Malkoff MD4 Wildcat

I don't notice any flicker with my XP-G model.

Only when wiggling the head (whilst on low), but that would be more a conductivity thing.
 
On the Malkoff site, it says that the MD3 body will accept 6P Tailcaps. Anyone know if it will also accept 6P heads?

That way I could keep the Strike Bezel look.
 
On the Malkoff site, it says that the MD3 body will accept 6P Tailcaps. Anyone know if it will also accept 6P heads?

That way I could keep the Strike Bezel look.

No it won't. The threads are the same but the distances are completely different.
 
It uses a resistor for low. I've never noticed any flicker on my personal Wildcats with the same setup. Is anyone else noticing flicker?

Thanks, Gene

Thanks for clarifying gene.
I also seem to own the only Quark with PWM flicker. Maybe I'm really unlucky or more sensitive to flicker than other people.
 
Thanks for clarifying gene.
I also seem to own the only Quark with PWM flicker. Maybe I'm really unlucky or more sensitive to flicker than other people.


maybe its your batteries? Maybe there is something about them that they don't like holding a steady voltage under a lighter load and keep fluctuating. I know it sounds crazy and some people will probably tell me its ridiculous, but have you tried a completely different set of batteries of another type/brand?
 
It uses a resistor for low. I've never noticed any flicker on my personal Wildcats with the same setup. Is anyone else noticing flicker?

Thanks, Gene

I have not noticed any flicker on low - although it is on high most of the time....

I have a question - I understand that I can use 2 18500's in the MD3 body and 2 18650's in a MD4 body. Is there any advantage with the 18650's other than increased runtime over the 18500's?
 
maybe its your batteries? Maybe there is something about them that they don't like holding a steady voltage under a lighter load and keep fluctuating. I know it sounds crazy and some people will probably tell me its ridiculous, but have you tried a completely different set of batteries of another type/brand?

I use AW brand li-ion batteries which most people here use too. But the wildcat also flickers on the 3 x cr123 primary cells that came with the light once it's run down a little. Similar story with the quark; faster pwm with 2 x cr123 and slower PWM with 1 x 17670. But a couple of other people actually reported PWM with the quark too.

I was trying to think of some things that might be different over here in the UK. All I can think of is 240V input to the charger (but cr123 rules that out).
 
I have not noticed any flicker on low - although it is on high most of the time....

I have a question - I understand that I can use 2 18500's in the MD3 body and 2 18650's in a MD4 body. Is there any advantage with the 18650's other than increased runtime over the 18500's?

The increased runtime is basically it.
 
Why does the Moddoo triple xp-g have significantly higher lumen output?
 
I just got my MD4 tube today. AW 2600mAh 18650's give about 73% more capacity than the 1500mAh 18500's which is quite significant.

Note on using a surefire tailcap with above configuration: The distances are not quite the same so you end up crushing the battery contact a little when you screw it down to make contact. high/low becomes stiff too. I would recommend using some sort of a spacer like a split ring inside the switch to prevent this from happening. The SF tailcap reduces the overall length by about 1/2 cm but I think I'll just stick with the original tailcap.

The flickering while twisting the head is reduced with my new body so it's definitely a contact issue, and as FroggoTaco mentioned earlier, using deoxit on the end of the tube should improve that.
 
Note on using a surefire tailcap with above configuration: The distances are not quite the same so you end up crushing the battery contact a little when you screw it down to make contact. high/low becomes stiff too. I would recommend using some sort of a spacer like a split ring inside the switch to prevent this from happening.

Good idea adding a split ring. I used a washer to the tailcap to do the same thing after I had my M3 (SF) body bored for 18500's. SF body is just too short for two protected 18500's. Another solution is reducing the overall length of the tailcap spring.

Bill
 
Yes & I'm trying to make it 3, waiting to get an answer from Gene w/ an admin question.
 
Got my WildCat Gen 2 head today. Was anticipating this to see how it stacks up against my Gen 1 WC.

Wow! :faint:

The Gen 2 is most definitely an improvement, more spill, more throw, more lumens. Incredible.

It is really, really bright! The beam is just gorgeous coming out of the McLeish designed reflectors.

Some time soon, I will try a shoot out, Gen 1 WC vs. Gen 2 WC vs. Moddo triple XPG Dropin.
 
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