Headlight restoration kits

TheIntruder

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I tried to find a citation, but came up empty now. The situation applied to the E38 7-series. Things may have changed, but it seemed like a raw deal for the owners at the time.

Some interesting comments in the rules. But regardless of all the considerations, it still ultimately rests with the owners, and how knowledgeable and willing they are to properly maintain the lighting equipment on their vehicles.

That plays out here, and other forums all the time, and I think it's safe to say it's not a concern for most owners.
 

jeffsf

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As a follow-up, @johnnyb posts inspired me to try one of the 3M kits on my wife's Mini Cooper 2006 stock halogen headlamps. This was already knowing that I could buy a pair of Hella replacements at ~$350 (rather than MINI-branded at about the same price each). Oxidation on her lenses I would call "moderate", no obvious yellowing, but enough that the output and pattern would likely be significantly impacted, especially on the upper surfaces. Here near San Francisco, we have a relatively mild climate in terms of UV exposure (37° N) and effectively no salt from either the roads or the ocean. No sand/dust issues to speak of.

There are two commonly available kits from 3M. The 39008 was ~$18 through a local PepBoys. It includes a 3" drill-mounted backing pad and multiple 500, 800, 1000 disks, a single 3000 Trizact pad, a "fingered" foam buffing pad, and a small packet of rubbing compound. I should have looked first, as masking tape cost me another $3, not counting the gas and time to get to a local auto-paint supplier.

The 39084 kit appears to include a small roll of tape, as well as a second packet of rubbing compound, but nearly impossible to tell what is in there from the photos.

First I tried some cleaning/solvent approaches:
* Multipurpose countertop cleaner (Mrs. Myers) -- no noticeable impact or damage
* Isopropyl alcohol, 91% -- no noticeable impact or damage

Elsewhere on these forums, CRC Brakleen in the red and white can was mentioned. Knowing that if I had any at all it was probably from the days before VOC limitations, I checked the MSDS on Brakleen
* 60-70% acetone
* 5-10% carbon dioxide
* 5-10% hexamethyldisiloxane
* And under 5% each of a few other solvent and things

OK, polishing kit in hand, try acetone. Some some yellow on the rag, good sign. Not much clarity change over most of the lens. Top of the lens (most sun exposure) clouds over immediately. My guess is that the hard-coat was shot up there and it immediately attacked the softer plastic underneath.

As a result, I recommend against trying Brakleen or acetone, certainly on older MINI/BMW lenses

Edit: Checking polycarbonate and solvents, ammonia should likely be avoided as well (present in some glass cleaners). See, for example, https://www.calpaclab.com/polycarbonate-chemical-compatibility-chart/

The 3M kit worked reasonably well. I didn't notice it until after I finished that there were some barely visible (unless the sun hits it right) marks on one lens, in one area, likely from the sanding disk or pad not being absolutely centered on the backing pad. Every rotation of the drill, the "wobble", even if only a mm or so, "goes back" over the direction of movement. The 3000 Trizact result looked like a headlight again with the buffing compound getting rid of the remaining haze. The fingered-foam disk worked well (don't wear black pants when working with buffing compound!) End-to-end, including time to let the drill cool, my arm recover, and a drink, about two hours.

Would I do it again? Let's see in a year how well Aerospace 303 (2 oz. bottle for $7) works in keeping them clear. I'm not touching the lenses on my OE xenon headlights (they've also held up significantly better) until I know the long-term outcome (especially at $750/side to replace).
 
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-Virgil-

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OK, polishing kit in hand, try acetone

Gosh, where was that ever recommended? (nowhere, never...)

I recommend against trying Brakleen or acetone

Acetone is a definite no-go on plastic/polycarbonate, which it attacks furiously, and applying it to your headlamps was a mistake that will probably shorten their lifespan significantly. Watch for crazing as shown here

You looked at the wrong kind of Brakleen. This is the right kind, basically dry-cleaner's fluid in a spray can, and its MSDS is here. Totally different from what you looked at.
 
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Alaric Darconville

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OK, polishing kit in hand, try acetone. Some some yellow on the rag, good sign. Not much clarity change over most of the lens. Top of the lens (most sun exposure) clouds over immediately. My guess is that the hard-coat was shot up there and it immediately attacked the softer plastic underneath.
Acetone and headlamps is a great recipe for needing to buy new headlamps.

You looked at the wrong kind of Brakleen. This is the right kind, basically dry-cleaner's fluid in a spray can

We sure that's not Bra-Kleen (recommended by Maidenform, Cacique, and Victoria's Secret)? :)
 

jeffsf

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It seems that there are several formulations of

(CRC "Brak-Kleen" in the red/white can), applied to paper towel, to quickly and easily remove the oxidized clear coat while leaving the un-oxidized clear coat intact

many of which now are acetone based.

http://www.crcindustries.com/products/crc/crc-brakleen.html

Some are tetrachloroethylene (a.k.a. perchloroethylene, "perc") based, some are acetone based. Both formulations are under both the "Pro" and regular labeling. The formulation is not immediately clear from the labels, at least on the front of the can, except for the part number.

The "50-states" and "non-chlorinated" formulations appear to use acetone.

Tetrachloroethylene was "banned" in California in 2007 and the Brakleen formulations containing it are also restricted in New Jersey as of early 2018.

Like those old-school cans of carb cleaner, MEK, and the like, it seems as though both the "old" Brakleen and that little blue and white can of spot remover are falling into the "irreplaceable" category.

---

Yes, I had already made the decision that I was prepared to replace the headlamps when I decided to try the sand/polish approach. I knew that the moment the hard-coat finish was broken, it was likely to be a never-ending battle against UV and physical degradation of the lenses. If a quick wipe with a clean towel moistened with Brakleen could delay that, I thought it worth trying.

While perhaps not as aggressive as methylene chloride or MEK, tetrachloroethylene still attacks acrylic and polystyrene, should someone following decide to try it.
 
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-Virgil-

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While perhaps not as aggressive as methylene chloride or MEK, tetrachloroethylene still attacks acrylic and polystyrene
Neither of those materials is used in headlamp lenses, which are made out of polycarbonate.
 

markr6

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Jul 16, 2012
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I like JohnnyB's method. I followed it from Chris Fix on youtube. The final step is spraying with UV resistant Rustoleum clear gloss spray. I did it on my 2005 Jeep and it looked great. After 1 year it was still good, but recently sold it so that's all I can say.

I also purchased some Meguiar's Keep Clear Headlight Coating spray. I haven't used it yet because I'm afraid of making things worse. Thought it would be a nice preventative thing to do on newer vehicles though.
[h=1][/h]
 

1pt21

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With some time and patience it's a pretty easy job that you can definitely do at home. Just check out some how to videos and you'll see, just don't try any of the easy way out methods; do the actual wet sanding & polish method.

Again, the most important part to making all of your hard work last is a quality clear coat. A professional 2-stage clear coat is worth every penny and should last as long as you own the car. I recommend this if you need to spray your clear out of a can, it is a true 2-stage that has a little button on the bottom that once depressed will release the 2 parts together. :caution:Be sure to use proper PPE when spraying this stuff:caution:
 
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-Virgil-

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Re: Who/What is TYC? Best Source if I Strike Out with OEM?

I recommend this if you need to spray your clear out of a can

Interesting packaging of a catalyzed (2-part) paint product in a user-friendly aerosol can. Can you point to any long-term results with this stuff in use as a headlamp lens coating?

Another method, using much less toxic materials and with some multi-year checkups behind it, is described here.

But eventually once the lens itself degrades, there is no bringing it back.
 

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