rantanplan
Newly Enlightened
Re: High efficient 5A/9A Buck Converter
Got my 5A driver yesterday ... it works just perfectly. I used it to replace the faulty driver of a Trustfire ST-50 light. Thinking about the cooling of the driver took me a while. The hint using aluminiumoxid mixed with epoxy is probably good, but I had no clue where to get aluminiumoxid quickly without a couple of days "delay"
. So I used the classic approach: Using (lots) of arctic alumina to connect the important parts of the PCB to an aluminiun piece which itself is glued to the light engine. Should be fine with approx. 1.2W loss at the driver. Powered by 2x protected 18650 battery current starts just below 3A, so I´m pretty sure that the SST-50 gets its full 5 amps.
Now I got a fully powered SST-50 light, which is now the brightest light in my collection, but I doubt that it will be more than a seldom used demo light. Too much heat for the small body and compared to a Mag host with 4x XR-E, the lumen advantage of the SST-50 is barely visible ... maybe I should order a top bin SST-50 from Fred or even jump onto the SST-90 train :devil:
Thanks Yitao for this nice driver!
One small suggestion is that you could add the pin positions to the datasheet, or maybe the color code of the wires too. A small sketch of the PCB with the pin locations marked would be helpful. V+ and GND markings are easy to find on the PCB, aside from clear wire colors. But on the output side it took me a while to find the L+ mark and I couldn´t find a L- ... color wires are helpful, but I heard rumors that there are lots of color-blind people out there
Got my 5A driver yesterday ... it works just perfectly. I used it to replace the faulty driver of a Trustfire ST-50 light. Thinking about the cooling of the driver took me a while. The hint using aluminiumoxid mixed with epoxy is probably good, but I had no clue where to get aluminiumoxid quickly without a couple of days "delay"
. So I used the classic approach: Using (lots) of arctic alumina to connect the important parts of the PCB to an aluminiun piece which itself is glued to the light engine. Should be fine with approx. 1.2W loss at the driver. Powered by 2x protected 18650 battery current starts just below 3A, so I´m pretty sure that the SST-50 gets its full 5 amps.Now I got a fully powered SST-50 light, which is now the brightest light in my collection, but I doubt that it will be more than a seldom used demo light. Too much heat for the small body and compared to a Mag host with 4x XR-E, the lumen advantage of the SST-50 is barely visible ... maybe I should order a top bin SST-50 from Fred or even jump onto the SST-90 train :devil:
Thanks Yitao for this nice driver!
One small suggestion is that you could add the pin positions to the datasheet, or maybe the color code of the wires too. A small sketch of the PCB with the pin locations marked would be helpful. V+ and GND markings are easy to find on the PCB, aside from clear wire colors. But on the output side it took me a while to find the L+ mark and I couldn´t find a L- ... color wires are helpful, but I heard rumors that there are lots of color-blind people out there
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How can you let your schoolwork take priority over making a bunch of random crazy flashlight fanatics you know from the internet happy?
