Improving heat sinking on P60 style drop ins.

[jimbo231]

Do I need to remove spring on drop in to wrap with tinfoil and use in solarforce l2p or l2m or do I use with the spring on?

 

[purelite]

I think most leave the spring off but I dont know if you absolutely have to in every case depending on your host and dropin. I never use the spring

 

[tolkaze]

Has anybody injected something like an AB foam between the dropin and the host? I know that it is insulating, but I am thinking that if you let it set, take out the dropin, take out the foam plug, you should have a mould of the space between dropin and host... if it is minimal, use tape, if it is significant, maybe make a metal instert exact shape from the blank??

 

[kosPap]

well sometime somewhere in thios forum someone suggested a special heat transfering foam..that would be the best option

 

[^Gurthang]

Inserting table didn't work.....

 

[jimbo231]

I used a strip of pop can but kept the label on the one side. Is that ok? The heat should still transfer...no?

 

[Minjin]

I used a strip of pop can but kept the label on the one side. Is that ok? The heat should still transfer...no?

It depends on the brand of pop. If it is Coke, especially Coke Zero, you might have some problems. However, if it is Pepsi, you'll be good to go.

Also, from what I understand, if you use a beer can instead of a pop can, it seems to work better.

 

[Tuikku]

Good tip!

I used this method after hunting copper adhesive driving around town for 2 hours... :tired:

I had to use several layers of it.
In the end, drop-in was so tight fitted, that the outer spring could no way push it out there.
I tested the light and seems like the body of my L2 is getting warm but not HOT. I used R5 dropin and 2x 16340.


BTW: should I remove the labeling tape around drop-in before assembling?
Left it there

 

[kosPap]

obviously...they are more insulative than anything else...

You will be gaining little in the overall issue of fixing problematic heatsinking, but one could argue that every little bit helps....

 

[Bladedude]

Flashlight using Nos Aluminum Can works great!

 

[jimbo231]

It depends on the brand of pop. If it is Coke, especially Coke Zero, you might have some problems. However, if it is Pepsi, you'll be good to go.

Also, from what I understand, if you use a beer can instead of a pop can, it seems to work better.

It was coke zero.......what are the odds. Oh well I'll try again with a different can. :sick2:

 

[Bolek]

7 minutes to find this thread then 3 min to cut polish and install it in the light. Very good idea. Thanks Norm

 

[RI Chevy]

What is the trick to heat sinking? Is it taking up the airspace around the drop-in? Am I better off going with copper tape to wrap around a drop-in?

 

[Norm]

Hi Jeff, make the aluminium a firm fit, the spring on the drop in shouldn't be able to push the drop in out ( start off a bit long and you can trim slowly to get a good fit, if you go too short you can easily push a short piece of the can down beside the rest. There were some great thermal images that showed it actually works well (unfortunately lost to the crash). When you've had the aluminium in there it usually holds it self in place even when you take out the drop in although you may have to adjust it for a different drop in the materials are cheap.

I've never tried copper tape, I don't think the adhesive on the tape would help the thermal properties.

Norm

 

[RI Chevy]

I came across this.

JVCC CFL-5CA Copper Foil Tape (Conductive Adhesive) specifications:Adhesive: conductive acrylic How are adhesives different?

• Carrier/Backing: copper foil
• Release Liner: 60# paper
• Thickness: 3.5 mils (without liner) 2.1 mils (adhesive) 1.4 mils (carrier/backing) What is a mil?
• Adhesion: 70 ounces per inch (to stainless steel)
• Tensile Strength: 36 pounds per inch (longitudinal)
• Service/Operating Temperature: up to 311°F
• Elongation: 6%
• Electrical Resistance: 0.003 Ohms/sq. in.
• Certifications: File #130121, UL510, Section 4, MIL-T-47012
• Core: 3" diameter neutral

* specifications are those given by manufacturers and are not tested for accuracy

Silicone based adhesive:

silicone Is great for extreme temperature applications since silicone adhesive can work in continuous operating temperatures from -100°F to 500°F.
They also exhibit good chemical resistance, retain electrical properties, and remove cleanly with little or no residue.

 

[Norm]

I've searched and I can't find the post but someone in the last week post about using flat copper from speaker cross over inductors they don't have the adhesive which is the thing I think may effect heat transfer.

Wish we had those thermal images back

Norm

 

[Bullzeyebill]

RV Chevy, a mil is US is 1/1000 of an inch.

Bill

 

[seahunt]

RI Chevy,
Where available?
Thanks,
Chuck

 

[Norm]

Google Search JVCC CFL-5CA Copper Foil Tape
Norm

 

[RI Chevy]

What Norm said. :thumbsup:

Can anyone shed light on what any of the technical stuff means?

JVCC CFL-5CA Copper Foil Tape (Conductive Adhesive) specifications:Adhesive: conductive acrylic How are adhesives different?

• Carrier/Backing: copper foil
• Release Liner: 60# paper
• Thickness: 3.5 mils (without liner) 2.1 mils (adhesive) 1.4 mils (carrier/backing) What is a mil?
• Adhesion: 70 ounces per inch (to stainless steel)
• Tensile Strength: 36 pounds per inch (longitudinal)
• Service/Operating Temperature: up to 311°F
• Elongation: 6%
• Electrical Resistance: 0.003 Ohms/sq. in.
• Certifications: File #130121, UL510, Section 4, MIL-T-47012
• Core: 3" diameter neutral