M3 Mcclicky not working!!!
- Thread starter felton
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m4a1usr
Enlightened
Hmmm...? A bit more detail would help. Are you using a "McClicky kit" in a Z41? By kit I mean the typical brass McClicky adapter, Switch and aftermarket boot? Next are you using the same cells in each light. Primaries or rechargeables? The cut down threaded portion of the body where the Z41 switch threads on both the M3 and 6P both have the same length. Approx .773 inches. And that allows quite a bit of play since both lights where intended for the lanyard ring to remain attached.
Yes it was the Mcclicky kit in a z41. Other than that ever thing is stock three 123a batteries in the M3 and two 123a's in the 6p. I just bought 3 Mcclicky's and installed 2 of them, I am waiting to fix this problem before I install the 3rd one on an M4. I am using the boot that came with the mcclicky.
Neither Mcclicky works in the M3.
Neither Mcclicky works in the M3.
m4a1usr
Enlightened
That clears some stuff up. Next questions would be what are you driving in the M3? Are you using a MN10 or MN11? Sounds like the 6P is the LED version so your likely driving a KX4 or a P60L? Lastly have you tried the paper clip bypass method of ensuring the volt/current circuit is sound? That's where you take of the tailcap and use a paper clip (or something metal) to complete the circuit from the end of the battery to the light body.
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m4a1usr
Enlightened
Ah ha. Now we're getting somewhere! So are you sure that the cells being used can support the MN11 load? A MN11 uses about 2.5 amps to work properly. If you are using CR123 cells that are down to 2.8 volts you wont be able to get enough out of them to get the lamp to glow dimly. Do you have a way to measure your cells? Or maybe have some known good ones you can swap out? The P60L you have probably draws a whopping .5 or there about amps.
Of course before you do any of the above have you tried to see if the MN11 center spring hasn't collapsed? Try this. With the 3 cells installed push in on the back of last cell in the group. It should compress about 1/8 of an inch. If it barely moves you need to remove the MN11 and using 2 sets of needle nose pliers to extend the spring out a bit. I wouldn't use just one on the end. The spring has one pretty small wire that can easily detach if you exert to much force. Use one to hold the base and the other to make the spring longer.
If that doesn't work do you have another lamp to try? I've had my share of MN10 and similar Surefire lamps that had a broken filament and were not discolored or looking like they had any damage to them but were total junk. Something to think about.
Of course before you do any of the above have you tried to see if the MN11 center spring hasn't collapsed? Try this. With the 3 cells installed push in on the back of last cell in the group. It should compress about 1/8 of an inch. If it barely moves you need to remove the MN11 and using 2 sets of needle nose pliers to extend the spring out a bit. I wouldn't use just one on the end. The spring has one pretty small wire that can easily detach if you exert to much force. Use one to hold the base and the other to make the spring longer.
If that doesn't work do you have another lamp to try? I've had my share of MN10 and similar Surefire lamps that had a broken filament and were not discolored or looking like they had any damage to them but were total junk. Something to think about.
m4a1usr
Enlightened
Well alrighty then. At least you have verified the function of the circuit. That in itself speaks volumes. Now as to why the paper clip or tailcap bypass test didn't work is pretty weird? That should have worked since all your doing is putting a direct connection in place of the tailcap. Unless the center spring of the MN11 is touching the sides of the hole where it passes thru and you didn't compress the batteries enough while doing the bypass test? No matter for now. You verified the light functions.
Maybe it's time to go back to even more of the basics? Have you tried removing all of the dirt and grease from the host end and threads on the M3 and do the same to the Z41 innards? I've had a few SolarForce hosts that were no cooperative until I removed all of the "gunk". Even had one that had some anodizing on the edge where the switch makes contact with the body. After I sanded it down it worked perfectly. Hmmm? Maybe a pic might assist.
Maybe it's time to go back to even more of the basics? Have you tried removing all of the dirt and grease from the host end and threads on the M3 and do the same to the Z41 innards? I've had a few SolarForce hosts that were no cooperative until I removed all of the "gunk". Even had one that had some anodizing on the edge where the switch makes contact with the body. After I sanded it down it worked perfectly. Hmmm? Maybe a pic might assist.
m4a1usr
Enlightened
Nothing more than to just follow the process of elimination. Cleaning is probably not required. Interesting that the light works with that much of the Z46 off the body? Have you tired the same test but with a Z41 but with a McClicky? As to your question I can only surmise that its the difference in OAL of the portion that extends into the light. If you take the Z41 twisty innards and hold them alongside a McClicky you can see that the twisty is a bit longer overall. And if the springs in both compress all the way down the twisty will contact the end of the light's body before the McClicky does. It's not much. I just compared them and there is a visible difference. How much? Forgot to measure it but it is noticeable. Maybe .050, maybe .060? Something like that. The ole mk1/mod0 eyeballs just don't work like new anymore.
:sigh:
I just tried screwing the head on while the light was on and it worked. I turned it off and it turns right back on. If I unscrew the tail cap or the head it won't turn back on. Craziest thing I've ever seen. I don't know where to go from here????
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m4a1usr
Enlightened
By any chance have you any other surefire switches? Like maybe a Z48/Z49, Z58/Z59, SW02 or a XM00? Maybe from other lights compatible with the standard bodied surefires?
m4a1usr
Enlightened
I'll break out a M3 and replicate your setup to see what I might discover? None of my M3's or M4's are incan. I've converted all of them to MD10's but I have a box of incan lamps so it's a pretty easy job of reconfiguration. I see in the picture what looks like a big section cut out of the Z41? Is that just perception due to the angle of the pic? The reason I ask is because it appears to show the M3 body in that section. The older Z41's had lock out notch on them. Has the Z41 you are using been modified?
m4a1usr
Enlightened
Well I couldn't duplicate your issue. I tried both an MN10 and MN11 lamp, swapped out the bezel using the early ribbed style (like yours) and the later design Z46. Then tried a Z41 using the twisty innards and a Z41 with a McClicky installed. Then a SW01, a Z48, then a Z59. Even a SolarForce TC with a McClicky. All worked in any/every configuration. And they all seemed to seat against the body in pretty much the same position. This one is a stumper. I could not replicate the issue.
However something occurred to me while rummaging thru my box of tailcaps? Is your tailcap the older style with the innards that just fall out? I tried looking at all the posts to see if that was covered but don't see that question answered. The reason I ask is that older design has a large/thick boot that doesn't fall out like the metal guts do. Matter of fact sometimes it can be a PIA to get out especially if its the real early smooth ones. And if you left in the larger/thicker boot I can see where if you install a McClicky switch and brass retainer, it might compress the switch enough to deform it or press in the plunger to where its non functional. Now I haven't tested that idea but the old boot is not very tall and the above might be possible?
However something occurred to me while rummaging thru my box of tailcaps? Is your tailcap the older style with the innards that just fall out? I tried looking at all the posts to see if that was covered but don't see that question answered. The reason I ask is that older design has a large/thick boot that doesn't fall out like the metal guts do. Matter of fact sometimes it can be a PIA to get out especially if its the real early smooth ones. And if you left in the larger/thicker boot I can see where if you install a McClicky switch and brass retainer, it might compress the switch enough to deform it or press in the plunger to where its non functional. Now I haven't tested that idea but the old boot is not very tall and the above might be possible?
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The innards were really hard to get out, they were held in with an allen screw. I am using the boot that came with the mccklicky. Both my tail caps are acting this way. Both work on my 6p and both will work on the M3 if I put the head on with the light running and then from there on out the mcclicky works as designed until i take it apart again.
I think i got it!!!!!!! Ok so the Mcclicky is pushing up hard on the batteries which in turn pushes up on the bulb enough to make the exterior spring not touch the body of the flashlight. I opened up the bottom loop of the outside spring to make good contact and Viola!!!!! It seems to be working. I am going to pull it apart a couple times just to make sure but I think I am set.
That was it!!!
Thank you so much for your help M4A1. I'm headed to Moses Lake then over to Port Angeles in a couple months. I was born and spent my first 11 years in Port Angeles.
That was it!!!
Thank you so much for your help M4A1. I'm headed to Moses Lake then over to Port Angeles in a couple months. I was born and spent my first 11 years in Port Angeles.
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