with corrosive environments. They are also designed to handle more G shocks than automotive sockets as the are designed to be installed on boats crashing through waves. I have one that even locks the plug into the socket.

Marine gear costs more on the surface but lossy automotive parts diminish the performance of the rest of one's system which imposes it's own costs. I try to think about how each part will interact with the whole system and choose which category to buy from on a part by part basis.

Notice I said "Transportation" not automotive. Most transportation lighting is hard wired. There is nothing wrong with proper automotive connectors. They are efficient and they are not lossy or unreliable. A lossy connector = heat, something people in automotive do not go for at least on purpose. Proper automotive/transportation connectors also must stand exceptional vibration and also corrosive environments, just not immersion. Of course, they are normally a fraction of pure marine stuff as the volume is so high. I don't consider a light socket a "connector".

That said, connector losses will be but a fraction of the losses from a high efficiency LED versus a low efficiency LED "bulb" or 12V fluorescent fixture. Connector losses are likely to be also a fraction of wiring losses.

Anderson connectors are great, but unless you have a proper crimp tool, best to buy them pre-assembled. You could solder them, but given the connector has no strain relief without an additional shell, soldering makes for brittle connections.

Semiman

 

[SemiMan]

Do you have an opinion about the Optima batteries?

Follow what INETDOG said, make sure you get the proper Optima battery designed for deep cycle applications.

They are a good battery and will give you long life if treated well. Most chargers do not treat batteries that well unfortunately. You are best with a high quality lower current battery charger running off AC, and then for your infrequent solar needs, buy a good one you can rely on, but as this will rarely be the charging source, you probably do not need to worry as much about it. If solar was your primary charging source, then I would be putting more money into the solar charger.

AGM are nice as a maintenance free technology, but if you are willing to take the time to maintain your batteries, flooded are cheaper for the same capacity and can give very long life.

 

[SemiMan]

I use AGM SLA batteries because in my situation I could not find a safe way to deal with off gassing. IMO they are better for emergencies as they are LSD and require less attention than flooded batteries.

I always remind people that even AGM batteries should be vented. If your charge controller goes into a fault condition, an AGM battery can dump out a ton of gas too.

Semiman