No, I guess I have to host images on the web elsewhere to post them here? I think that's too much of a hassle. I'll email it to you if you want. Since it doesn't show the IC's that are on the back side, I'm not sure it's very useful to you.
Another way is to use a 19v or 20v DC laptop charger to charge all 5 cells wired in series. If the cutoff voltage maximum is 4.2v/cell then 21volts is the absolute maximum for safety. Connect the laptop charger to the battery's main + & - and monitor each cell's voltage. 20 volts works out to be 4.0V/cell which although not a full 4.2v charge, it is substantial and you probably wouldn't notice the difference in days work.
I use a Kensington Universal Power adapter which can be set to any voltage from 0 to 24 volts, by changing the value of one 1 resistor. I set the voltage of the Power adapter to 1 volt above the battery's discharged voltage and increase it gradually during the first few minutes of charge. I then leave it over night with the charger at 20.5 v (4.1 v/cell) and get excellent performance.
If the cells become out of balance, as shown by the V monitor, charge all 5 to 4.2V, in turn, using the single cell charger.
One final consideration. Makita's chargers are fast. If an overnight charge isn't fast enough, then your are pretty much stuck frequently buying new batteries from Makita and using their chargers.
The cells in the two Graco packs are these: Model Number IMR18650BB
Which model of loose cells do you recommend for purchasing new and replacing all at once? The Samsung INR18650-20R you mentioned? I don't use this too often but I do like knowing it will work when I need it.
If you had a RC-charger, then you could try to charge and balance the cells before assembling the pack back together.
If you had a RC-charger, then you could try to charge and balance the cells before assembling the pack back together.
For anyone interested, I had the internal pc board brick 3 of my LXT batteries. The interesting part is the cells aren't bad. No need to replace any of them. The problem is they won't charge in the factory charger ever again. To my understanding if you try to charge with the makita charger 3 times the battery will never charge in the makita charger again. These batteries take a charge and hold a charge and are usable. They just won't charge because of the internal chip. For future reference if anybody has a dead battery, take a good battery and use jumpers from the good battery to the bad one and they will take a charge. I just use a couple of 10mm or (1/4" if they aren't 2 thick) washers slipped in the clips and alligator clips to jump. It takes only about 5 minutes to recharge them like this. They will read 17+ volts that quick and will charge in the factory charger then.
My question is.. I reverse the polarities right? I'll use the two non-star batteries and wire them positive on the good battery - to negative on the bad battery, is this correct?
hey everyone. I came across his forum when looking to replace 2 old 18v li-ion batteries, these are about 5 yrs old and age has gotten the better of them. I'm wondering if these have the chip in them, I don't think they do. I believe Milwaukee has a battery that is inter changeable, although I don't know how good it is for the battery. The way I see it, instead of spending $180 on new batteries, I'm going to buy a new tool set probably Milwaukee, replacing the 3 Makita tools I have. Any thoughts on a good replacement brand? Has anyone tried switching battery brands?
Hi all I'm new to all this,my query is that I rebuilt 1 of my batteries replacing some dead cells and fitted a new pcb board now when I put it on the charger it just flashes red as though the battery temp is to high sadly not charging but when I put the battery in one of my tools it runs fine I'm stumped