MagLite 2C/2D 4D 3W LED drop-in Technical Review

Tiff

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It could probably be made to work, but the first big hurdle is that the Mag LED unit is bigger in diameter than a standard PR bulb, so it won't fit in the unmodified socket of most other lights. Some folks have bored the socket out to accept it, you would have to determine if your light can handle that. The thermal management circuit in the Mag unit SHOULD prevent melting the plastic socket, so once it's in, it will probably work OK.

:crackup: Yep, that's what I did! I modified the opening which was aluminum and got it so it fit. I used tinfoil as a cheap heatsink and wedged it in to keep it in place but the overall gain was not enough to spend the $15 for it so it goes back and I'll run a Nite-Ize in one and a Dorcy in another and find something for my 6 volt. The Dorcy sounds good 45 lumens and the Nite-Ize should give long runtimes. Plus they are cheap enough that I won't feel ripped off if they don't work out too well. I want one as a flood and lower power and maybe a brighter one to provide some extra throw. Since I already own these lights and like using them.
Heat might be an issue with 3 watts as the front is plastic and not glass. :poof:
Be nice if there was a melting smilie.:whistle:
 

Tiff

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I used one sparingly in a 2AA plastic light with a MOP reflector and it was focused ok...

I'm not saying a plastic light is the very best of ideas mind you.

Yes, I know, but these lights have served me well over so many years, at least 10 and I took them overseas when I lived there for 5 years and they just keep working. You can really beat on them and it's a non-issue to these lights. The bulbs I am buying cost more than the light did new. :crazy:
The fixed focus is an issue but the reflectors are set to throw, they are not orange peel or smooth but are like a disco ball and are long rather than square. Really give a good throw even with an Incan.
Tiff
 

Lynx_Arc

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I bought 2 2cell magled dropins from a Target clearance sale long ago for about $7 each. I have a few energizer kids plastic 2AA lights with clicky switches.. forward clicky at that too that I only had to remove a bulb holding spring and drill out the hole in the reflector some and it has a nice very tight beam. I put one in an old 2D rayovac roughneck light that focuses by reaming the bulb assembly out in a drill press and it works nice too. I wish they made more nice 2D plastic LED lights instead of the 5mm ones... why waste a huge D cell on 5mm LEDs in flashlights when they are begging to drive luxeons and crees.
 

Tiff

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I wish they made more nice 2D plastic LED lights instead of the 5mm ones... why waste a huge D cell on 5mm LEDs in flashlights when they are begging to drive luxeons and crees.

I agree, it makes more sense if you carry the weight, you might as well have as much light as you want. Plastic is lighter. I'd take pics of mine but they aren't exciting lights but I really do like them. Also they are non-conductive!
 

Lynx_Arc

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I have one I got that has a dimmer green emitter I need to replace I wonder if these will run better with SSC P4 emitters in them... less heat.
 

Stereodude

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I have one I got that has a dimmer green emitter I need to replace I wonder if these will run better with SSC P4 emitters in them... less heat.
Maybe a little cooler, but they're two times as bright. :D

2D Cell:
mag2ddropinstockxb9.jpg


turns into

mag2ddropinsscmodkn4.jpg



4D Cell:
mag4ddropinstockmopsf9.jpg


turns into

mag4ddropinsscmodfj8.jpg



See more examples of MagLED replacement and how they compare to other lights in my big bounce test review.
 

Lynx_Arc

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yeah looks a lot brighter... I may have to order or trade for some SSC p4s. how much trouble is it to upgrade the LED in these modules?
 

Stereodude

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yeah looks a lot brighter... I may have to order or trade for some SSC p4s. how much trouble is it to upgrade the LED in these modules?
See this thread. It's not too hard, but requires some craftsmanship to fabricate new leads for the SSC. I cut the leads off the Luxeon III and used them over again instead of the making new ones by flattening copper like Cydonia did.
 

CuNim

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Can someone tell me if the 3 cell drop-in will work OK with a 2D?

I'm modding the 3D it's in, so want to buy an incan 2D and stick an LED in that to save me a few pounds.
 

JamisonM

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Can someone tell me if the 3 cell drop-in will work OK with a 2D?

I'm modding the 3D it's in, so want to buy an incan 2D and stick an LED in that to save me a few pounds.
It should work, but it will be only as bright as a 3D maglite with its batteries at 3v total.
 

CuNim

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It should work, but it will be only as bright as a 3D maglite with its batteries at 3v total.

Thanks for that - all I needed to know. Doesn't need to be super bright, it's the runtime I'm after more than anything.
 

JamisonM

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Thanks for that - all I needed to know. Doesn't need to be super bright, it's the runtime I'm after more than anything.
To tell you the truth, if it isn't much more, I'd get another 3D maglite. Here in the states, the difference in price price of a 2D and 3D maglite are only a couple of dollars. If you buy another 3D, you'll get longer runtime and it will be brighter then a 2D.
 

DutchyFelix

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Hello everybody. I have three small questions.
.
I recently bought a 1960's Polish/Russian toy 35mm 'film projector' at a 'second hand store'. For light it used a 6V 18W (motorcycle) bulb.
I want to use it to project 'stills' of some movie trailers I have, as a sort of poster on my bedroom wall. Only visible at night, so no 50W halogen for me... It would double as a (ultracool) nightlight as well. ;) I wanted a lightsource that didn't generate as much heat, to prevent burning my precious film, over a longer period ofcourse. Also the light was too yellow.
.
I installed a 4D Maglite LED 'bulb' and soldered it to a regulated universal power adapter (set to 6V ofcourse), so I could plug it into the wall socket. I don't use any of the original circuitry since that's AC power and for LED, DC is more convenient. ;) The principle works brilliantly. Now for 'finetuning'...
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I noticed that the 'brightness' (newb..sorry) remained the same when I turned down the voltage on the adapter from 6V to 5V and even to 4.5V. It had been running on 6V for about half an hour, so it was quite hot already. When I went down to 3V it did 'dim' a little bit.
.
OK, ttp now:
.
Question 1: Would it help keeping the bulb cooler and the intensity higher for longer if I set the adapter to 4.5V, instead of the 6V the bulb is designed for? I mean: since the light doesn't seem to change, why not use a lower voltage?
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2: Would it help putting the 'cooling paste' computer people use around the 'shell' of the bulb? I've never seen the stuff, but i've heard of it's existence.
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3: Hypothetically: what would happen if I switched the adapter up to 9V, or even 12V (It's max)? A regular bulb would shine briter, but wear more quikly, or just melt instantly, I know. But with LED? Would it increase the amount of light produced without melting, or shortening it's life? Or would it die instantly? It would be a shame if I wrecked it, the LED replacement bulbs cost 35 USD+ over on this side of 'the pond'.
.
Oh, one more thing: are there LED-bulbs that produce conciderably more light then this 3W 6V (4D) Maglite LED? I just bought and installed this one, but who knows...maybe in the future.
.
Regards,

Felix.
 

jabe1

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Firstly, you need to make sure the LED can dissipate heat well. The "bulb" needs to be in contact with a large piece of metal, unless there is a cooling fan.

Next, keep in mind that batteries experience voltage drop, and the 4 cell drop-in will actually be rated at about 4.5 volts ( not 6v as one might expect).

9v or 12v will burn it up.

You can get more Lumens (brightness) from it by changing the LED to an SSC P4. It is simple to do but not necessarily easy. you can find the info here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/166999
 

DutchyFelix

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Thank you Jabe1 for your quick reply!
.
I just saw the result of my labour for the first time last night when it got dark and I think the LED is bright enough as it is now, without extra cooling.
Besides, I just realized I've already spent 10 times more on modifying my 'projector' then it cost to buy... Maybe I should enjoy it for a little while before I start messing with it again. With anamorphotic lens, LED and adapter, I'm now projecting a $150 'Transformers 2' poster on my wall in Cinemascope view :D. (Just the transformers logo, not the shot of Ms. Fox' behind on a motorcycle, that wouldn't be vety subtile, would it?) ;)
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I think I wil attempt the LED replacement in the future though! Seems like a nice way to spend a rainy sunday afternoon.
 

daf3m

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Oct 30, 2008
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Many comments,useful ideas and lots of information!

At this moment i feel little confused on whether to buy a 3D Mag-LED or a 4D Mag-LED for my 4D Maglite , because i am thinking of using 4 Ni-Mhs and in case of emergency 4 Alkalines .
Range 4.8 - 6 Volts make me think twice for the 3D version but i am afraid that the 4D would be slightly dim with 4.8V and below.

Also not to mention the 30 euro that each bulb costs around here...
I would appreciate any help can get..
 

LEDninja

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There are now 2 versions of the MagLED.

The older 3W version as discussed in this thread has been discontinued though may still be in some stores.
Flashlight reviews do not find much difference in output between the 3D and 4D.
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/maglite_mag-led.htm

There is not much discussion about the newer Rebel version as most CPF members are into smaller lights or super bright lights. Also the new MagLEDs do not use a PR2 bulb holder so are not easily upgradable.

If you are just looking for an upgrade bulb Terralux makes them too. Note 2-3 cell is TLE-6EXB and the 4-6 cell is TLE-6EX. Should be twice as bright as the Mag upgrade bulb.
http://www.terraluxcorp.com/terralux/Products/Portable/Upgrades/TLE6EX/tabid/84/Default.aspx
Terralux has European distribuers. Google (limited by region) is your friend.

Note both the Mag and Terralux upgrade bulbs drop to 1/2 output after about 10-15 minutes.
 

daf3m

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TLE-300M-EX would definately be my choise if i was willing to purchase something out of my country :)
My question remains as if the 3d circuitry could sustain 6V from 4 alkalines..
 
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