Malkoff MD60

[cland72]

Does anyone have beamshots of the MD60 vs MN15/16? I just ordered a M3T and I'm debating getting an MD60 for it.

 

[cland72]

So I got my MD60. How is the tint on everyone else's drop ins? Mine seems kinda yellowish compared to my MD10.

 

[Edwood]

Just got a new MD60 from Malkoff. Tint is awful. Spill is blue, the spot is a nasty greenish yellow. Ugh.

 

[cland72]

Just got a new MD60 from Malkoff. Tint is awful. Spill is blue, the spot is a nasty greenish yellow. Ugh.

Ditto. Sold mine.

Posted using Tapatalk on my HTC Evo

 

[mckeand13]

Just got a new MD60 from Malkoff. Tint is awful. Spill is blue, the spot is a nasty greenish yellow. Ugh.

Send it back.

Ive asked Gene a couple of times for a neutral driven quite hard and got a no each time. I wish he was willing to offer some LED choices as standard products so we weren't stuck with a crappy blue tint.

 

[Edwood]

I don't mind cooler tints, but cat **** green/yellow is just inexcusable.

I haven't had such a bad tint in an LED for a long time.

I emailed Gene and he sending a replacement. Hopefully it's much better. Gene responds nice and quick to emails.

-Ed

 

[ganymede]

Gentlemen,

A question regarding using the MD10 and MD60 in shock isolation Z46 (M3) and KT4 (M3T, M4, M6) heads. Since there is no larger outer spring, my understanding is that the MD10 and MD60 negative terminal (i.e. the body of the dropin) is pushed against the body of the light to complete the circuit by the spongy shock isolation foam under the lens. If the shock isolation foam degrades over time, would it cause intermediate connection problem? Also, would it be a slightly more reliable design to have a larger outer spring like the stock incan MN bulbs then the entire lamp assembly is "floating" with the shock isolation foam at the front and a large outer spring at the back?

Thanks!

 

[Lodogg2221]

I asked a similar question when I got my MD10. Gene said his concern with using a spring was that with extended use the drop in could overheat.
Im guessing the contact with the body is intended as a heat sink.
I asked because I found that a spring from one of my non-Surefire D26 drop-ins fit the MD10 perfectly, and the light functioned fine.

I suppose one could use foil or similar to improve heat transfer from the drop-in to the body, but Ive never done that and wouldnt know what would be best, so I went back to using the included spacer.

 

[jayflash]

I received a confusing reply from Gene when asking about using six CRC123 cells in my M6.

"The Dropin will work fine at those voltages. However, I would be leery of
using that many rechargeables together."

What's been the experience and advice from users of this drop-in? I'm trying to decide if I should get this or wait for the next, brighter, generation ... if it will even be produced at all. Any opinions?

 

[eh4]

Rechargeable lithiums start out at a bit higher voltage off the charger than non rechargeable lithium primary batteries, I believe that is what Mr. Malkoff was getting at... That many rechargeable lithium batteries could exceed the safe voltage for the circuit, maybe kill it quick or maybe kill it slow, I don't know.

 

[WarriorOfLight]

I received a confusing reply from Gene when asking about using six CRC123 cells in my M6.

"The Dropin will work fine at those voltages. However, I would be leery of
using that many rechargeables together."

Using six CR123 cells with the MD60 is no problem. I have the MD60 in my Surefire M6 and I use it with either 6 CR123 cells or two 18650 cells (oddmods battery carrier). both works perfect.
If you are using the dropin with 6 CR123 batteries the voltage is with fresh cells a little bit over 9V. The M6 has two strands of 3 cells in series that are parallel connected.
I would not use this dropin with 3x LiIon cells in series since the voltage may be too high when the cells are fresh. 3x4.2V=12.6V, the limit at Gene Malkoffs website is specified with 14V...

What's been the experience and advice from users of this drop-in? I'm trying to decide if I should get this or wait for the next, brighter, generation ... if it will even be produced at all. Any opinions?

The MD60 is great for a M3T or M6, since the proce dropped from $119 (I guess that was the original price ~6 month ago) to $89, this is a musthave for a M3T and M6 owner.
As I said I use this dropin in my M6 (and it also was in my M3T). The M6 is used with the original battery carrier and 6 CR123 or I use it with my oddmods battery carrier (2x18650). My M3T uses AW17500 cells since it is not bored. In both lights the MD60 works perfectly.

 

[ganymede]

Did he mention the long term effect of the dropin pushing against the shock isolation foam and causing unreliable connection?

Thanks.

I asked a similar question when I got my MD10. Gene said his concern with using a spring was that with extended use the drop in could overheat.
Im guessing the contact with the body is intended as a heat sink.
I asked because I found that a spring from one of my non-Surefire D26 drop-ins fit the MD10 perfectly, and the light functioned fine.

I suppose one could use foil or similar to improve heat transfer from the drop-in to the body, but Ive never done that and wouldnt know what would be best, so I went back to using the included spacer.

 

[jayflash]

"I would not use this dropin with 3x LiIon cells in series since the voltage may be too high when the cells are fresh. 3x4.2V=12.6V, the limit at Gene Malkoffs website is specified with 14V..."

That's what I'm confused about: 12.6v is below the 14v max limit. Not much difference @ 12.3, but I charge my CRC's to 4.1v so I wonder if that's safe?

I have the Maelstrom X10 with 640 lumens and it's in the ballpark with the M6 & MN21 lamp for brightness, but the incan has more flood better color rendition. How does the MD60 compare with the MN21? Thanks for helping me decide what to do: wait or pull the $89 trigger.

 

[cland72]

How does the MD60 compare with the MN21? Thanks for helping me decide what to do: wait or pull the $89 trigger.

As far as brightness up close, the MD60 floods light out the front of the M6, with throw that is about equal to most standard XPG's (my MD10 threw pretty similarly to my MD60, but the MD60 had much more spill/flood). As for color rendition, you're going to hate the MD60. The tint is pretty bad if you're a lover of neutrals and HCRI, so if you're a tint snob you may not like the MD60.

Here's an alternative if your goal is primarily using fewer batteries: get the PhD-M6 battery pack. It is around $150, takes 3x17670 li-ions, and will let you run a number of different MN-style bulbs with it's 4 voltage settings. I have this setup in my M6 and LOVE it. I get the incan throw and color rendition, but the lumens are guilt free.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-the-Black-Edition-PhD-M6-custom-battery-pack

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...impressions-on-the-PhD-M6-custom-battery-pack

 

[Edwood]

Only benefit of the MD60 is the long battery life vs. incandescant. Agree with the color tint being horrible. It's at best really yellow, but almost everyone comments that it's greenish yellow. It's been that way with the two MD60's I've seen in person.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

"I would not use this dropin with 3x LiIon cells in series since the voltage may be too high when the cells are fresh. 3x4.2V=12.6V, the limit at Gene Malkoffs website is specified with 14V..."

That's what I'm confused about: 12.6v is below the 14v max limit. Not much difference @ 12.3, but I charge my CRC's to 4.1v so I wonder if that's safe?

The MD60 works fine with 3X Li-Ions (4.2V X3). I have used that many with my MD60. Gene recommends it with 4XCR123's (M4) which is actually 3.25V X4 at startup.

Bill

 

[Lodogg2221]

Did he mention the long term effect of the dropin pushing against the shock isolation foam and causing unreliable connection?

Thanks.

No, nothing mentioned. Id assume its not an issue, as the factory drop in pushes against it too. Its pretty tough stuff.
Could be too that no one has used one long enough to have problems, or know if problems would arise.

Again, I dont think it will be an issue....but I guess we cant ever be 100% certain.

 

[ganymede]

No, nothing mentioned. Id assume its not an issue, as the factory drop in pushes against it too. Its pretty tough stuff.
Could be too that no one has used one long enough to have problems, or know if problems would arise.

Again, I dont think it will be an issue....but I guess we cant ever be 100% certain.

Thank you sir! Much appreciated.

 

[thejrod]

I just received my MD60 yesterday - My first Malkoff product BTW.

Compared to the MN15 bulb, the MD60 is significantly brighter (as expected, 125lm to 450lm). The hotspot on the MD60 is small, precise and perfectly round (unlike the incan MN15, which is oblong). There's definitely much much more spill from the MD60.
Interestingly, the spill from the MD60 is a nice cool white, but the hotspot does have a warmer, almost slightly greenish tint - definitely a byproduct of the SureFire reflector.

I did a quick comparison (perhaps unfairly) to my other recent acquisition: a P60 w/ a Nailbender XM-L @ ~800lm. The Nailbender P60 was a better roomlighter - brighter spill (but not as wide) and larger hotspot. I say unfair because at nearly double the lumens overall, the P60 was better at anything under about 15-20m. Beyond that however, the MD60 proved to be better. The throw was impressive.

In short: The MD60 has exceptional build quality. I'd have no reservations about mounting it up to my rifle and firing away. It can be used as a room lighter, but it really comes into its own outdoors with a little distance. The greenish tint from the reflector is more noticeable indoors - outdoors it's actually not very noticeable, and just seems like a warmer light.

 

[mckeand13]

I got an email from Gene around mid August '12 stating that "The next run of MD60's will be higher output (575 lumens sustained, 600+ at turn on)."

I see that hasn't changed on his website yet though.... I wonder when?

The XM-L2 should make this drop in a bit nicer as well!