LiteFlux LF3XT Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, and more!

[StandardBattery]

... I have heard of very few issues with the LF3XT. ... I believe that LiteFlux learned from their tap off problem with the early LF5XTs, and have been gotten it right with the first run this time.

I just said I'm a little worried. Something to watch. They do seem to be one of the best constructed smaller EDC lights for sure. Definitely the LF3-XT is the their best yet, they've made a number of small but great improvements. I like mine very much. I even like the LF5-XT for an AA light.

 

[matrixshaman]

Good point - and exactly why I didn't think of mentioning it here, since I got used to it on the LF5XT. But I did indeed stumble around that one with the LF5XT until I checked the simplified manual posted here on CPF.


Thanks matrixshaman - if you have a direct link to the post, I'd be happy to add it to my review text (I tend to like manuals ).

Here is the direct link to the Revised LF3XT manual which is on Google docs.

If anyone has any suggestions for revisions I can add more - preferably a paragraph made ready to insert with a suggestion on exactly where to put it in the manual. I'm wondering now if it would be good to add BabyDoc's info above on the 3c exit command in his tips section of the manual -- or would there be a good place within the manual? Unfortunately I have a very important project going that won't be done for several months yet so I have to pull back from anything that has any potential to take much time otherwise I'd be giving this a lot more attention. I consider the LF3XT to be not only one of my best lights but probably the most 'fun' light I have. But 'fun' is not on the agenda for several months - this is a 7 day a week job

I'll also contact Budman to see if it's okay to put a link to his flowchart or to his message thread about it in the manual.

 

[LED Cool]

At the end of the day, this is why I like relying on quantitative data - the throw, output, and runtime data are what they are. Although even here, everyone needs to keep in mind we generally talking n=1 sample.

:wave:

hello selfbuilt,
great review as always!
sorry about the failure of the first LF3XT.
an additional 2 units of LF3XT have been shipped to you on last Friday, 9th January. these will make the sample rate n=3 and hopefully will provide a clearer/accurate picture of the quantitative data of LF3XT. i.e. provided you have the time and resources to spare.

thanks.
khoo

 

[selfbuilt]

an additional 2 units of LF3XT have been shipped to you on last Friday, 9th January. these will make the sample rate n=3 and hopefully will provide a clearer/accurate picture of the quantitative data of LF3XT. i.e. provided you have the time and resources to spare.

Thanks Khoo, that's very generous of you.

I will be happy do matching RCR and CR123A runtimes on the 2 replacements units, so as to increase the sample size results here.

FYI, at Khoo's request via e-mail, I will return the malfunctioning unit to him once testing is complete. They want to investigate the source of the problem on my first sample, which I think is an excellent idea. :thumbsup:

 

[DM51]

Some posts have been removed from this thread to form a new one:

Liteflux LF3XT programming, info and questions

Please let's keep this thread on topic.

 

[BabyDoc]

......
UPDATE: Seems like the battery sleeve can come out - you need to unscrew it from the clicky switch by sticking a fine pair of tweezers down the barrel into the holes behind the spring. I haven't tried removing mine, but I was able to tighten it - which seems to have helped somewhat with the "soft" feel of the switch......

SelfBuilt, can you be a bit more specific as to what tightening means? I thought the tube was held in place by an O-ring and that's why it wasn't easily removable. If it IS held in place by an O-ring, and the tube isn't threaded into the end of the light, what does tightening really mean? (I would intuitively think that if the tube was tightend towards the switch that it would decrease the travel of the switch and make the switch seem less definite in its action.)

Finally if it is really threaded in there and it can be tightened, does tightening mean you actually turned the tube clockwise with your tweezers in the hole behind the spring? Would a paper clip work as well?

 

[madi05]

No ,, the way u remove it or tighten it is to remove the switch plate, simply stick a screwdriver in the lanyard hole and unscrew it ,, once off the whole brass tube will slide right out ,, the tube has no threads on it so tightening it like u stated shouldnt matter imo

maybe u actually tightened the switchplate and didnt realize it from the inside, lol

i took my completely apart and will show some pics soon as i get mine back from being pvd coated, since i love this one so much , i have done some modifications ,, like i felt the crenulated bezel was so shallow it was not usefull , so i removed them, an like it even better now , lol and it makes it just a bit smaller for edcing imo,, and i also modified the switch plate a bit to be a hair thinner as well and now sharp edges

hope this helps
madi05

 

[BabyDoc]

No ,, the way u remove it or tighten it is to remove the switch plate, simply stick a screwdriver in the lanyard hole and unscrew it ,, once off the whole brass tube will slide right out ,, the tube has no threads on it so tightening it like u stated shouldnt matter imo

maybe u actually tightened the switchplate and didnt realize it from the inside, lol

i took my completely apart and will show some pics soon as i get mine back from being pvd coated, since i love this one so much , i have done some modifications ,, like i felt the crenulated bezel was so shallow it was not usefull , so i removed them, an like it even better now , lol and it makes it just a bit smaller for edcing imo,, and i also modified the switch plate a bit to be a hair thinner as well and now sharp edges

hope this helps
madi05

Joe, I am sure you are right about removing the cross ring surrounding the button, then the switch, and then the O-ring that holds the sleeve in place, but Selfbuilt clearly stated he didn't take the switch apart or remove the sleeve, but was somehow able to tighten the sleeve from the inside of the the tube.
I can't picture this doing anything but turning the sleeve. I didn't think the sleeve was threaded. Or is it?

 

[Flying Turtle]

i took my completely apart and will show some pics soon as i get mine back from being pvd coated, since i love this one so much , i have done some modifications ,, like i felt the crenulated bezel was so shallow it was not usefull , so i removed them, an like it even better now , lol and it makes it just a bit smaller for edcing imo,, and i also modified the switch plate a bit to be a hair thinner as well and now sharp edges

hope this helps
madi05

Can't wait to see those pics. Sounds like some serious customizing. :twothumbs

Geoff

 

[selfbuilt]

SelfBuilt, can you be a bit more specific as to what tightening means?

No ,, the way u remove it or tighten it is to remove the switch plate, simply stick a screwdriver in the lanyard hole and unscrew it ,, once off the whole brass tube will slide right out ,, the tube has no threads on it so tightening it like u stated shouldnt matter imo

Yeah, my bad - madi is right, turning the battery sleeve didn't make a difference in the switch feel after all.

I've diassembed from the tailcap plate as madi described, and here's what I found:

The switch can also be disassembled from the tail retaining plate, using a pair of fine tweezers or snap-ring pliers. Here's what you'll find inside:

I think the "soft" issue I'm having may be from too much lube around the o-ring of the button cap, preventing the small spring that keeps the resistance between the button cap and the actual switch from "bouncing" back into shape after a button press. I'll have to play with it more to know for sure - at any rate, good to know you can access everything if you need to.

 

[madi05]

glad u see what i see now, lol i thought maybe being im a noob in flashlights i may have overstepped my boundaries, lol

do u see the little spring that goes in between the the switch and the switchcap ?,, just my watchsmith intuitions would tell me if someone has a mooshy clicker or it isnt clicking up fast enough ,, then i would think just using some tweezer and stretch that small spring just a bit would give it more zip or snap back and shouldn't hurt anything , imo

and i to saw alot of grease around my oring as well, and same goes for watches and grease,, less is better than more , lol

i feel the build construction on my unit is excellent , i cant wait to show u guys what i did to mine , it will be a week or so , i sent it out today to be pvd coated,, after shortening the overall dimensions of the light i think it will be even more comforatable in my pocket now

btw. the tweezers is good to remove the pill to get to the reflector and or remove the glass and also to tighten it

madi05

 

[h2oflyer]

I've stretched both large spiral spring on swich board and small spring under switch button and it feels crisper. Really nice without O-ring , but of course that"s not possible.

Little red switch button has nice tactile feel --O-ring and aluminum cap seem to dampen the feel. I'll use for work tomorrow and see how it feels.I can do another small spring stretch later.

Walter

 

[madi05]

I've stretched both large spiral spring on swich board and small spring under switch button and it feels crisper. Really nice without O-ring , but of course that"s not possible.

Little red switch button has nice tactile feel --O-ring and aluminum cap seem to dampen the feel. I'll use for work tomorrow and see how it feels.I can do another small spring stretch later.

Walter

I had a feeling that would make it click stronger ,, mine wasnt mushy like some mentioned but im going to stretch it a hair anyway when i get my parts back, lol

madi05

 

[h2oflyer]

Some opening up tips: -- I didn't find tweezers or forceps strong enough to remove the pill to clean a few spots off the reflector and inside of lens.Same thing with switch retaining plate inside of tail cap.

I am using a small pair of heavy duty scissors in my model shop to turn these parts. Fits the slots perfect. I have filed the tip ends to small round points. Works good to access into deep recess.

I agree that washing outside of switch has limited value. As reported switch smoothness is gained by removing any excess lube.

IMO the micro switch tactile crispness is not transfered to switch cap because of O ring drag. I'm going to try finding a thinner one without comprimising water resistance.

Thumbs up to Madi and other early posters for showing us how to get into the switch.

Walter

 

[h2oflyer]

I was remiss in not thanking selfbuilt for his excellent pic's of the disassembled parts.

 

[selfbuilt]

IMO the micro switch tactile crispness is not transfered to switch cap because of O ring drag. I'm going to try finding a thinner one without comprimising water resistance.

That's my best guess as well, although removing the extra lube and lengthening the small spring should help.

I'll let you know how my replacement samples feel when they arrive.

 

[Flying Turtle]

Thanks for the additional tips, h2oflyer. I'm sure glad there are folks with more mechanical aptitude than me around here. I'll still probably wait for total failure before attempting a dissection.

Geoff

 

[I came to the light...]

Hi selfbuilt, thanks for the review. I've had mine for a while now, and I'd like to emphasize a few points you made: the build quality is the best I've owned, and the beam is perfectly smooth :twothumbs. I don't have nearly selfbuilt's experience, but that is still saying something.

But I also agree that the switch doesn't feel right at all. I hope they come out with a new mechanism and completely fix the problem.

 

[Flying Turtle]

I really wouldn't say the switch is a problem, at least not mine. It is different than my other lights, but it works just fine. Is it that much different than a Novatac? I think the few times I've clicked and nothing happened is more attributable to what I'll call "lazy click syndrome". A firm sharp press seems to work every time.

Geoff

 

[h2oflyer]

selfbuilt:

I replaced O-ring with spare(which was slightly smaller) and Alum. cap moves freely.I got smooth freeplay(but dead time) untill contact with micro switch.

I am now running without small spring--IMO it's just holding cap away from actual switch.

Cap is resting just above red switch button -- no delay -- will use light this way for a while. Not worried about light activating in my pocket as original spring pressure wasn't that great.

Again I thank you for the disassembly pic's

Walter