Foursevens Preon P0

kaichu dento

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...heavyer than alu...
In the case of the Ao, it would have to float to be lighter than this one, the titanium is so thin. Feels like a feather - actually reminds me of an ARC-P, except there's two levels.

Fantastic work light - I used it tonight cutting in some new outlets and it beat the Haiku and V10-R Ti hands down for up close working light.
 

jorn

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I know how extreme thin the preons are. Would not be possible to make in alu. Weight is no issue with most aaa sized lights. One of my favorites aaa is made of heavy metal :) (copper). And it feels exellent with the added weight in my hand. But i dont think the ti p0 version has any advantage over the ss version. With that said, i would pick a ti version if i wanted a new preon. Just because its more "exlusive".
 
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kaichu dento

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I think I'm going to get another Ti and a couple SS versions, so I should know pretty soon.

I love the way the SS LD01's felt, but really love this thing and the beam is one of the main reasons, but also the featherweight feel of it.
 

jorn

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Hehe, i can resist the new ti version, for now atleast.. Couldent resist the new ti dqg. The added 10440 support and 10 sek boost to 210 lumens hit me in a soft spot. Bought my dqg nr 4 some weeks ago. Gave it away two days ago as a birtday gift. (Needed a excuse to buy the latest version.) If there are going to be a cheaper dqg in a ss version with the new driver, i plan to buy one and use the driver in a old polished ss p0 shell i got. A shiny, tiny, 210 lumen mule will be hard to beat :)
 

LlF

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wonder if they are creating a Ti line called atom, atom a0, a1, a2
 

yoyoman

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@Jorn - how do you get the light engine out? I was looking at my SS DQG and don't see how to get the LE out.
The new version does look good - 10440 support is nice.
 
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jorn

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Unscrew the pill and pop the light engine out. Just apply some pressure with a pen etc on the led side.
If you got the alu version, it`s the dqg l. Not the same design as the later versions. The preon p0 is similar to the dqg ll tiny and later dqg versions in ss.
 
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yoyoman

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I have the SS - corrected my post. I don't see how to unscrew the pill - don't see little holes to grip with tweezers or a retaining ring pliers.
 

ASheep

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Quick PSA regarding modding the P0: Do not try to reflow the LED in a Preon P0 if you have a cold.

I decided while I was at home sick from uni/work, I'd swap my P0's emitter to a HiCRI XPG. Everything was going well, I had the old LED out, and the new LED on the pads, the solder was just on the verge of flowing. I sneezed. One of those horrible violent sneak-up-on-you kind of sneezes that can only happen when you're sick. I tore the dome off the LED with my tweezers, ripped two chips off the bottom of the board with my soldering iron, and lost one of the resistors that sits next to the LED. The board is pretty much a write off.

If anyone has a P0 board that they don't want because they are using a dqg board, PM me. I'll make sure next time I'm soldering microcircuits, I don't have a cold...

Cheers,
Alex
 

Etsu

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Is the flood the same size on the A0 as the P0, or does the change in LED make a difference?
 

yoyoman

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I'll have to do some white wall hunting tonight to answer that question. My initial impression (without directly comparing the 2) was the optic kept the flood about the same size. I felt the H had more output. I'm expecting longer runtime from the XP-G2, but I'm not going to do a test.

Edit: The beam (flood) are basically the same size due to the optic. The XP-G2 has slightly more lumens, basically the same lux and the tints are close (CW).
 
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LlF

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hello, i need some help, the LED part inside the head is misplaced. now the light is on when I can still see the o ring on the tube. and if I shake it, i can hear the glass lens move...

it happened after I applied some lube. but I never even touch the head unit, all i did was spray some lube on the battery tube and wipe it clean before screw it back together...

i tried to force it back in with a aaa battery+side, but i dont think it moved at all.,although I didn't use too much force i dont want to break it...

what should I do??
 

ASheep

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hello, i need some help, the LED part inside the head is misplaced. now the light is on when I can still see the o ring on the tube. and if I shake it, i can hear the glass lens move...

it happened after I applied some lube. but I never even touch the head unit, all i did was spray some lube on the battery tube and wipe it clean before screw it back together...

i tried to force it back in with a aaa battery+side, but i dont think it moved at all.,although I didn't use too much force i dont want to break it...

what should I do??


The emitter board screws into the head. To tighten it you'll need a very small set of needle nose pliers/modelling tweezers, or some very small split ring pliers. There are two very small notches in the edge of the board that you can use to screw the pill back in.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Alex
 

LlF

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thank you thank you!!!

now knowing how it's assembled, I will have to be more mindful about not getting it wet

thank you~~~
 

4sevens

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wonder if they are creating a Ti line called atom, atom a0, a1, a2
Atom yes. Ti, no. The demand for ti lights isn't enough plus the price increase reduces our market size and becomes less competitive.

The A0-Ti is a limited run and we will most likely not make any more after this run.
 

joelbnyc

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I still love my p0, it's my edc keychain light. I had a dqg tiny iv AAA which was brighter and nice neutral xpg2, but the preon p0 had better build quality, the smooth brushed steel body is perfect.

The dqg ti ii does look nice tho, and the 10440 option is pretty cool.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
 
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