11tonytiger
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2012
- Messages
- 24
You get what you pay for ....cheap nationality edited out flashlights are not worth the small amount of money you spend.
T
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Have you arrived at any conclusions after purchasing the lights you now own, traded,
- Thread starter cland72
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moldyoldy
Flashlight Enthusiast
I finally gave up on a SWM V10R - down the road.
Why? the high-quality system was operable with one hand, the variable ring worked smoothly, the highest output was available with a "click", but the ring moved too easily and often the setting/output seemed to change by itself. Furthermore, the run-time is nebulous with a fully variable setting. Also, the ocassional high output whenever the light came close to a radio speaker (magnet) was irritating.
Why? When I use my lights, if they are not tail-standing, I very often change the light output. For a variable ring system, that means my fingers are resting on the ring during use. Unfortunately my fingers inadvertently pressure the ring to one side or the other unless the ring movement is more restricted. Even w/in the SWM system, the V60 ring has more damping/viscous movement than the V10. Unfortunately to achieve the highest output with the V60, I have to rotate thru the lowest levels - which gives plenty of warning to whatever I am trying to pick up in the woods. I would strongly prefer that the highest output is available instantly - which the V10 does provide. eh, na ja, the V60 will probably follow the V10 out the door.
IOW, Tail-standing is a high priority - meaning no "tactical" switches (light is not on a weapon). One-handed operation for on/off or switching multiple levels. An option for the highest output first. Multiple clicks on a tail switch or multiple twists w/in a second or two to reach some other output is maybe OK for me, but that system challenges many of the recipients of gifted lights - which results in them rarely using the other levels. Rotating the head to a fixed position for a simple high or low output seems to be ok (EagleTac). Lights with only two levels (LD-15), although a head-twist, also seem to be OK for gifting. Side-clickies from ZL or Fenix seem to be OK. Not quite sure about multiple buttons on the side for on/off and output level - potential of confusing the buttons.
As always, YMMV. However for me, several months of using several copies of the Zebralight UI has been rewarding. One quibble with the ZL system is the light "touch" to the earlier switches - which then requires a lockout twist on the tail-cap when carrying a ZL in a pocket, and thereby slows down an initial use. The SC600 switch pressure has been OK though.
and I am satisfied that my requirement for about an hour or more run-time on _high_ was correct.
Why? the high-quality system was operable with one hand, the variable ring worked smoothly, the highest output was available with a "click", but the ring moved too easily and often the setting/output seemed to change by itself. Furthermore, the run-time is nebulous with a fully variable setting. Also, the ocassional high output whenever the light came close to a radio speaker (magnet) was irritating.
Why? When I use my lights, if they are not tail-standing, I very often change the light output. For a variable ring system, that means my fingers are resting on the ring during use. Unfortunately my fingers inadvertently pressure the ring to one side or the other unless the ring movement is more restricted. Even w/in the SWM system, the V60 ring has more damping/viscous movement than the V10. Unfortunately to achieve the highest output with the V60, I have to rotate thru the lowest levels - which gives plenty of warning to whatever I am trying to pick up in the woods. I would strongly prefer that the highest output is available instantly - which the V10 does provide. eh, na ja, the V60 will probably follow the V10 out the door.
IOW, Tail-standing is a high priority - meaning no "tactical" switches (light is not on a weapon). One-handed operation for on/off or switching multiple levels. An option for the highest output first. Multiple clicks on a tail switch or multiple twists w/in a second or two to reach some other output is maybe OK for me, but that system challenges many of the recipients of gifted lights - which results in them rarely using the other levels. Rotating the head to a fixed position for a simple high or low output seems to be ok (EagleTac). Lights with only two levels (LD-15), although a head-twist, also seem to be OK for gifting. Side-clickies from ZL or Fenix seem to be OK. Not quite sure about multiple buttons on the side for on/off and output level - potential of confusing the buttons.
As always, YMMV. However for me, several months of using several copies of the Zebralight UI has been rewarding. One quibble with the ZL system is the light "touch" to the earlier switches - which then requires a lockout twist on the tail-cap when carrying a ZL in a pocket, and thereby slows down an initial use. The SC600 switch pressure has been OK though.
and I am satisfied that my requirement for about an hour or more run-time on _high_ was correct.
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Nearing on 40 quality lights (not counting headlamps), I finally realize I should only concentrate on :
1-Practical flashlights / headlamps that I will definitely use - meaning something EDCable with a good UI
2-Be patient and buy only one big wall-of-light thrower a year and that should dwarf the last one I bought or I should wait some more.
3-Upgrade only one or two of my favorite lights per year for either more output or better CRI - preferably both
1-Practical flashlights / headlamps that I will definitely use - meaning something EDCable with a good UI
2-Be patient and buy only one big wall-of-light thrower a year and that should dwarf the last one I bought or I should wait some more.
3-Upgrade only one or two of my favorite lights per year for either more output or better CRI - preferably both
Lite Me Up
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2012
- Messages
- 13
Just like computers, you can update to the most recent versions of leds...but unlike computers, you can expect continued enjoyment out of your collection without worry of them being obsolete...unless of course, you want them to be. :devil: Hmmm...upgrades anyone?
The only conclusions I've really come up with was that you can never have too many lights, as there's always a purpose for one (even if that just means placing one in a spare bedroom of your house, just to have in case the power ever went out).
I'll always spend more on a good light that I know will be worth it for me, something that's a reputable brand and that has been tested by others (youtube vids also help) and then I'm always usually happy with my purchase. The only time I wasn't really happy with my purchase was when Costco was selling the clear tail cap CREE 'tactical' lights, as those would drain your batteries quickly over time. They've since changed them to the solid black tail caps and they don't drain (probably still do, but not as fast) and I was able to return my old ones and get the new ones. But even still, I don't use them as any type of primary or secondary light. Instead, I've given them to my in-laws to use at their house, while I'll still keep 2 flashlights in each car, 2 in each BOB, 1 in my carry bag, 1 on a keychain (same for the wife's bag and keychain), and multiple flashlights around the house ranging from 800 lumen multi-mode throwers to 150 lumen single-mode lights.
I'm always on the look out for the 'latest & greatest' when it comes to lights & technology, so I'm always looking for the next best thing when it comes to EDC size lights that are very compact & small and have an insane amount of light output.
I'll always spend more on a good light that I know will be worth it for me, something that's a reputable brand and that has been tested by others (youtube vids also help) and then I'm always usually happy with my purchase. The only time I wasn't really happy with my purchase was when Costco was selling the clear tail cap CREE 'tactical' lights, as those would drain your batteries quickly over time. They've since changed them to the solid black tail caps and they don't drain (probably still do, but not as fast) and I was able to return my old ones and get the new ones. But even still, I don't use them as any type of primary or secondary light. Instead, I've given them to my in-laws to use at their house, while I'll still keep 2 flashlights in each car, 2 in each BOB, 1 in my carry bag, 1 on a keychain (same for the wife's bag and keychain), and multiple flashlights around the house ranging from 800 lumen multi-mode throwers to 150 lumen single-mode lights.
I'm always on the look out for the 'latest & greatest' when it comes to lights & technology, so I'm always looking for the next best thing when it comes to EDC size lights that are very compact & small and have an insane amount of light output.
ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
Flashlight Enthusiast
The conclusion I just came up with is Never sell your favorite and most cherished top 5 lights even if you need the money for something else. You'll truely regret it.
I just had to purchase two of my grail McGizmo lights back. Thankfully the owner of one I could never replace (a warm flood modded, neutral XP-G modded, Centauri modded LS20) was a very cool guy to sell it back to me. Props to you Robert!
Never sell your grail lights!
I just had to purchase two of my grail McGizmo lights back. Thankfully the owner of one I could never replace (a warm flood modded, neutral XP-G modded, Centauri modded LS20) was a very cool guy to sell it back to me. Props to you Robert!
Never sell your grail lights!
GeoBruin
Flashlight Enthusiast
I think I see the confusion here. I meant show up in the CPF marketplace... as in used light for sale 
fyrstormer
Banned
The one overriding conclusion I arrived at is: I should only buy bare-metal lights. I can't stand the way anodized aluminum looks when the anodizing wears off. Titanium is the best, because it's stronger and lighter than steel, but I do have a couple steel lights too. Bare aluminum is too soft, hence why people anodize it in the first place. The only aluminum lights I have are a couple Fenixes and no-name lights that I treat essentially as throwaway lights. I have a couple Arc6 heads, but they have Ti bezels and Ti battery packs to protect them from drop damage.
I also came to the conclusion that infinitely-variable brightness is worth its weight in gold, when it's done right. Brightness control rings are the ideal EDC user interface for me, because I can have a firefly light or a floodlight on-demand, and I can leave the light on the brightest setting for "tactical use" while still being able to turn the light down before turning it on if blinding myself is a risk.
I also came to the conclusion that infinitely-variable brightness is worth its weight in gold, when it's done right. Brightness control rings are the ideal EDC user interface for me, because I can have a firefly light or a floodlight on-demand, and I can leave the light on the brightest setting for "tactical use" while still being able to turn the light down before turning it on if blinding myself is a risk.
scout24
Flashaholic
Fyrstormer, I'll agree on the infinitely variable UI if done right, I just happen to think the Titan/T1A are the only ones that nail it... One more observation: Despite BIB's screen name, brighter is not necessarily better. I've gravitated back to quality, lower- output lights by today's standards, for my needs. Even with quality RCR's, runtime and beam quality are what does it for me. A respectable number of quality pieces trump the mind-boggling numbers I used to own. Makes the EDC choice easier, as a good friend said to me recently.
One more observation: Despite BIB's screen name, brighter is not necessarily better. I've gravitated back to quality, lower- output lights by today's standards, for my needs. Even with quality RCR's, runtime and beam quality are what does it for me. A respectable number of quality pieces trump the mind-boggling numbers I used to own. Makes the EDC choice easier, as a good friend said to me recently.
fyrstormer
Banned
Yes, now that you mention it, that's another conclusion I reached: quality is far more important than quantity. In all likelihood I wouldn't have nearly as many Gizmos as I have if I hadn't bought them in the first place. (yes, that sounds like Captain Obvious logic, but bear with me.) In my quest to find a replacement for the Arc AAA I lost a few years ago, I had to take into account all of the array of options that had sprung up since I bought that Arc AAA, and in the process of testing a whole lot of lights, I ended up with several that I likely can never replace if I sell, and so I am quite hesitant to sell them. This, despite the fact that I've finally found a pair of lights that I'm quite content to EDC without want for anything they don't offer me.
That is not to say that my Gizmos aren't high-quality, of course -- they definitely are. But if I had half as many lights that I was just as happy with, I could use each of them twice as often and actually enjoy them more.
That is not to say that my Gizmos aren't high-quality, of course -- they definitely are. But if I had half as many lights that I was just as happy with, I could use each of them twice as often and actually enjoy them more.
Conclusions:
Tint (HICRI), beam quality (mostly flood), ultra low lows and a robust host (titanium) in that order.
Does anyone make such a light?
Tint (HICRI), beam quality (mostly flood), ultra low lows and a robust host (titanium) in that order.
Does anyone make such a light?
trevordurden
Newly Enlightened
besides the titanium host, that sounds like a Zebralight.
I only have 3 lights, Fenix E05, LD10 and TK41 but I'm realizing find the right size matters. TK41 is too big, E05 is too small, LD10 seems just right but I've never played with a 18650 light yet.
scout24
Flashaholic
Chaoss- the Shoppe has GDuP drivers that can be requested down as low as 5ma for the low level now- Datiled built me an aleph can based LE a few months ago running an 083 at 5ma, 90ma, and 350ma. It now resides in my Sundrop, and though it could be lower yet, I'm loving the low... Substantially lower than stock. Medium and high are just about the same as they were. I'm sure a similar can could be built for the Nichia 119,which would work in a Haiku, XRU, or a Mule...
One more observation- Few lights polarize people as for or against as the Fenix EO1. You either get it or you don't...
One more observation- Few lights polarize people as for or against as the Fenix EO1. You either get it or you don't...
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archimedes
Flashaholic
So much wisdom in this thread ... :bump:
I look for flashlights that are (1) robust in construction, (2) simple to operate, (3) modular in design, and have (4) excellent tint & color rendering.
HDS / Ra might seem to be an outlier among my favorite brands, but despite all of its myriad features, can be programmed to operate in a rather simple fashion. It is certainly robust and built solidly. And the many interchangeable (vintage) parts form a modular system of sorts. The newer ACME-threaded versions are just now starting to expand into a similar range of mix-and-match options.
Peak, in my opinion, sets the bar for simiplicity, robustness, and modularity. The number of possible choices, options, and combinations of parts seems nearly limitless. Perhaps not the most elegant or sophisticated of torches, but have no doubt that when you twist it on, light will be emitted
(Vintage) SureFire, along with Malkoff and Elzetta, form overlapping constellations of modular parts that can serve nearly any reasonable lighting purpose. All are legendarily tough. And simple. Mode choices often boil down to - do you want "high/low" output ... or not
If budget is not a limiting factor, McGizmo meets these criteria ... in titanium. Simple UI. Titanium is tough. Aleph / E-series compatible modularity.
Just a couple more random thoughts listed below ....
.... Having bunches of features can be just as overrated as having bunches of lumens (the "archimedes peak" redux)
.... Glowing wires still produce pleasing light
[emoji14]
I look for flashlights that are (1) robust in construction, (2) simple to operate, (3) modular in design, and have (4) excellent tint & color rendering.
HDS / Ra might seem to be an outlier among my favorite brands, but despite all of its myriad features, can be programmed to operate in a rather simple fashion. It is certainly robust and built solidly. And the many interchangeable (vintage) parts form a modular system of sorts. The newer ACME-threaded versions are just now starting to expand into a similar range of mix-and-match options.
Peak, in my opinion, sets the bar for simiplicity, robustness, and modularity. The number of possible choices, options, and combinations of parts seems nearly limitless. Perhaps not the most elegant or sophisticated of torches, but have no doubt that when you twist it on, light will be emitted
(Vintage) SureFire, along with Malkoff and Elzetta, form overlapping constellations of modular parts that can serve nearly any reasonable lighting purpose. All are legendarily tough. And simple. Mode choices often boil down to - do you want "high/low" output ... or not
If budget is not a limiting factor, McGizmo meets these criteria ... in titanium. Simple UI. Titanium is tough. Aleph / E-series compatible modularity.
Just a couple more random thoughts listed below ....
.... Having bunches of features can be just as overrated as having bunches of lumens (the "archimedes peak" redux)
.... Glowing wires still produce pleasing light
[emoji14]
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I've come to two conclusions. First is that the expensive 'bomb proof' lights are more of a want then a need and really aren't that much better then mid ranged priced lights. Second is no light is perfect whether the beam is too wide or the light too heavy or whatever but in the end any light beats no light so for me carry-ability and reliability are most important.
QFT. My most often used light is my FourSevens Mini123 HCRI which I purchased three years ago. I have bought and sold dozens of lights in that time, but the Mini stays in my pocket 100% of the time. It may not be the most rugged, or brightest, but it sure does what I ask it to do every darn day.
RetroTechie
Flashlight Enthusiast
Good advice that especially beginning CPF members should take to heart! (too late for the folks that have 100+ lights already
). Shortlist for myself:- Keychain size light (1x AAA) than can go everywhere with me if needed (check).
- A little bigger EDC light for when that isn't enough (1x or 2x AA, maybe a compact 1x 18650 light). Have several lights to choose from in this category.
- Headlamp! Rarely used here, but good to have and very useful for some jobs!
- CPF membership requires to have at least 1 decent thrower for search-and-rescue style work, even if that's never part of my job description. Got that base covered with an Armytek Predator Pro v2.5.
- A wall-of-light lumens blaster. Still undecided where my $ will go on that one, or if there will ever be a 2nd, 3rd etc in that category for me. More likely I'd move on to home lighting projects.
Everything else is collecting, really. I'd rather buy increasingly better / nicer lights in each category and give away or sell older lights, than gather a big collection of lights that rarely see any use.
