GatLight V3 - Carbon Fiber / Titanium with Cree XR-E

[mobile1]

A note to everyone who has a GatLight

We finally found the best solution regarding lubrication of the knob. For those who ordered first they got their GatLights with a very unique special ORING lubrication.. intended to make the knob operation easier.

Unfortunately it turned out to be the worst lubricant you can think off, it hardens after a while (which we didn't notice since we tested it right after we put it on) so then when it is hard it is very hard to turn and it turns non conductive. Of course non of that was written on the label... according to the label it is the perfect ORing lubricant... but quite honestly it sucks even for that.

So those who got that lubricant on their lights we suggested to clean the threads and completely remove that lubricant.

However we still wanted a lubricant to work with the ORing and get maximum conductivity on the threads - even though the threads don't need a lubricant because the knob thread is a self lubricating alloy. However we purchased the most conductive lubricant you can find - it basically is ground up silver... and costs a FORTUNE. So we decided to also put that lubricant onto the threads - we figured even though its not needed it can't hurt. The result was it worked... so we shipped the next batch out containing that silver lubricant.

However we than found out that the IDEAL solution is to NOT put any lubricant onto the threads, and just put a little bit of the silver (or any other lubricant) onto the ORing but none onto the threads. For some reason it works the best... very smooth operation.

So if you got your GatLight with one of these lubricants on the threads if you remove the lubricant from the threads it improves the function. The best way to remove the lubricants from the threads I found is to take a paper tissue, remove the knob and the ORing on the knob... than put the tissue around your finger and put the finger nail into thread - at the end of it. Than rotate the thread so your fingernail (with the tissue) moves from the end of the thread - where the battery makes contact to the beginning of the thread. Repeat this process a couple of times. Than wipe off the threads on the light. Than screw in the knob again and out and re-clean the threads with the fingernail technique. Also clean the lubrication in the grove where the ORing goes. Than put a little bit of lubrication (either the silver stuff if your gat came with that - or your own one - don't use the clear lubricant of the first batch Gats) onto the ORing and make sure none of it gets onto the threads. Than put the knob back in and your Gat will work like a champ.... especially if you do this with a first batch light it's a major difference.

Again sorry for us not figuring this out earlier... or better not testing that ORing Lubricant - However we're glad that this is fairly easy to do.

 

[Cactus]

Another lubricant called NanoLube by StClaire anti friction has been used by a few Gatlight owners with success,
comment by Nein166 :
This stuff is so good, I got the oiler pen and the first thing I did was fix up my Gatlight V3. Mine came with too much o-ring lube on the threads. The Nanolube helped get it off and replaced the goopy mess. Worked great on all the other lights too.

NanoLube by StClaire can be found at www.nanolube.com/Products.html

A note to everyone who has a GatLight

We finally found the best solution regarding lubrication of the knob. For those who ordered first they got their GatLights with a very unique special ORING lubrication.. intended to make the knob operation easier.

Unfortunately it turned out to be the worst lubricant you can think off, it hardens after a while (which we didn't notice since we tested it right after we put it on) so then when it is hard it is very hard to turn and it turns non conductive. Of course non of that was written on the label... according to the label it is the perfect ORing lubricant... but quite honestly it sucks even for that.

So those who got that lubricant on their lights we suggested to clean the threads and completely remove that lubricant.

However we still wanted a lubricant to work with the ORing and get maximum conductivity on the threads - even though the threads don't need a lubricant because the knob thread is a self lubricating alloy. However we purchased the most conductive lubricant you can find - it basically is ground up silver... and costs a FORTUNE. So we decided to also put that lubricant onto the threads - we figured even though its not needed it can't hurt. The result was it worked... so we shipped the next batch out containing that silver lubricant.

However we than found out that the IDEAL solution is to NOT put any lubricant onto the threads, and just put a little bit of the silver (or any other lubricant) onto the ORing but none onto the threads. For some reason it works the best... very smooth operation.

So if you got your GatLight with one of these lubricants on the threads if you remove the lubricant from the threads it improves the function. The best way to remove the lubricants from the threads I found is to take a paper tissue, remove the knob and the ORing on the knob... than put the tissue around your finger and put the finger nail into thread - at the end of it. Than rotate the thread so your fingernail (with the tissue) moves from the end of the thread - where the battery makes contact to the beginning of the thread. Repeat this process a couple of times. Than wipe off the threads on the light. Than screw in the knob again and out and re-clean the threads with the fingernail technique. Also clean the lubrication in the grove where the ORing goes. Than put a little bit of lubrication (either the silver stuff if your gat came with that - or your own one - don't use the clear lubricant of the first batch Gats) onto the ORing and make sure none of it gets onto the threads. Than put the knob back in and your Gat will work like a champ.... especially if you do this with a first batch light it's a major difference.

Again sorry for us not figuring this out earlier... or better not testing that ORing Lubricant - However we're glad that this is fairly easy to do.

 

[mobile1]

Thanks Christian actually lives about 15min from here.. and I sometimes have lunch with him (what a great guy). I got some nano lube here and I tried it on the V2 to prevent galling on the TI's but it didn't work for that, so I didnt think of trying it here. However since the V3 is not TI on TI but sintered bronze on TI (which is self lubricating and no gallin) I'll give it a try I have some nano lube here..

 

[mobile1]

Hi everyone - I just wanted to let you know that with the recent announcements and more precise definitions on cpf and after discussions with Sasha, we all decided that Kyle and I (Lumencraft) will continue posting in this forum as well. We're glad to put the disagreements and mostly misunderstandings behind us and continue doing what we all do best - built unique flashlights... Thanks to everyone for your support.

 

[Miciobigio]

:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs

GOOD news !

 

[Olaf_S]

Hi at all owner from V3`s with scratches.

For some weeks, my two V3`s came and i was so happy and suprised. Played a little bit and then i take them in my showcase. One day out, and back. Next day out and back,.....

Then read in this thread about scratches and looked at my V3`s. On many of the bars are longitudinal grooves and Scratch. Looks like lengthwise pulled over sharp and edge unpolished in parts.

So sent PM and E-Mail to Walter. And Walter told me wat to do. Take a dremel and very fine sandpaper.

Please don`t understand this as to show you many Scratches.

I´m still happy - now after polishing great bars without any scratches.

I only want to show, that it is easy to do this work.

First i don`t wonted to take the bars out of the light. Never done this before. I`m more a Collecter than a Craftsman.

But Walter PM`d me. You can sent the bars back and get new, if the bars are damaged after my work (thanks for this offer, Walter. Until now, they are unfortunately all good. Thought, can hold the old one, get new parts and then after some time with many new parts -> built a third one. poop now:devil

So i tryed it, bought micromesh sandpaper from 1.500 - 12.000.
Took the bars out of the light. 11 from 12 bars are scratched from the Ti one, and all from the tuxedo. But i you do the work on one - you have to do it at all, to look all same shine.
Tryed 1.500 and nothing happens. poop

Then i thought - can sent the damaged to Walter- try harder things.
I took a Polishing mat / Sharpening mat / Sharpen fiber (dont`t know the right translation). You can use this normaly to Color remove / lacquer remove / wood sharpen.

This was now perfect. With the dremel, these polishing mat and after this with micromesh 1.500 first, was a very good result. I will do this later with 2.400 and then with 4.000

Show you now some photos from scratches,... the polishing mat,...

I do that polishing under/with water.



And know, i have to do the rest of the bars this weekend, because the rest of the familiy was waiting for the finished V3`s:wave:

So i wanted to show, if someone does not dare like me.

Do it, great result, nice work with fun by making this.

Hope you understand my writing. Sometimes needed a computer-programm to translate some words.

Greetings from Germany
Olaf

 

[M.TEX]

Hello Walter could you please check you email on your
website. I have some questions for you.
Thank you. :naughty:

M.TEX

 

[mobile1]

Thanks for the detailed instructions Olaf... and boy your marks seem pretty rough.

I got the same sponge-type-sandpaper here that looks like yours.. except I didnt' know what type it is exactly but I am sure it's the one you got... and it works great.. it's also possible to remove tiny marks (which are from the machines to hold on to a bar when drilling the holes on each side) without even doing the dremel thing... also it produces the same finish as the other bars. Now with your size marks... I think the best way was what you did.
Anyway it's kind of fun taking the light apart....

 

[chakrawal]

Should I use 3.0V RCR123 protected or 3.7V? will the 3V protected be as bright as 3.7V. What about the primary? Still can not decide which battery to use.

 

[mobile1]

Well officially we spec the light to be used with primary lithiums since we can't guarantee that customers use protected RCR123s with them. Also some manufacturers claim they have protected batteries while in fact they are not (an MFG tried to do this to us and we know of others). Since the battery can explode if you use a non protected one, that is just too much liability. Now in case you decide to disregard that advice and if you are certain that you have a protected cell and are willing to take the risk... than here is the skinny.
Generally 3V and 3.6V RCR123s work. From a technical point of view, using a 3.6V makes more sense - since as I understand it, the 3V cells are 3.6V cells with a circuit board that lower the voltage to 3V. If you put a cell like that into our light the voltage gets again transformed to whatever voltage the LED needs. Every transformation costs efficiency, going with 3.6V gives you a longer battery life. Also the buck boost chip we use is slightly more efficient at higher voltages, so protected 3.6V RCR123s are the way to go if you want rechargeable. And one more thing the GatLight V3 is draining batteries down to 1.5V - which is death zone for rechargeables. So when using rechargeables recharge them before they are fully depleted, otherwise their life will be significantly shorter.

 

[mobile1]

By the way here is a thread with a prototype of our latest creation
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/173723

 

[AndyTiedye]

I am very glad you will be staying around CPF.

 

[Shurock]

Hi:

I love my V3 Tuxedo, but I was wondering why we have to polish the scratches on the bars ourselves? This thread is now too long to read through to find out, so thanks in advance for addressing this.

Patrick

 

[chakrawal]

What about the beamshots compare to P2D Rebel100?

 

[mobile1]

Hi:

I love my V3 Tuxedo, but I was wondering why we have to polish the scratches on the bars ourselves? This thread is now too long to read through to find out, so thanks in advance for addressing this.

Patrick

Well if you have some marks, it's simply easier and cheaper if I send you some sandpaper and you get them out (you can get them out without removing the bars) yourself - it only takes a couple min. rather than sending the light back and forth... we can do it but I think its much easier to just send it out to you. Also the sandpaper gets you the same finish as the other bars... so no need to polish them all.

 

[Bullzaye]

Hi:

I love my V3 Tuxedo, but I was wondering why we have to polish the scratches on the bars ourselves? This thread is now too long to read through to find out, so thanks in advance for addressing this.

Patrick

Well, I could be wrong...and I hate to attempt to explain what I think someone else was trying to say, 'cuz I usually get it all screwed up and end up looking like a real doofus.........but...I think Shurock's question was more along the lines of, "What happened during the manufacturing/inspection of the V.3 Gatlights that they were shipped with scratches on the bars?"
If that wasn't what he was trying to ask...I guess I will. No offense intended, and for the record...neither of my V.3 Gatlights had any scratches that I could see. They're great lights, and I love the smooth brightness adjustment. A huge improvement over the V.2.
Tim

 

[Stillphoto]

Silly question, but couldnt one just unscrew, rotate bars so scratches face inward, and rescrew? Just an idea.

 

[Unforgiven]

Continued here.