Just a MS paint rendering of a possible future light, tell me your thoughts

Ilikeshinythings

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Aluminum as the heat sink and a light resin body should make this torch lighter than most of its competitors. I'm hoping the even distribution of batteries in the body will "balance" the weight, but i'm not worried about it.
 

depusm12

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As a LEO I think that a fast/slow flash mode with the option for locking it in and the ability to use with a traffic cone for directing traffic would be a must and a way to attach lanyard if possible. I prefer design #4
 
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Robban

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If higher temperature is needed, you can go with PEEK; however it comes in one color (grey-ish). The up-side is that it withstands 400F (same as Teflon, but it is stronger- also more expensive), so a heat sink may not even be needed. Remember: every joint is another possible leak...
The heat sink isn't there to protect the flashlight body, it's to stop the emitter from letting out its magic smoke.
 

Ilikeshinythings

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As a LEO I think that a fast/slow flash mode with the option for locking it in and the ability to use with a traffic cone for directing traffic would be a must and a way to attach lanyard if possible. I prefer design #4

I think I would be able to incorporate a flash mode in this light, but I'm not sure about multiple flash modes. I suppose it's possible, so I'll look into it. I think the best intuitive order for changing modes is:

far right - full power
one click counter clockwise - low mode,
two clicks counter clockwise - flashing mode
three clicks counter clockwise - lockout mode

Each "click" of course would re-align the octagonal tailcap switch with the shape of the body.

I have decided that I will include in the box a traffic cone attachment as well as a rubber sleeve to put the light in, kind of like a "skin" if you will. I think this will help people keep their lights in good condition, though I'm not sure if it would negatively affect the heat sinks ability to dissipate heat. Lanyard hole should not be difficult to incorporate in one way or another.
 

Ilikeshinythings

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The best emitter available when the light enters the production stage. If it were available right now either a Rebel or a Q5. Waiting patiently for 300 lumens.
 

Jarl

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I'm liking design 4 more than 3. I really like the bezel- slotted so you know if it's on when you put it head down, but not aggressive looking. It's a good idea to keep this as light as possible, as well.
 

Sgt. LED

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I was all with you, a 3 lumen low, a bright bright high, a beefy heatsink, an 18650 cell, FANTASTIC! Then we start with 3 modes and I am bummed, now we are getting all blinky and flashy.
You just lost me. :ohgeez:
I want a new light not a Fenix with an 18650 cell. Naturally I want Fenix to come up with an 18650 light but let's not have this fellow do it with his light.
It was so close to being just right........................
 

Gunner12

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How about this as a suggestion.

Different versions. Everything the same except the driver/tailcap.

One simple on and off(if needed).
One 2 mode
One 3 mode
One with strobe modes and so on.
 

2sparky

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Just curious but dont most lights use the body to conduct the electricity between the switch and the LE ? Isnt that why your light gets dimmer if the metal threads get oxidized....Last I heard Delrin doesnt conduct electricity if so then you would have to run wires or some other alternative....I maybe wrong but thats why I thought most lights were aluminum and the cheapies were plastic or "delrin" or "zytel" or "nitrolon"
 

depusm12

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Just curious but dont most lights use the body to conduct the electricity between the switch and the LE ? Isnt that why your light gets dimmer if the metal threads get oxidized....Last I heard Delrin doesnt conduct electricity if so then you would have to run wires or some other alternative....I maybe wrong but thats why I thought most lights were aluminum and the cheapies were plastic or "delrin" or "zytel" or "nitrolon"


The Pelican 7060 led the body is Zytel or some other polymer it has a metal heat sink for the led and it was designed and manufactured for a major police department (LAPD).
 

Ilikeshinythings

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Some lights do use the body to conduct electricity but it's not a necessesity.

On another note, after discussing some things with a fellow CPFer, I've considered putting all the circuitry in the tailcap, thus, if you want different modes down the road all you need to do is order a new tailcap.

Also, I'm going to experiment with making a metal "slug" that will screw into the heatsink. For removal all it would require is that the head of the light be unscrewed and a pair of tweezers. This slug will be made of copper and should provide enough heat dissipation to the aluminum heatsink.

I will have some CAD drawings as well as some 3D video animations of the light functioning and being put together piece by piece in the next month or so.

Thanks for taking interest folks.
 

Ilikeshinythings

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Thanks Depusm. I know it's amateur but I have close to no skill and Microsoft paint is a pretty limited program so It took me my whole MIS class session to finish.

I'm still considering what kind of texture, if any, I should use. There are materials that are naturally rubbery feeling in texture that are actually hard plastic. I'm not sure exactly what "Delrin" looks like, but there are many different kinds of polymers out there, so i'm totally open to suggestions for other materials. Carbon fiber would look cool but machining it would not be easy and I don't think carbon fiber works well with threading. I'm also open to suggestions on texturing.

Thanks for contributing to my thread. I've learned alot so far.
 

Ilikeshinythings

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As I mentioned before, I'm gaining cues from a lot of other lights, and one of my favorite lights out there is the Streamlight Scorpion. I really like its rubberized body, though the tailcap clickie design could be a little better. I like how I can take it out of my pockets when its freezing outside and not play "hot potato" with it til it warms up. I definitely wouldn't be against rubberized.
 
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