L11C

[chuckhov]

"The big problem here is that the lazy and/or uncaring people..."

I love it when people speak the truth!

Fix your website, SB!

-Chuck

 

[ronniepudding]

Just got my L11C today. I ordered mine before reading the information here about the LED being 5000K instead of 4500K, so I was expecting 4500K. However, with the testing I've done so far indoors, I'm quite satisfied with the color quality of the light.

I understand why TwistedRaven is slightly dissatisfied with his L11C since his purpose in buying the light was to achieve a very specific tint... but for anyone who's buying one of these as their first high-CRI or even their first neutral white emitter, L3 Illumination's flashlights with N219 have a very good reputation for tint, and have been top-notch in my experience. I've often seen the L10 used as a reference tint when comparing beamshots, etc. with other lights on this forum. I recall when I got my first Nichia 219A light (Xeno E03), it was a eureka moment for me, and I still favor lights with 219A & 219B emitters over all others.

The only possible issue I have with my example is that the LED is a little off-center. I'm not sure how much of that is expected with these, ... I guess it's not such an issue with a floody, textured reflector LED light, but it bothers me OCD a bit. It's a shame that SB has some misinformation on their website, but aside from that the ordering was easy and the shipping was quick.

I've have a couple of L3 Illumination lights with mildly off-center emitters too, and I can't see any impact to the beam profile/quality at all on mine, so I didn't worry about it. If the beam WAS bad on your sample, I'd say send it back. I've purchased a number of lights from SB, and have found them good to deal with. In the end, these are relatively low budget lights, so the build quality is not perfect and the switch feel is not impeccable. However, I have found the L08, L10, and L10C reliable and good to use, -- and since they are inexpensive to replace, I find myself using and carrying them often.

 

[Gerardn3]

I understand why TwistedRaven is slightly dissatisfied with his L11C since his purpose in buying the light was to achieve a very specific tint... but for anyone who's buying one of these as their first high-CRI or even their first neutral white emitter, L3 Illumination's flashlights with N219 have a very good reputation for tint, and have been top-notch in my experience. I've often seen the L10 used as a reference tint when comparing beamshots, etc. with other lights on this forum. I recall when I got my first Nichia 219A light (Xeno E03), it was a eureka moment for me, and I still favor lights with 219A & 219B emitters over all others.

In practice, I don't think 5000K versus 4500K would have made much of a difference for my usage, but the specs on the product page should definitely be corrected. The light quality of this Nichia makes me dream of having a thrower with a 3500K version for outdoor use. Together, a flashlight like that plus the L11C would probably cover all of my flashlight uses. While I'm at it, I'd like some household LEDs with the same kind of quality, but that's another matter... I've definitely developed a craving for more Nichia.

I've have a couple of L3 Illumination lights with mildly off-center emitters too, and I can't see any impact to the beam profile/quality at all on mine, so I didn't worry about it.

I'll have to make sure it's not impacting the beam quality, but if the beam is fine then I'll just have to keep my OCD in check and enjoy. Sometimes I feel jealous of those who can just use a poorly tinted 8000K LED flashlight with a spastic beam pattern and not even think twice about it as long as they can see something, but at least this forum shows I'm not all alone in my obsessions...

 

[Crazyeddiethefirst]

Has anyone called SB to point out the problem?I would be a little slower to call someone lazy if they are not even aware of it. They have always provided excellent service, and are one of a handful that carry neutral to warm tints.

 

[Amelia]

I was wondering how much temperature/CCT variability there is with the 219B... especially when comparing different batches. I only have one of them (in an L10C), so I can't do a comparison myself, -- but since you have an L10C and an L11C, do you see any tint difference between the two of them?

(sorry if you already posted this and I missed it)

As of my L11C purchase, I now have 8 lights with Nichia 219B emitters. I've done side-by-side comparisons, and they ALL look identical to me, sort of a light grayish-tan tint with the slightest hint of orange in the corona. Nichia 219B seems to be a super consistent or really well binned part.

 

[jake25]

The L08, L10, L10c and L11c Nichia models have always and will always be 4500k. The only difference is between A and B, if the website states A we have a mix of both A and B from old and new stock. The L11c is strictly 4500k Nichia 219B. I have no clue where speculation of 5000k comes from :shrug:. -Jason SBF

 

[markr6]

The L08, L10, L10c and L11c Nichia models have always and will always be 4500k. The only difference is between A and B, if the website states A we have a mix of both A and B from old and new stock. The L11c is strictly 4500k Nichia 219B. I have no clue where speculation of 5000k comes from :shrug:. -Jason SBF

Wow, I'm really surprised by this. Both my L10s and L10C tints were completely different. Both nice though.

I remember when the 5000K talk started, but not sure what specific thread. That rumor sure gained traction!

 

[Amelia]

The L08, L10, L10c and L11c Nichia models have always and will always be 4500k. The only difference is between A and B, if the website states A we have a mix of both A and B from old and new stock. The L11c is strictly 4500k Nichia 219B. I have no clue where speculation of 5000k comes from :shrug:. -Jason SBF

Thank you for the clarification. According to the Nichia datasheet, the emitter listed for the L11C is specified as falling into the 4260K-4775K range, which would make the average sample probably somewhere around 4500K as you state. My own comparisons with several other lights in this temp. range lead me to believe that your lights are probably toward the upper end of this range, approaching the 4700K area. There are many, many forum postings about the Nichia 219A vs 219B differences, and several variants (yours apparently not among them) of the 219B emitter that are spec'ed at 5000K. Who knows how the 5000K figure started getting bantered around in the whole mix, I for one stand corrected regarding that figure and will stop posting it in the future.

Please accept my partial apology for the "lazy and/or uncaring" comment - it was made because many forum members of this, and the "other" flashlight forum have apparently contacted you in the past (including a close friend of mine who spoke with you on the phone personally) with you conveying the fact that L3 Illumination had, indeed, moved over to the 219B emitter long ago. This fact was never put up on your website, until the L11C became available, nor the fact that there is "old stock" in the mix with 219A emitters. This has caused a lot of confusion about these lights. I know this is not something that anyone other than overly tint snobbish folks who frequent flashlight forums would even care about, but it is, admittedly, an issue that should have been addressed by you and/or your website designer right at the start of emitter changeover. The fact that you read what is posted here, and took the time to respond to it does show, on the otherhand, that you are definitely not lazy or uncaring... so for that I apologize and thank you for clarifying details of your company's flashlight offerings. Well done!

Just one last thing - if you are reading this... is L3 Illumination planning to ship you any more L10 twisty 4-mode Nichia 219B lights any time soon? I'd like a few more!

 

[chuckhov]

I have a Rayus C01 AAA, with a emitter that was reputed to be initially a N219 4500k, but then Rayus found out that it was Not. - It was actually 5,000k, and 83 CRI.

It seems (IIRC), that Nichia had made a mistake and supplied the wrong part.

I used to have a link for this, but that was a while ago... Anyone know what I am talking about?

Still - I see it as a Very Nice, Somewhat Cool, Neutral.

Thanks,
-Chuck

 

[Amelia]

I have a Rayus C01 AAA, with a emitter that was reputed to be initially a N219 4500k, but then Rayus found out that it was Not. - It was actually 5,000k, and 83 CRI.

It seems (IIRC), that Nichia had made a mistake and supplied the wrong part.

I used to have a link for this, but that was a while ago... Anyone know what I am talking about?

Still - I see it as a Very Nice, Somewhat Cool, Neutral.

Thanks,
-Chuck

One of the problems here is that the Nichia 219B is not a single part, but a whole family of different parts with variations in color temperature, brightness, and CRI rating (depending on the part number suffix when ordered). This causes a lot of confusion for someone who doesn't know this, and just wants a "Nichia 219" light.

 

[twistedraven]

Thanks for confirmation Jason. It really does seem like a 4500k light. Nice and peachy, but very close to white, if slightly on the warm side. It really is quite a nice tint.

In practice, I don't think 5000K versus 4500K would have made much of a difference for my usage, but the specs on the product page should definitely be corrected. The light quality of this Nichia makes me dream of having a thrower with a 3500K version for outdoor use. Together, a flashlight like that plus the L11C would probably cover all of my flashlight uses. While I'm at it, I'd like some household LEDs with the same kind of quality, but that's another matter... I've definitely developed a craving for more Nichia.

Sounds like maybe you want the Eagletac MX25LC3 Nichia 4500k.

 

[herbicide]

I knocked mine off my desk the other day, and noticed that the boot has split, right on the edge, even though that's the squishiest part of the button.

Probably due to a combination of the tail scalloping and the softness of the rubber.

So, er, try not to be as unlucky as me.

 

[markr6]

Hmmm, I never liked that switch cover OR the switch itself.

 

[ronniepudding]

So, er, try not to be as unlucky as me.

Have you inquired with SB to see if they'll sell you a spare boot cover?

 

[herbicide]

Not yet. I'll drop them an email tomorrow.

Edit, 17th June -

No date was given, but they will be getting some tailcap boots from the factory.

 

[turkeylord]

My secret hope is to swap the L08 head innards into the Maratac

Might be a little late as it looks like Illumn sold out of them, but I did swap a 219 Preon pill into my Maratac CU AAA. :naughty:

Details: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...aratac-AAA-quot-Cu-quot&p=4445257#post4445257

 

[markr6]

Can anyone comment on the L10C switch vs the L11C? I found the L10C to be very loud and cheap feeling. I know that's just my opinion but I wondered if anyone noticed a difference between the models.

 

[twistedraven]

I don't have the L10C, but the switch on my L11C is loudish and cheapish feeling to me. The biggest thing they could have done to improve the feel is make it so the actual button underneath the rubber boot is wider, but instead it's slim, and only provides firm resistance on the center of the boot.

That is my only complaint with the light. Everything else (size, finish, led, cost, performance, ui, etc) Are all excellent.

 

[jon_slider]

maybe a McClicky upgrade?

 

[markr6]

I wasn't 100% happy with my L11C when I had it, but now I'm considering giving it another shot.

I'd sure like to see the Nichia 219C in this for a little extra output!